2001 Chevrolet Silverado - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Passenger side even 2 4 6 8 driver side odd 1 3 5 7

Instrument cluster ,it's not really running hot . Did you use an LCD Infrared Thermometer, Laser Sighting: Dual, -58° to 1472° Temp. Range to see actual temp of the engine , hook up a scan tool that can view coolant temp sensor data . What does it show engine temp is , does the PCM - engine computer energize the cooling fan ? Your best bet , take it to a qualified repair shop .

Does it have a amplifier ?

Hello Richard, There doesn't appear to be a freeze plug on the front of the block. They are always located on the lower sides of the block. If you can see water on the front of the engine do a visual inspection when the motor is off and cold. Take a rag and dry off any noticeable moisture. Start the engine and let it warm up, carefully check all the areas listed below to see if you can isolate the leak. The radiator could be leaking and dispersing coolant towards the motor while driving the car. A hose or fitting could be leaking. The intake manifold or thermostat gasket could be leaking. The water pump could be leaking at higher RPM's.

indicates a problem hydraulic follower or cam lobe problem Best have it properly diagnosed first as followers are cheaper and noises are costly problem indicators if left unheeded

Try a bit longer belt and adjust tension so it reaches pulley

Is it on recirculate or fresh aor? Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_a14a43e01fd0835a

Yeah. Ring gear and pinions are a matched set. They both get replaced at the same time. You have to get the pinion depth and the backlash set properly also.

GM installs wiring harnesses and fuse blocks configured according to the original options for the vehicle. While the fuse block may have a spot for the relay, that doesn't mean the wiring is installed under the block for it, and that presents a problem as contacts in the block are pressed in and wired for specific options, and may be missing for this option in your truck. Even though you may have the fog light wires to connect to the relay and there is a place for the relay in the fuse block, there may not be the necessary relay socket connectors installed and they are almost impossible to retrofit (although you can try if the fog light wires you have also have the correct connector on the ends). You can check if all necessary relay socket connectors are installed, and if so, you could try to figure out which wire is installed for the connection you are trying to make, and connect the purple wires to that wire. Otherwise, you may have to install the relay away from the block, and then make the necessary wiring connections (power, ground and output) to it.

Pulling the dash out to expose the blend door isn't easy. Check for a cracked or missing vacuum hose on the intake manifold.

I would say it's bad contacts in the ignition switch. Metals change dimensions depending on temperature, looks like 45 degrees is the trick point for whatever is in there. My 04 Silverado 5.3 with 196,000 has the ticking, but it is gone within 10-15 seconds.

My 2001 did the same thing when I shifted to drive or reverse. What I found is the pivot ball that connects shift cable to transmission had rusted off. I removed broken pieces then used 1/4 inch bolt double nutted to trans lever. Never had the problem again

Probably forward clutches if you only have first and second gear transmission needs to be rebuilt

you should have 4 freeze plugs on the block 2 on each side

Injjection spider failure is a common issue on. The 5.9 and 5.7 and i think also the 6.0. And causes a misifre. So can a bad plug or wire. I would start by replacing plug, wire, coil etc. First as that is easiest and cheapest.

My truck had the same issue and from I have read, it is pretty common. I just felt the heater hoses under the hood. If there is one hot and one cold, with the engine running and the heater set to maximum, rapidly squeeze and release the hot hose for about fifteen seconds.I just did this to my truck and it "Burped" the heater core. I got instant LAVA HOT air!! I hope this helps.

It just unbolts and pulls out.

No Reverse

Checks

Cause

Case (7)

The rear band anchor pin is broken or the pin is not positioned.

Center Support (640)

Leaking at the case, or the support is broken.

Center Support Seal (639)

Leaking

Center Support Bolt (25) ?€¢ The bolt is loose or broken. ?€¢ The feed hole is blocked.

Rear Band (657)

Broken, worn, or not anchored

Rear Band Apply Pin (73)

The pin is too short or the pin is binding in the case.

Piston (65)

Binding in the case

Seal (66)

Leaking, damaged, or worn

Gasket (63)

Damaged or displaced

Cover (62)

Damaged

Bolts (61)

Broken, loose, or missing

Checkball

Missing

Fluid Pressure

Too low

Direct Clutch Components

Reaction Plates (618)

The splines are worn.

Friction Plates (611)

The splines or the friction are worn.

Spring Assembly (607)

Jammed

Housing (623)

Cracked

Piston (619)

Leaking

Seal (620, 621, 622)

Leaking

Ball Check

Leaking

Assuming you have checked the fuse to the pump and the wiring is good then you need to check the fuel pump relay. It is on the firewall under the hood and cover by a black cover on the passenger side. It will be the large square relay attached to the grounding block.

There should be a diagram on the lid / cover of the fuse box showing which fuse is for what component. If none show the cigarette lighter fuse, it may have its own inline fuse. This is shaped like a bullet and clips together and will be on the power supply lead to the lighter.