1996 Chevrolet Blazer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

shift it to 2 wheel drive run it in reverse short ways

You could try changeing the fuel filter its located under the drivers door mounted to the frame in the fuel line . But the most likely thing that it could be is the fuel pump. You could check fuse # 9 its a 20 AMP in the fuse box that feeds the relay located in the glove box but on this vehicle even if the relay wore bad the vehicle would still start it would just crank for a longer time . the fuel pump has a beck up power supply also feed from fuse #9 that runs through the oil pressure sending unit. So if its not the fuse its the pump or a bad connection at the pump and that is located inside the fuel tank witch needs to be droped to replace the fuel pumpGood luck with it but this is a common issue with blazers

not S10 dead hv coil means input to coil is dead. on this car, 1996 we look at the distributor wiring ,et al. to know what's up with that. and fuses tops the list all EFI AND spark fuses. and ecu.(VCM) the VSM needs 5 good fuses !!! #4,5,9,10,12 then learn to scan the VCM on any 96 or newer USA car it has the new the OBD2 scan port (16pin) just like now. see DTC errors cranked, p03xx errors are all that. CMP error , CKP errors end spark for sure. crank sensor or cam senors, 3 wire HALL sensors and there and the best kind is HALL. the VCM (ecu/pcm) fires the spark control modlen and it the HV coil. if CMP and CKP are not dead. crank for 10second (release not off) and release. if either 2 sensor fail now the scan tool tells you so.. DTC p03xx code errors. cam must spin, and not be timed by kids.(or hold my beer)

• bad fuses (x5)
• bad cmp/ckkp (dead cam timed all wrong)
• bad spark control module
• bad HV coil
• bad wires to all this. page. of listed things.
• bad VCM (if obd2 fails consider this, if no COMMS)
• rusty or loose connectors

is CEL/MIL/SES lamp in cluster dead it must glow keyon. or lamp dead, vcm dead or fuse to ecu x5 dead. hint1,use modern scan too, not one from 1996 era many the only did 1 or 3 uSA cars then, (lack of 3 ports is why) all; modern tools work here, 2005 year up

May have been water or debris pulled into the injectors from running low on fuel . I would run it on some short local runs and a few fullness throttle bursts and see how she does . My favorite Chevy and a beautiful car .

You can't mix these lines. One is 3/8 in diameter and the other is 5/16 in diameter. They are just two metal lines running from the tank to the top of the engine intake plenum, near the back. The 3/8 line has a fuel filter connected to it. To access the regulator or injectors and injector lines. You have to remove the plenum.

There are 2 places they were put. One is driver side above the front axle. The other is a compartment door at the front of the engine. It will be center or offset to the drivers side and usually has one screw lock at the top. Open that door and you will see the filter.

Blower Motor Removal & Installation W/O Air Conditioning Blower Motor (W/O Air Conditioning)

To Remove:

1. Remove the PCM.
2. Remove the coolant reservoir.
3. Remove the rear coolant recovery reservoir mounting stud.
4. Disconnect the cooling tube from the blower motor.
5. Disconnect the electrical connector from the blower motor.
6. Remove the blower motor mounting bolts.
7. Remove the blower motor insulating cover.
8. Remove the blower motor.

To Install:

1. Install the blower motor.
2. Install the blower motor mounting bolts.
3. Connect the electrical connector to the blower motor.
4. Connect the cooling tube to the blower motor.
5. Install the rear coolant recovery reservoir mounting stud.
6. Install the coolant reservoir.
7. Install the PCM.

W/ Air Conditioning Blower Motor (W/ Air Conditioning)

To Remove:

1. Remove the PCM.
2. Remove the coolant reservoir.
3. Remove the rear coolant recovery reservoir mounting stud.
4. Disconnect the electrical connector from the blower motor.
5. Move the PCM connectors out of the way.
6. Remove the blower motor access cover screws. CAUTION
   Do not cut any deeper than necessary in order to remove the access cover.
   
7. Cut through the access cover on the cut line using a sharp utility knife.
8. Disconnect the cooling tube from the blower motor.
9. Remove the blower motor mounting bolts.
10. Remove the blower motor.

To Install:

1. Install the blower motor.
2. Install the blower motor mounting bolts.
3. Connect the cooling tube to the blower motor.
4. Install the blower motor access cover.
5. Install the blower motor access cover retaining screws.
6. Using black weather-strip adhesive, seal the cut line.
7. Connect the blower motor electrical connector.
8. Reposition the PCM connectors.
9. Install the rear coolant recovery reservoir mounting stud.
10. Install the coolant reservoir.
11. Install the PCM.

If one of the mounts for the headrest has a push button you push to adjust it up or down, then the other mount will have a pinhole on the inner side. It is big enough to insert a small Allen wrench. Push it inwards to release that latch and work the headrest upwards, pressing both latches as you go.

Bad fusible link

check the coil/ pack ignition fuses & relay

I don't think that version of blazer has one fitted.

I would think the CAT. they tend to clog and make a rattling sound when driving .Seeing you say you did fuel lines witch is another issue with the vehicle in a snowy part of the country they rust out but your fuel pump must be working because who ever replaced the line would have known if the pump was bad they last 10 years then you have to up grade to the new pumps I'm not going to get in to that now.The only other thing it could be is the fuel regulator in witch case just replace all of the injectors and the regulator comes as a unit .But I think its more then likely the CAT is clogged .

For blower motor, check these fuses. As you can see two fuse go hot with the key on, one is hot all the time. Not only check the fuses, use a test lite and voltage on fuse circuit.

seeing as you just changed the pump, can you hear the pump cycle when you first turn the key on? if not check all your plug in wire connections one my not have been in properly and came loose, hope this helps

Are you using a good set of spring compressors. Get the spring good an squashed. Step back - analyze, is there anything that keeps the ball joints, springs and shocks from seating properly. Does the new ball joints look exactly, and I mean exactly like the old ones

How long since a tune-up? Any applicable trouble codes? If you have the spider fuel system, that system is known for problems. I'd probably use a gage and check proper fuel pressure. Could be other issues? Intermittent can be a pain to track down.

next time u go to start it in the am get in the truck and turn the key to on and listen for the fuel pump turning on for about 2 seconds if not before u go to replace the fuel pump replace the fuel pump relay in the underhood fuse panel common problem good luck lets hope for a cheep fix

Could be the fuel pump is not providing the proper fuel pressure ! Fuel psi less than 50 psi no start GM CPI Vortec

Your thermostat is sticking or your radiator or heater core is blocked up. If you keep running it like this you will blow the head gasket or worse (warp the heads or block.) if it's not already the case.

get the unit from a wreckers /junk yard for a 1/4 of the price