20 Most Recent 1995 Dodge Stratus Questions & Answers

the neutral safety switch (Park/Neutral position switch) is located to the right of the transaxle range switch on the front of the transaxle, just above the fluid pan.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
   
2. Safely raise and support the vehicle.
   
3. Disengage the electrical connector from the switch.
   
4. Unscrew the switch from the transaxle case.
   

To install:

1. Position a new seal washer, then screw the switch into the transaxle case.
   
2. Attach the electrical connector to the switch.
   
3. Lower the vehicle.
   
4. Connect the negative battery cable.
   

Hello, I could be your timing they typically recommend changing them between 60 to 90k depending on the type of car. The cost for this would also range from dealership @ around $450 to $600 for Belt and labor. You could prob find a smaller shop that would do it for around $250 to $400 but I would ask around for recommendations. Depending on the type of car the job should take around 4 or 5 hours labor. The shop typical labor charge depending on where you live ranges from $65hr to $85hr + Parts. If you could get to you timing cover pretty easy I would pull it off and check the belt for cracks or missing teeth but this can sometimes be a job itself depending on the job.


Smaller things I would check before jumping in on the Timing Belt.

1. Fuel Filter
2. Spark Plug Wires
3. Pull a Plug and insure its not coated
4. Check to see if you are getting a good strong Spark
5. Check your oil to insure you have no water in it. (If water you could have a blown head gasket)
6. These symptoms could also come from bad fuel injectors

I hope this info helps you and have a great weekend.

It sounds like a cooling problem, is the fluid being cooled by the pipes from under the radiator? I have tried draining & changing the fluid, it helps sometimes, but it sounds more like the brake bands in the gearbox need adusting, and that means going to an auto transmission specialist, they will know in 5 seconds flat.

Google them

Egr dirty or plugged

The vacuum line for these break under the hood mostly. It runs into the electrical harness. If you can't find the break. It is much easier to run a new line to it. I drill a hole in the firewall then tape and silicone the new line at the hole.

Probably you've got a problem in your electric circuit. Check fuses though I'm quite sure it's not a fuse problem. Probably you need to check electronic system and need assistance fron someone with proper electonic knowledge and tools .

possibly ignition switch is sticking then vs the starter bendix sticking

ASD Relay Sends Signal To Computer--Computer Controls Coil Pack(s)

possible head gasket problem--- trade it in quick

Two things are for certain: First: your dealer is a "Stealer", wanting to get even more of your money. Two: even when the grommet could be shorting the current to the car body, it is more probable that the "clockspring" wire inside the steering wheel assembly has a broken wire. Any reasonably competent car electrician shoud be perfectly capable of fixing both possible cases. Best luck. Amclaussen.

Fuel pump ,timing ,crank sensor... Several things could be cause

You may have hook it up to computer diagnostics, reset timing. Spark plug gap also important.

Sounds like fuel pump pressure .or blocked fuel filter or air filter. also dirty or blocked injectors.

The wires are most likely to be broken right by your stealing wheel. I would pull out the fuse box and fallow both wires for your fuel pump and replace a good amount of it

Code 12 is only displayed when outputting "flash codes" (Cycling the key and watching the Check Engine Light flash) - it mostly indicates that the diagnostic system is functioning properly. There is only a problem if you don't get this code.

Codes 13 and 14 are both MAP Sensor codes.

Codes 24 and 26 are both Secondary Air Switching Solenoid codes.

Code 33 is an A/C Presure sensor circuit code.

Flash codes are pretty generic. They tell you that there is a failure in a particular system, but they don't specify what type of failure. Flash Code 14 for example, can mean that the Map Sensor Voltage is too high or it can mean that it is too low, or it can mean that the 5 volt reference voltage is shorted to ground.

"P-codes" (The kind you must have a scanner to get) however, are more descriptive. Those will give you a more accurate description of what exactly is the problem with the system that has failed.

I will advise you however, that all of these codes can be caused by a shorted VREF. (5 Volt Reference Circuit) Find out where it is shorted and you will most likely fix all of these codes with one repair.