20 Most Recent 1989 Chevrolet Corvette Questions & Answers

The starter is located on the passenger side where the engine mates with the transmission. It's held on by two bolts and there are wire harness that need to be disconnected and are live so you need to disconnect the battery ground first. Good luck and hope this helps. Keep me posted if you need instructions to removing the starter or you can log on to Auto Zone and register free of charge and you can get a print out on how to get the job done with common tools. Be safe friend. 

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to Corvette sub category. Removing one of the fuses disconnected the anti theft module. https://www.google.com/search?q=1989+Chevy+Corvette+reset+security ..

You have wasted a lot of money buying stuff that is not needed. Check the pulses from the crank shaft sensor.

Sounds like you have spark but no injector pulse. This can be from the throttle position sensor showing that the throttle is wide open, which shuts off the fuel to clear a flood situation. The easy way to check this is unplug it. If the car starts its the sensor. There are 2 wires on the injector. One is key on battery voltage the other goes to the ecm. You can buy a light called a noid light to plug into the injector plug and it should flash if you have injector pulse. If no pulse check ignition module in the distributor. If not that re-post and we can go from there. Have a nice day and good luck!

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-tech-performance/3059317-89-fuel-pump-relay-and-fuse-problem.html

Check your fuel pressure it should be 40-47 with the key and engine off and 30-44 with engine running.If its not within these specs then replace the fuel pump and filter.

check the vacume pipes for leaks and cracks. Im hoping this is the engine as there is a number of different engines codes. but any sensor like air intake sensor or map sensor will need cleaning if it has bee stud as the dust will settle and stick to them, then engine will not get right information, also check the timing as a belt stud in the same place for a long time can stretch and even mold to the engine a can cause timing to be out. any engine that has been stud for long time even 5 years is a long time to be stud, will need an oil change and filters, if the spark plug leads are hard or crispy they will need replacing they should be soft and be able to wiggle. Iv heard of seafoam being used on an engine not been run for 10 years and that seam to clean out all the hard build up in the engine, but there is others you can use, but you need one that will be able to be sucked into the engine by the intake. injectors can stick or be clocked with old fuel residue. idle controller will probably need cleaning out aswell, use carb cleaner, MAF/MAP sensor needs a made for cleaner MAF has its own cleaner and is only for the MAF would thing carb cleaner would be fine for the map sensor, spray it inside and shack out again do this a few times. just to make sure its clean and any muck is out.

Fuel injectors cleaning ! How to Diagnose Test and Clean Dirty Clogged or Bad Fuel Injectors

The dist. is a half tooth off location. Pull the dist. an reset timing. Be sure #1 cyl. is at the top and the rotor is pointing to #1 in the cap. or firing order.

Sounds like wiring harness going to that side. Wouldn't be in column if brake lights don't work either.

replace the coolant temp sensor, not the coolant temp sending unit

Linkage inside door may have come unconnected. There are small clips that hold this stuff together.

Check the hazard switch may be sticking

Hi there I am a mechanical technician engineer I fix the things normal mechanic cant! I fix mechanical and electric problem no matter what it is the problem with it!!!I I am very good and bless in my work I am 5gen mechanical engineering technician never have a problem I can not fix check out the grounds and the map sin.it may be taken in air also I would check out the throttle body and the throttle sin

Sounds like ignition control module (small plastic piece in bottom of distributor). When it gets warm it's shorting out. Easy fix, disconnect battery, pull cap & rotor - gin module is 2 screws in bottom of distributor and 4 wires - replace wires in exact order and coat bottom of middle with dielectric grease, replace rotor, cap & connect battery NEGATIVE CABLE LAST!

Am I missing something or is everyone answering the wrong question?
If I am reading this right you are having problems in your instrument cluster in your dash not being lit up on one side, correct?
If so it is most likely a burnt out bulb or two.

Yes. On the key you will see a chip. It is surrounded by black plastic that holds it to the key. Use an OHM meter and put the leads to each side of the resistor/chip/key. This gives the resistance. But i would unplug the ignition wire(under the dash) and put a resistor in it's place. A hundred dollar key, compared to 2 dollars.

Bulbs. Remove the bezel (I'm sure it is screwed On, find them), remove the instrument panel(definitely screwed on), remove the plug. replace the bulbs.

most likely fuel injectors are failing