2000 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

tail lights not working

what code is check engine lite giving

Fix your car right away, by clicking the link 2000 Chevy

replace no 2 injector and check the wires for that injector

You can try resetting the radio by removing power from it for a few minutes, reconnecting it and trying again. However, it sounds like an internal electronics problem that will either require a repair or replacement.

was vehicle placed into neutral before trying to change---is transfer case filled with fluid--check and test or lube actuator

Check the fuel pressure at the engine and plugs for spark (ignition module).

need a scanner

Random would be a broken wire. Read the codes to see which side. GM put hard plastic coverings over the wheel sensor wires. Follow it back, while bending and see where it is broken. Most likely the wire is broke there also. It could be several places in the harness.

DTC C0327 Encoder Circuit Malfunction - you have a electrical circuit problem ! I suggest you take this to a ASE certified repair facility . There is a very long diagnostic process to test this ! Circuit Description The transfer case encoder is a switch that converts a shaft position, representing a mode or range position, into electrical signals for use by the transfer case shift control module. The encoder houses 4 Hall effect sensors that are used for channels P, A, B, and C. These sensors provide a path to ground, when a magnet, (part of the Motor Encoder), passes over them. The transfer case shift control module supplies an 8 V reference and a ground circuit for the encoder hall effect sensors to function. The transfer case shift control module supplies current limited 5 V on all the channels, thus as these channels are pulled to ground, the module can interpret the location of the transfer case shift position. This DTC detects an open, short to ground, or a short to voltage (12 V) in the Encoder Feed Circuit, an open in the Signal Ground Circuit, an open, short to ground, or short to voltage (12 V) in the Encoder channel circuits.

Check the alternator. It is likely not working to charge your battery as your car operates. Your battery can sustain a momentary rush of current even when it is low, so this explains why you get a turn-over of the engine shaft. But as it drains quickly and needs a boost. It can also be cabling as well, but check that your battery is getting more voltage as the car operates (that is, after someone gives you a boost to start your car).

underneath the drivers side up against the frame rail.

check all grounds from frame to engine or body to engine.. also clean both posts on battery just incase..

From the ignition switch there is a yellow wire that is for the starter. probe it when trying to start. If you have no voltage replace the switch. Also, I believe there is a fusible link in the wire by the starter. It will be a different color than purple. Probe on the back side of it to see if there is voltage at start up. If so, replace with the smae color link.

current start from battery to ignition switch to neutral safety switch with test light check at ignition switch for current when start to yellow wire and so on. hope it helps

I think the purple wire (or maybe the yellow) from the neutral safety switch goes to the coil side of the starter relay, turning it on so power is sent from there to the starter solenoid. You could check for this signal to the relay with a test light. The key must be held in start while you probe the other two terminals for the relay. If the signal is there, either a bad relay or the coil side of relay is not grounded properly. It is possible that the coil side ground is the neutral safety switch-grounding the relay's coil side only in park or neutral-in which case the nagging light on shifter (between off and run, it only works?) may be telling you the safety switch is the problem. You may need to look at a wiring diagram, Greg. But the starter relay is the last component in the start circuit before the starter solenoid. From battery to ignition switch to "crank" fuse to neutral safety switch to starter relay to starter solenoid to starter-and back to battery through ground. That is the start circuit. Just that the wiring tying them all together makes it complicated.

is battery good..do the lights stay on while attempting to start or do they go dead..

I once had this problem on a chevy and found the after market starter holes made the engagement too tight. Drilling larger holes solved the problem, allowing a little clearence between the gears when meshed.

try the thermostat first a.if this does not fix it yes probably the heater core .its behind the dash and at some point it should dump a lot of water probably in the passenger side floor board.

If the engine is reaching normal temp, and both heater hoses are hot, it could be a problem with the blend door under the dash.