AutoZone have some funny ideas!
Problems like this are very hard to diagnose. Call out a local auto-electrician. You need someone with a pro grade scan tool and access to wiring schematics and the knowledge to use both.
You have to check all fuses and relays first before you start replacing things chasing the problem and spending $$$$$$$for the wrong reason was this the same issue before you changed the neutral safety switch yes/no? That switch has to be adjusted on most cars before it will start anyway go to your battery cables check for looseness that they are clean of sulfer/battery acid /corrosion around the terminals and post and that you can not turn them by twisting now go to the power distribution box and do the same thing under the hood there's a relay there that should click when you turn the key after the cleaning check that and make sure the cable connections to the box the stud and the cables lugs are clean and shiny also the ground to the engine and those starter cables I understand everything works but that's possible because a limited amount of voltage is needed for this components to operate also this could've happened if corrosion was present you could've lost power momentarily which would sound the alarm or the horn it would've put the car into theft mode if the remote keyfob was not used to stop it you have a pats system (secure a lock) from ford with a chip key any break in power will cause your vehicle to go into theft mode and you might not have known that it happened this will give you a totally dead key no click at all as well as the neutral safety switch same thing if not adjusted properly if that applies to your car you need to have someone turn the key to start while you are moving the switch to adjust it then it will crank,and remember that obviously I'm not there so I need you to be as precise as possible in your post of (a) symptoms before you changed any parts (b) all the things you did upto now and write it all down so you don't forget to include it in the next post we will get there good luck stephen
The GEM has nothing to do with it !
Odometer/Trip Odometer
The odometer and trip odometer are displayed in the integrated circuit LCD display. The instrument cluster records the total mileage of the vehicle using information received from the PCM, and electronically displays this information in the LCD. If this information is not received, the LCD displays all dashes. How did you prove that instrument cluster isn't bad ?
Did you have a factory scan tool hooked up , check for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble code's ? View data to the instrument cluster etc...
Instrument Cluster Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index
DTC
Description
Source
Action
B1202
Fuel Sender Circuit Open
Instrument cluster
Go To Pinpoint Test B .
B1204
Fuel Sender Circuit Short to Ground
Instrument cluster
Go To Pinpoint Test B .
B1205
EIC Switch-1 Assembly Circuit Failure
Instrument cluster
INSTALL a new instrument cluster. REFER to Instrument Cluster in this section. TEST the system for normal operation.
B1342
Instrument Cluster Is Defective
Instrument cluster
CLEAR the DTCs. REPEAT the self-test. If DTC B1342 is present, INSTALL a new instrument cluster. REFER to Instrument Cluster in this section. TEST the system for normal operation.
B1359
Ignition Run/ACC Circuit Failure
Instrument cluster
Go To Pinpoint Test A .
B1317
Battery Voltage High
Instrument cluster
Go To Pinpoint Test N .
B1318
Battery Voltage Low
Instrument cluster
Go To Pinpoint Test N .
U2199
Invalid Data for Engine Coolant
Instrument cluster
Go To Pinpoint Test D .
Your best bet ,take it to a qualified repair shop.
It sounds like it's getting more fuel then it is air check the fuel filter and the mass air flow sensor it regulates the amount of air send it to the computer and the computer breaks down how much gas to operate the vehicle and run smooth hope this helps text George
What relay's an fuse's ? open and close circuit test to the bulb connectors ??????? Voltage testing with a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter !
B+voltage going into the multifunction switch ? Fuse F2.59 7.5 amp located in the central junction box . Green with red trace goes to mulitifunction switch (high beam ) pin #6 , Pin#7 multifunction switch green with yellow trace goes to control (energize ) High beam relay . Control side high beam relay grounds at G103 ! High beam relay located in the battery junction box . Do you know how to test for B+ voltage ? Forget this open and close circuit test . Voltage drop testing is the correct way to test a electrical circuit , the circuit has to be energized .
Do you know what a wiring diagram is ? Did you view a wiring to know what you were testing ? If know ,you can't say you have a compleat circuit. Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info ,under system click on lighting ,then under subsystem click on Head lamps . Click the search button then the blue link . Using a volt meter test .
Basic Electricity for Service Techs Ohm law Current Flow Opens ShortsElectric Testing Techniques You Need to Know
The high beam relay is c1050 ,thats the only one you need ! Do you know about relays ?
VEHICLE RELAYS Operation Diagnosis
Try charging the battery and start the car then disconnect both battery cables and see if the engine keeps running if not alternators got bad rectifiers if it stays running check the fuse link also check the alternator voltage coming out it should be 14.4 or so and use 0000 steel wool to clean connectors at the battery and the ground on the block and any ground straps from the engine to the frame and the connections at the starter and one more thing no vehicle given so check belt tightness if a regular belt 1/4" play if you have a belt tensioner that is adjustable same thing 1/4" play if it's an automatic tensioner stand in front and watch it as someone races the engine if it's moving back N forth and I mean flopping around its bad it should only slightly move when rpms go up not move a lot this means the belt is slipping and not turning the alternator and as you keep driving eventually the battery goes dead post back to me in comments with all checks and progress you're making so we can rule out things done ok good luck and please rate my answer when you can I'm a taxi mechanic with 50 years experience so that's where your info is coming from oh yeah 1 more thing the condition of the belt and pulleys make sure nothing is leaking on to the belt/pulleys and the belt is in good shape also check the pulley grooves for build up of debris grease or belt material this will cause a slipping belt and rpm loss at the alternator so you have some investigations to do and keep a list of everything you did this w a y your not standing saying I think so/or did I do this you must have a positive confirmation of your work done so I can help you also make model and year would be a big help so do these things and I'll look for you tomorrow I'm doing a heater core on a crown victoria and I have to put it back together it goes back out on the street at 4am for the day shift and a another chariot driver in nyc.so later man
Go to ford owners.Com register then download your owners manual go to roadside emergencies and your fuse box diagrams are in there with the values also other important information about your car you can keep the manual on your phone or computer and print what you need
Electrical testing of the starter circuit an control circuit when it won't crank is the proper way to diagnose this type problem .Testing not guessing . Do you know what all is involved to make that start crank ? There is wiring , connectors , ignition switch , park neutral safety switch , starter relay , PCM - powertrain control etc.... When you turn the key to the start position battery + voltage is sent on circuit 50-BB16 A to pin 85 at the starter relay in the central junction box . If there isn't any problem with the anti-theft system the PCM will supply a ground to energize the starter relay. This will close the contacts inside the relay sending B+ voltage from fuse F1.8 30 amp in the battery junction box.to an through the transmission range sensor to the S terminal on the starter solenoid . There are no magical fixes for automotive electrical problems .
No Crank Diagnosis how to troubleshoot starting system problems All make an model vehicles are basicly the same , but viewing a wiring is essential . Could have moisture , corrosion etc... Your best bet , take it to a guy like in the video . If you were here where i am it would cost about $ 100.00 for 1 hour diagnostic time .
Could be a locked up oil pump if you're fortunate. It sounds though like you've broken or seized a bearing or several.
Have a really good,honest mechanic take a look.
don-ohio
