1991 Chevrolet S-10 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

It appears to be a known issue https://www.google.com/search?q=1991+Chevy+S-10.+No+power+at+the+ECM+fuse ..

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. Fuse 2 on the right side

Chevrolet ZR2 S10 1991 Fuse Box/Block Circuit Breaker ...

CarFuseBox https://www.carfusebox.com > chevrolet-zr2-s10-1991... Nov 30, 2022 - Chevrolet ZR2 S10 1991 Fuse Box/Block Circuit Breaker Diagram ; 2, CIGAR LTR, 15A, Cigar Lighter and Data Link Connector (DLC) ; 3, CRUISE, 10A ... ..

Find and repair the crusty ground connector. Usually a tag, bolted to the rear or front of the bodywork. Follow the loom back from a cluster to find it or consult the workshop manual.

Both the tensioner and ldler pully bolt torque specs are 37 ft lbs...

you can get help from the service and repair manual which will help you to locate and fix the problem step by step by you own and you will get the manual from the given link http://toolsnyou.com/

Hi there sounds like idle air control valve failure. Or also known as fast idle valve. I would suggest locate and clean. If that doesn't help then replace it and you should be good to go

if you look on the inside of the wheel you will see what looks like greese fittings you need to have somebody pump and hold the brakies and then you need to slowly crack it open by unscrewing it untill you get air then wait till it stops t5hen tighten it and pump the brakes again and do this again dont let the brake fluid run out of the resivore ok pretty soon you will feel the brake pedle start to get hard then do this a couple of more times and then you will be done ok best regardss mike

If your not sure leave it to someone who does, don't mess with brakes it could cost a life

If you're going to keep that S10, and apparently you are as you are replacing the brakes, go to an auto parts store and buy a Haynes or Chilton service manual. It will give you step by step instructions, and will guide you on which tools to use to do any particular job. An investment of $15 - $20 for the manual will more than pay for itself in time saved and minimum frustration.

Make sure battery has a full charge and battery connections all good, check fusible links, one of your positive battery connections should run to fusible links, where applicable. Ann\y fuses, not only check the fuses, check for voltage on the fuse circuit, use a testlite or something. Some fuses are hot all the time, some go hot with the key on.Ground is also important.

Check all wires going to battery for corrosion. remove cables and clean connections, other problem could be at the starter. Get under the vehicle and check that all wires have a good connection and not broke/corroded.

CHECK FUSIBLE LINK AT STARTER AND AT POWER DISTRIBUTION CENTER(FUSE BOX) ONE OF THEM HAS POPPED. THE FUSIBLE LINK IS NOT THE PURPLE WIRE,,,THAT'S THE STARTER WIRE

They are for either the transmission dipstick tube or wire harness clips. Whichever one lines up

the only way is to send it to a place that rebuilds them to be fixed. or you can go to a wrecking yard and get a instrument cluster and replace your old one. there is paper work that has to be done in recording the mileage on the truck with the original assembly and the mileage showing on the replacement assembly, when and who replaced it, in order to have the correct mileage known by the department of transportation so you won`t get in trouble with tampering with the odometer.

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look on rear pumpkin for sensor its the speed sensor check and replace it.

Make certain there are no blown fuses to the engine controller or ignition system. Is there spark from ignition coil when engine is cranked over? If not, test your distributer pickup coil. If the pickup coil or ignition module are not functioning, you will not have injector pulse or secondary spark.
Good luck.

Injector pulse is driven by the computer from the signal it receives from the ignition module. Check to see if there is spark because that could also be an indicator of a failed module or distributor component but having spark does not eliminate the module. It does eliminate the pole piece. If there is no spark and no injection pulse, you have to check for voltage to the B+ side of the coil. If it is there, remove and repair the distributor. If it is not there, you have to trace to see for a breakage, loose connection, bad ignition switch etc. If is were a betting man, I'd say it's either the injector fuse or the ignition module.

check the main fusible links by the starter.