20 Most Recent 1999 Volkswagen Golf Questions & Answers

NO 1999 CAR RUNS GOOD NOW, UNLESS KEPT UP. it needs service and a tune up. does irregularly mean engine misfire? (spark plugs 24 years old is a hopeless act) no country or VIN told so what is there, iv'e no clue. no engine told and is and engine problem i guess. guess cold misfire, and RPM is what 8900 to say 1500? or 500rpm with egr stuck open or IAC stuck closed.

hi there i need wiring diagram for polo 2000 1.4 16v auto please help

many thanks

Check with your local auto parts store. Or buy a repair manual

Are the rear calipers already fitted? I will assume not 1) open the hood and locate the brake master cylinder and brake reservoir. Open the filler cap. Put a piece of polythene Supermarket bag will across the opening and tighted the filler cap over it. This will provide a vacuum seal to the reservoir to prevent too much brake fluid loss whilst working on the brakes. 2) Jack up one of the rear wheels and remove it. Loosen by half a turn the flexible brake hose union in the old caliper. Put a piece of towel on the ground beneath the brake assembly to catch any brake fluid. About midway along the hose pinch it closed. It is very important that you use something rounded on both sides to do this to prevent damaging the hose. A self clamping wrench has jaws that are too sharp for the job. If you have a couple of drill bits of about 8mm to 10mm in diameter that you can put one either side of the tube and then set the self clamping wrench to squeeze these on to the hose with moderate force; enough to prevent fluid loss. Slacken now the brake fluid bleed screw in the caliper. Put a broad blade screw driver between the disc and the face of the brake pad and twist to lever the caliper pistons back into the body of the caliper. As you do so brake fluid will be forced out the slackened bleed screw. Remove the brake pads when suitably slackened. Undo the two very large bolts that secure the caliper body to the hub assembly of the car and lift it free. The following process avoids the need of disturbing the top brake pipe union: taking the weight of the caliper in the hand it should be possible to unscrew it from the previously loosened end of the brake hose union end as if it were a massive nut. 3) Fitting the new caliper is matter of again taking its weight in the hand and screwing it on to the brake hose union end. Do it only hand tight initially. Put a light smear of copper ease grease on the back of each pad...do not contaminate the disc or pad face. Copperease between the caliper piston faces and the pad backs prevents brake squeal. Some new pads are supplied with an anti squeal compound to be smeared on the pad backs in which case the Copperease can be omitted. Slip the brake pads into the caliper body and also fit the bleed screw finger tight. Fit the caliper with pads over the disc the disc and insert the mounting bolts. Tighten the large mounting bolts to the specified torque (very very tight). Tighten the hose union end with a spanner and take off the improvised hose clamp. Tighten the bleed screw moderately. 4) Under the hood remove the polythene temporary seal from under the reservoir filler cap. Pump the brake pedal slowly until some resistance is felt. Check the fluid reservoir level and if low top it back up to max. 5)With a 'helper' do the following: have them press on the brake pedal. Undo the caliper bleed screw about a quarter of turn to let the air out and then re- tighten it again. Your helper should only now allow the brake pedal up slowly. Have them press on the pedal again. Again loosen off the bleed screw fractionally to expel air bubbles. Keep repeating this process until brake fluid emerges for some time with absolutely no sign of air bubbles. Your helper should also report that the brake pedal feels hard. Make sure the caliper pitons have extended and that the pads have been pressed hard onto the disc. Tighten the bleed screw securely. 6) Check the reservoir under the hood, the level may have gone down, if so top it up to the max line with brake fluid. 7) repeat steps 1 to 6 on the other side of the car.
As a final check ensure that no polythene has been left beneath the reservoir cap and that the cap is refitted. Check that all clamps have been removed, that brake hose unions, bleed screws and caliper mounting bolts are all tight and that the brake pedal action reaches a point of hard resistance when stood on. Any signs of springy softness in the brakes means that there is still air left in the system that will need further bleeding. Ensure everything is clean and that nothing is leaking. Job done

sometimes it can be found on the radio casing but the best bet is to take your car to your local dealership and they can use the VIN nimber of the vehicle to track down the radio code

Hi.

Check the wiring to the igniter on driver side.If the wiring is OK, then the igniter may be faulty.

See this disagnostic page from Ross.

my citi golf 1.4 have a problem of pick up an if you accelerate it take a long time to respond.what can be the main cause of this problem.please help me

is it ur turbo or are u missfiring?

check the injectors first as the rest will not make smoke from over fueling could be a leaking injector or injector seals

actuators working on all four locking module could be out of sequence after the one door repaired drop the vw back into the place where the door lock was replaced get them to explain

1999 Volkswagen Golf Workshop Repair Service Manual PDF Download I hope your problem will be solved :))