20 Most Recent 1987 Chevrolet Corvette Questions & Answers

The ignition module located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil. A faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

sorry cant help you do not have book on wiring for this

l reckon the selector has worn. It might be time to take it down to your local mechanic for a checkup...

(What Type Tranny Please? Also Vettes Have Big Blocks And small Blocks And of Course Different Trannys as i have had Many Vettes More Info Please as (we Are Here To Help !! ) Best, It Could Be Multiple Issues tranny fluid burnt filter needs to be changed etc more info on this issue and we would be more then happy to help you !!

Depends how good the "new" engine is? and what you have to transfer off the old engine onto the new one. with an engine hoist and a level surface you should have no problem. Like for like engine swaps are easy. it's upgrades that cause all the headaches.

I, feel sorry for you, after reading your problem, but don't worry you visit the Reliable-Store they will help you for sure. Best Manuals

It's telling you that the red wire is number 5 wire on the wiring diagram or the number 8 wire in the harness is white.

Check the sensors that tell the relay to shut off when the lights close down all the way. This is a fairly common problem especially if this has never been replaced before.

no crank, it called. what lights come on, there are like 30 lights or more. HL, parking, dash , warning, dome, tail, stop. blinkers and dimmer dash lights. to name but a few. sounds to me like , custom alarm, and is acting up. but id need to sit in the cockpit to see whats' really going on. all gas engines eveny back in mid 80s, or model A ford the starter can be hot wired or jumper cable cranked. see that tiny lug on the solenoid , so if jumper cables fail. (off running car) sill dead? then you next hot wire the starter solenoid tiny lug fails to crank, ? then hit the side of starter with a hammer crank now>? ok , hot wiring the solenoid (key is pocket) the starter turns the crankshaft over fast, the starter and battery are working now. so what is wrong this is called the KEY line. the KEY line is dead. my wild guess, is aftermarket alarm installed and its breaking the key line, like many do.

Could be a faulty temperature sensor, at wost it's going to be a bad head gasket or intake manifold. Sorry for the bad news and hope that it's just a faulty temp sensor.

Thank you for using fixya and check your engine oil to make sure there is no coolant mixing in with your engine oil. Coolant is corrosive to your engine's internal bearings.

Does the vehicle start? If not you might want to check the cat converter on the exhaust. If the back pressure is to great on the engine the cylinders will not be able to get fuel.

There's are two stickers on the top of the radiator. There is one at the filler cap that shows the pulley and belt arrangement and the other one shows the routing of the emission hoses with charcoal canister.

try replacing the required fuses as they are the first things to fail as that is what they are designed to do if overloaded etc which when they do so they are protecting the rest of the wiring throughout the vehicle, if this does not correct the roblem a trained professional will be able to assist you.

Well its a american muscle car and no doubt the bushes are worn somewhere,its the drivers fault as a muscle car can only do straight lines ,and not bends like a europeon sports car and it looks like someone has tried to do the dreaded bends with a american car causing the bushes to wear out .boy do i love winding up you americans about this -----till i watched top gear last week and hey a new stingray out with rear wheel drive only but all new suspension in carbon fibre on a race track against a porsche with 4x4 and guess what the stingray won ,no sliding or anything in fact it was the porsche that was slipping .and its its 20.000 GBP cheaper than anything else near it mainly the F type jag ,but then your talking different class with a JAGUAR ,i know i have one

It is impossible to do on that car without unbolting the seats from the chassis and removing the motor assembly from the seat frame (which will allow the seat to move around freely until you re-mount the motor assembly). The motors on that car are VERY robust, and can usually be revived with some penetrating oil. Whatever you do, you are going to need to REMOVE THE SEATS to accomplish it. Best of luck to you!