20 Most Recent 2006 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 2WD - Page 9 Questions & Answers

1. Test the voltage going to your battery using a multimeter. The voltage should be around 14.3-14.6 volts when running. This would mean your alternator is working fine.
2. If the voltage is around 12 or less, you should check your Alternator fuse, and the wiring leading to your alternator.
3. At the alternator, measure the voltage going to the main power wire/post for 12 volts with the engine off. Is the voltage equal to battery positive voltage (B+)? If not, repair the circuit.
   
4. If your alternator is charging correctly, you may have a faulty instrument cluster, or a short in the wiring.
5. Inspect the Battery case, posts, hold-down clamp, cables and connections for damage.
6. Inspect the Generator drive (serpentine) belt for condition and tension to make sure there is no slip between the belt and the pulley.
7. Inspect the Generator pulley.
8. Check the operation of the charging system warning indicator in the instrument cluster. Normal operation is as follows:

• With the key off, the charging system warning indicator should be off.
• With the key on and the engine off, the charging system warning indicator should be on.
• With the engine running, the charging system warning indicator should be off.

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

Eng light needs to be reset w/ OBII scanner. Any good parts store like Autozone, Advance, etc... can do it for you and FREE. If it comes back on, you have a fault that's triggering light.

I know it is federal law that the body be covered under warranty for rust for a period of five years. This may extend to the rims as well. Contact your states consumer authority or the FTC to find out more about the rust warranty. Information about the rust warranty can also be found in the vehicle owners manual.

If the tires are wearing on both sides and not the centers, instead of just one side per tire then the tires are under-inflated. Inflate to the proper psi.
If the tires are wearing only on one side, ie, left side tires wear on the left side, right side tires wear on the right side or vice versa, then the alignment is off, adjusting the camber may fix the problem.

Sounds like your u-joists are dry and if they're dry they should be greased or replaced . There also could be a rock or some other object in your rear brake.

If they have been spin balanced properly, then the wheels and/or tires are out of round or you have a bent rim. The right way to check this is to use a dial indicator and measure the runout of the tire and the rim. A good tire shop should have the equipment to measure this. There is always some radial runout (difference in distance between the center of rotation and the outer surface, both on the tire and on the wheel). When the tires are mounted on the rims, If the high spots of the tires happen to be aligned with the high spots of the rims, this makes the total runout worse. If the high spots of the tires are aligned with the low spots of the rims, the total runout is better. There is a limit on how much runout is acceptable to give a smooth ride. The tire shop should also measure lateral runout, which is the side-to-side variation in the wheel as it spins, or "wobble". If excessive, this would be a sign of a bent rim. Also, with the vehicle jacked up so the weight is off the wheels, you should check for any looseness in the suspension and bearings, which can also cause vibration.

Now if your refering to power for teh ignition switch then i would look inside the power distribution box under the bonnet near the battery and inside this box you should find some big 80 amp fuses or similar and these these fuses even if not blown could have corroded legs and contacts ,possible even the power cable coming from the battery could be corroded at the battery terminal .

It is up under the truck and mounted right beside the front of the gas tank

The connection at the blower resistor on these model years had problems with poor connections.
The increased resistance on the terminals caused them to heat up and burn. Some would go open circuit and not work at all and some would short to ground and run all the time, like yours.
As you have already discovered, you will need to replace the pieces.

Putting the parking brake cable back on the new shoe is a PAIN IN THE A**. I have had some success using a pair of small vise grips. Trick is to get the end of the cable out as far as possible, then clamp it. I don't know of any special tool.

Hello
Unfortunately you most have a problem with the flex-plate (flywheel on manual transmissions) it is either bent or cracked (common) or the teeth on the flex-plate are damaged or both, it is the only thing that causes this problem other than the starter drive being defective, and since you indicated the starter has been replaced and the problem still exists then the flex-plate is the problem. To change the flex-plate the transmission must be removed from the truck, to do this disconnect the negative battery cable then remove the starter and support the transmission with a floor jack, then remove the drive shaft from the truck, next remove the wire connector to the transmission and the shift cable and the transmission cooler lines, drop the rear mount that supports the transmission and move it out of the way, remove the lower cover over the flex-plate and remove the bolts that secure the flex plate to the Torque Converter (you will need to rotate the engine to get the bolts out) next lower the rear of the transmission down far enough to see and remove the bolts that secure the transmission to the engine block, make sure in on last check that all is disconnected from the transmission and drop the transmission down and pull it out from under the car, install the new flex plate and torque the bolts to 45 foot pounds, use new bolts.

cold weather will cause drag but might want to think about replacing stater soon..it is not suppose to do that under normal conditions

Mostlikely it would damage the actuator and not the transfer case.

Check the idler pully. They are usually one that are bad, or replace the belt with a good year gator-back. They are more expensive, but worth it.

shift motor on transfer case is a common problem....but you will need to have it scanned to be sure...

I am sure you have a internal cluster problem on this vehicle. real common. the cluster will need to be replaced and programmed at the dealer. alot of these clusters problems are being repaired under warranty. you will we need to contact your local chevy dealer for some more info.

If you find my solutions helpful,
please rate me so that others will know that my information is good.

Joshua,
check to see if you have a loose belt, either the alternator belt,power steering belt or water pump belt,,, if loose - adjust to the proper tension.
also, check to make sure you do have power steering fluid in the power steering pump,, but since you said that the sound goes away then I would say that it is in fact a belt issue.

c...