20 Most Recent 2002 Chevrolet S-10 Questions & Answers

When you first turn the key on, listen for the fuel pump to kick on. You might need someone at the fuel pump to listen for it. Any fuel injected vehicle when you first turn on the key the ECM or PCM will turn the pump on for 2-5 seconds to prime and build up the fuel pressure. If it fails to kick on then you might want to check for dual fuel pump relays. The priming relay could be bad, or there is no signal sent to turn on the pump to prime the system. I don't want to point a finger at the Idle Air Control, but its possible there is some gunk in it, in which just remove it by either a large wrench or by removing the hold down bolts and spraying carb cleaner over the needle and in the throttle body. I'm sure you've already tried holding the throttle down upon starting the truck, if so and its still hard to start then check and make sure the system is being primed. Another way to check it, is start the truck and pull the fuel pump fuese until it dies. Then attach the fuel pressure gauge which should read zero pounds. Then turn the key on and see if the gauge goes up, it should be over 40 psi. If it doesn't, then turn the key on and off a few times to see if it does, making sure you wait at least 2 seconds when you turn the key on to give the pump time to work. I have a 91 Isuzu Rodeo that uses 2 fuel pump relays, it was factory built with a 3.1 Chevy engine. Leave a comment to let me know what you find, and if it doesn't work then I'll think of another possible cause. And use a volt meter on the batter to verify 12.6 volts before starting, preferably nothing under 11.5 when cranking, but 10 volts is the bottom limit, and above or about 14 volts when the engine is idling.

1. Vacuum leak: A vacuum leak can cause the idle to drop, making it feel like you are pressing the brake pedal when you shift to 4x4.
2. Throttle position sensor (TPS): The TPS is responsible for sending a signal to the engine management system regarding the position of the throttle. If the TPS is malfunctioning, it can cause the idle to drop and result in a similar feeling as if you were pressing the brake pedal.
3. Transmission: A problem with the transmission can cause the vehicle to feel like it's slipping or dragging, making it feel like your foot is on the brake pedal.
4. Transfer case: If there is an issue with the transfer case, such as low fluid levels or a problem with the shift mechanism, it could result in a similar feeling as if you were pressing the brake pedal when shifting to 4x4.

Supplemental Inflatable Restraint----its your airbag you dont turn it off have vehicle scannrd for any trouble codes and will need to have airbag system diagnosed for problem

s-10 pick up or blazer https://www.modifiedlife.com/2002-chevrolet-s10-blazer-radio-wiring-diagram/ https://www.modifiedlife.com/2002-chevrolet-s10-pickup-radio-wiring-chart/

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Be sure you follow the instructions in the service manual (you can check this at a website like alldatadiy.com) for programming the remote very carefully, ensuring you get the correct feedback from the vehicle when it says you should. However, my experience with aftermarket GM remotes has been spotty, and many of them I have tried have not worked. Although the suppliers said they will work, they often didn't, and the only recourse you probably have is to return it and try a different brand.

I have a 02 s 10 with a stuck bottom 3rd door latch. I took my seat balts loose removed the door panel,also removed the plastic latch yoy use to open door, the top latch was alredy opened and I put a needle nose vise grip on the lever going to the bottom I used to much and broke the little plastic retaing piece that holds the lever.I looked inside door with light saw my latch was in open pos and took pry bar to pry botton door from inside,once opened i used a 10 mm 1/4 in drive to take out 4 bolt's to latch.removed latch placed in vice and heated with burnsomatic torch,the latch is coated with a plastic so i burned it all off with vice grip on the lever to open and pliers the work the part that catches door striker I kept working it until it freed up then put antu seige on put back in truck. I recomend buying a new latch and put anti seize on it. that's my plan but at least it's working for now. or get a good used one from a junk yard. you can e mail me at [email protected] for ant Q's

Are your fans working

I would think it was part of the body control module.

Install a fuel pressure gauge. Key on engine off it should build close to 60psi and back off a few lbs. It should hold steady and not drop off. If it does drop off, replace the pump. Engine running at idle, it should be reading right around 52-54 psi. The engine will barely start/run at 50 psi.

i have been having to remove the hot post from the battery when its not being drove, if not my battery dies, I was told that this is a ground somewhere. ??????? Who told you that ? You have a parasitic drain on the electrical system . Something is staying on or there is a short , maybe one of the computers on the vehicle isn't powering down . GM trucks have instrument cluster problems that can cause this . Can also bring down the class 2 serial data network causing the vehicle not to start . Do you know what class 2 is ? All the computers ,control modules ,what ever you know them by , all share info. send commands etc. on the network . The BEST Way TO Perform Parasitic Draw Test Buick Class 2 Operation Diagnosis 1998 012 GM Class II Communications Your best bet mite be to take it to a qualified repair shop. Chevrolet Truck Battery Dies Overnight Part

Not the neutral safety switch. That piece you see on the dash, the PRNDL, has a needle that's controlled by a wire connected to it and on the column collar that's part of the shift lever. Assuming you've a column shift. When the little clip on the wire that holds these, the collar and the needle, comes off, that is what you have to get to, in order to push the little clip on the end of the wire back on the collar. It's directly under the PRNDL but more close to the L.

first up jack up the vehicle and remove the damaged wheel fit the spare tire and then place an indicator ( rod on a brick ) close to the rim of the spare and turn the wheel if the axle of hub is bent you will see the rim get closer then further away from the indicator as you turn the wheel if it is , replace the axle and bearings if not there will be no axle damage but the bearing could be "brinnelled "( a bearing term where the balls or rollers have been imprinted into the race from impact) in which bearing failure will become evident in 10-20,000 miles next step is to go and get a rear end wheel alignment done as there could be suspension damage that will cause handling and tire wear problems

Yours looks just like the one I had to replace recently on my 2000 camaro, but mine was on top of the tank. Yours looks much easier to replace. See link below. Fix Your Chevy With Your Own Hand

Test with a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter , find a power distribution diagram an check the flow of Voltage . Do you know how to do basic automotive electrical testing , how to use a DVOM , how to read a wiring diagram ? Electric Testing Techniques You Need to Know Copy of Voltage Drop Essentials TST Motor Age Basic Electricity for Service Techs Ohm law Current Flow Opens Shorts You can find free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Starter Voltage Drop There is no guessing in automotive electrical system repair ! Check main B+ cable to the starter .

In general you have to drain the rear end, remove the cover, remove the carrier pin, remove the axles, then remove the carrier from the main shaft and replace the bearings.

The gauge is bad or sending unit in the fuel tank ! There are videos on youtube showing how to test the electrical circuit . Fuel Gauge Troubleshooting