20 Most Recent 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Page 5 Questions & Answers

there were issues with distributors on this particular body style grands with the 6 cyl and pick up coils in the 8 cyl

Thermostats are used to keep the engine operating in the optimum temperature range. Generally speaking, it is safe to remove the thermostat in summer conditions. Coolant will flow continuously with no restriction. In winter months and below freezing conditions the engine may not reach proper operating temperature. Removing the thermostat may help you find the possible over-heating problem.

Running / Park Lamps are controlled by a BCM body control module and park lamp relay ,located in the junction block . The dash lights are also controlled by BCM . The BCM receive a voltage input from the headlamp switch ,then it turns on a driver (transistor) that turns on the dash lights . Before getting to involved and taking the dash apart looking for the BCM , Have it check for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes in the BCM . Your going to have to take to a repair shop for that . Your best bet would be to take it to a qualified repair anyway .

Could be that you created a open circuit ! Check it out on you tube !

Try removing the negative battery cable, for about 3 minutes . Then reconnect . That should do it ! Check it out on you tube !

Pull the dip stick for the oil , its probably over full ! The reason is that you have a bad head gasket ! So water / coolant are mixed with the oil !

The most likely fault is a bad ignition switch. The electrical portion of your ignition switch has probably failed...well, only part time failure, jiggling the switch on and off will cause it to make contact again. Everything you say that doesn't work, should be working just by turning the key to on. Are you looking beyond the switch for something not triggering? Don't make it too complicated: switch on, and the pcm should be powered up (along with dash gauges being on and the check engine light is on.) That means you should now see that voltage at the ASD relay, as it is now "on" and power is going to the coil and to the injection system. Your switch is the only thing tying everything together. If it doesn't work, nothing else works. This sure sounds like the electrical portion of the switch, not the lock cylinder portion, but examine carefully. Some ignitions have a metal rod from the lock cylinder to the electrical portion where the rod moves a sliding bar across different electrical contacts. Sometimes this mechanical linkage can foul up and cause switch problems.

NO ENGINE STATED, NO TRANSMISSION STATED, STRIKE 2, NO DTC STATED, STRIKE 3...... SORRY, BUT ???? the 1 bolt sensor , must be calibrated, removing the sensor wrecked the calibration, and the sensor then gets smashed, (1 of the 4 kinds do that) what code,??? I cant help you lacking that. nobody can. DTC errors what are the or what where they, forgot them? the new sensor, from the dealer has the calibration pad on it. after market not, and is sold separate none jeep, causes that new sensor to smash into the fly flex plate, and wreck it. (CKP wrecked) here is the offical jeep pages, on that. SEE CKP FROM H3LL HERE. http://jeepdied.com/Misfire101.html#ckp4 SEE THOSE 4 ENGINE, AND TRANS MIXES?????? FIGURE 7 IS THE SELF DESTRUCTING SENSOR. if this is yours, and now the end of it is wrecked get new one, and use a .030" inch think spacers, and glue it on the end. it will wipe off on first start and bam, its now perfect. if no DTCs .using a real scan tool? or the mostly lame key on/off/on 3 times trick. this key jive way is weak, as it will not see many errors.!!! the key on way, can also miss , CKP and CMP errors when you key off and engine, the key off can reset some very important errors, like P034xx p035x or any P03xx errors. why not tell your DTCS, ???? above is on USA cars, not outside.....

Fuel pump intermittent, check for fuel pressure before dropping the tank to renew pump. Otherwise check electrical connection at battery, and make sure you do not have an open circuit. Loss of connectivity could cause this issue, failed fuel pump sometimes work, but are not reliable. You should see 30-45 psi at fuel rail, and the regulator should bump pressure 5 psi when reving the motor. Higher pressure indicates failed regulator.

why not ask a real question above says NEED, and nothing else. must I had the how word for you?> or who can, or what meterials or who does it best, try real questions as nobody here can read minds. so what is the question, and YOU must? YOU NEED TO>>>>> on all cars, made same answer , water cooled engines 1:drain system. 2: remove old hose. such that nippples are not damage, i cut them off, if they show any signs of stubbornness. 3: then put it back and set the clamps. 4: refill system. at rad neck, hole cap off. rad. do so slowing with 50% coolant only.engine off for sure !!! at first fill. 5: burp it so no air remains in the system this is the key part and most hard for all those never done the before. do so completely i can now write a wall of text here, and refuse... its in here 10000 times as is on google an youtube. endlessly,

If the hood latch is broken, the best thing is to replace it. You can get a new in ebay, or a junkyard.

Your VIC doesn't provide you with codes per se, it supplies other information and what you describe here is what should be written on your VIC, "Coolant Sensor Bad." The actual Coolant Sensor runs to your PCM or computer and your check engine light will come on if it runs at or above 5 volts or below 0.1 volts. If the red square on the vehicle layout is illuminated under the hood area, it means that your Coolant Recovery jug is either low on anti-freeze or the sensor next to the yellow filler cap is faulty...meaning you're low on Coolant and the VIC says that the "Coolant Sensors Bad" yet it's the amount of fluid in the plastic bottle next to the passenger side firewall, right in front of your PCM or computer. If you're low on anti-freeze, keep an eye on it, or have the coolant system pressure tested...including the 18 pound cap on the radiator itself. Also check the two wires hooked to the Coolant LEVEL Sensor in the jug with an Ohmmeter and it should be an open circuit if the level is fine, or hardly any Resistance if the level is low, causing that circuit to complete it's ground circuit and thus signaling the VIC through your BCM to turn on. (Body Control Module). The Haynes Manual you will need is # 50025 which encompasses all Jeep Grand Cherokee's from 1993 thru 2004.

~Stillin~

all cars are fixed by humans, computers only tools of the humans. totally until SkyNet takes over, sadly. no code posted, sad, no? nor engines size and is a engine question. case in point a v6 has 2 banks and one or both banks can go lean. we'd need all codes stored, no just one if more than one. then we check to see if all cylinder are acting up or just 1. or one bank, see? its called diagnosis, we use tools meters , gauges and scan tools to do all that.

define power. 1: can't hear buzz? 2: fuel pressure at the fuel rail is zero PSI cranked. 3: my volt meter tells me the pump has 0vdc across the pump pins cranked? I cant guess any of this and is 100 %^ Germain.

Here's a link Horace on replacing your ignition switch. Repair Guides Steering Ignition Switch AutoZone com

At the radiator, locate the large upper hose. Follow it to the engine. Where it connects to the engine, that is the thermostat housing.

the 4.0L engine? is this engine cold or hot. why is 2000 rpm wrong for 60mph., (depends on engine and axle size and what gear you were in , then) the idle speed for hot is too high did you scan the PCM yet? if hot , idle is high, is the thermostat holding water temp 180f or above. ? if not that is the problem.