20 Most Recent
1990 Audi V8 Quattro Questions & Answers
My 1998 Audi A6 has
You should have it scanned for fault codes to narrow down cause rather than replacing parts at random
Starter removal 1990 audi quattro v8
1990 Audi V-8 Quattro 3.6L DOHCStarter, removing and installing Disconnect battery NEGATIVE cableDisconnect wiring from battery to starter and starter to alternator (large terminal)Disconnect terminal 50 (small wire to ignition/starter switch)Remove starter mounting screws on engine/transmissionNOTE: Remove upper bolt on starter by guiding 10 mm Allen socket with extension and flex fitting through opening on transmission housing over final driveRemove starter motor assemblyReverse procedure to install
When the heater is on, the humidity seems to be
There are 3 possibilities, all would be moisture in the car that shouldn't be. 1st. rain entering the vehicle 2. heater core leaking 3. plugged drain tube for a/c causing condensation to flow into vehicle. To fix, 1st check carpeting for evidence of water. The heater core and a/c drain tube would make it wet at the front passenger seating area (where your feet would be). If it was the heater core, you would detect the 'sweet' smell of antifreeze. If you aren't using the a/c, that isn't it. If it's rain water, find the wet area to determine about where the entry point is. It could be a door gasket, windshield gasket, leak at the cowl (between the hood and windshield-check for build up of debris inside, which can rot through, and leak. Good luck
Im looking at buying a
Sounds like you should figure the price of a new transmission or a rebuild into the price of the car before you buy.
Left front passenger side cv joint for 1990
Can be a messy job. Is the flexible rubber boot over surrounding the joint split and spewing forth oily muck. Remove wheel cover and bearing oil cap in the middle. slacken the wheel bearing nut a turn or so. Jack the car until the wheel is off the ground and remove the wheel. Remove the bearing nut and push (tap with wooden block the drive shaft inwards to disconnect it from the hub. Try turning the steering wheel if the shaft does not go back all the way to allow the stub to be released. You may have to undo the track rod end to give you extra clearance. Remove the split boot (gaiter) and wash the bearing clean of all oil and dirt with petrol so that you can inspect it thoroughly. The stub axle should also come free of the tripod ended drive shaft. If the metal shows bad signs of wear you will need to replace the bearing assembly. Repair kits for the replacement of boots contain packs of appropriate grease. To get the boot on easily you will need to have access to a boot cone tool. The wide end fits over the joint with the narrow end away from it. Lube the end of the narrow end of the boot and slip it over the narrow end of the cone. By forcing it along the cone the narrow end spreads wide enough to clear the joint and sit back down on the drive shaft. Fill the joint with new grease and seal the boot ends with a crimping tool. Wear neoprene gloves at all times as this is one filthy job
1991 audi v8 quattro
i would check the throttle butterfly for a carbon build up that may keep it from closing completely. have seen this cause stalling when returning to idle rpm. Best to try to remove and clean from both sides to get good results.this is just one of many possible problems. Hope it helps if so please let me know with a reply and good luck
THE LOW BEAMS BOTH WENT AT SAME TIME AND WHEN
things are never as simple as we wish. locate first the fuze for the headkights and see if it has current on both sides.with the key on, if ok suspect the highbeam dimmer switch or the headlight switch if high and low beams dont work.
Car developed a problem where it would not start
It could be the Ignition Timing Sensor G4. These things develop a cold joint problem ; they open the coil circuit with increased temperature and are ok when cold.They eventually fail completely. I had this problem recently on two cars and so did my brother on his V8Q some time ago. You can remove the sensor and connect a Ohm-meter on it. It should have about 1000 Ohm resistance. Then heat it up with a heat gun to about 100C or 212F(carefully, just the body) and watch the resistance. If the sensor is faulty it will open (very high resistance), if it is good, the resistance will just go to about 1200 Ohm. I've repaired three of them but for most of people it would be better to buy a new one
Not finding what you are looking for?