2002 Chevrolet Tahoe - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. Did you disconnect the battery when you replaced the fuel pump? Did you reset the security system and engine immobilizer? Did you connect a pro grade scan tool and check for DTCs? Not sure what you mean by 'cranks, then goes dead'? It turns over than then next time you turn the key there is nothing, no noise, no clicks? Is the battery full charged? ..

Left I/P fuse block. Lower left side of dash.

You will find a few cables on the base mount of the seat, slightly pull on them, and the seat will unlock from its position and you can fold it down. Or you can go over the user manual, if you don't have it follow this link http://cdn.dealereprocess.com/cdn/servicemanuals/chevrolet/2002-suburban.pdf

Catalytic converters.

Normally there is NO LOAD on a sway bar if the vehicle is parked on a flat surface, or jacked up so that both wheels are off the ground. Should not be an issue to remove.

throttle position sensor

Check that radiator thingy. Sorry, can't remember the name of it. Oh yeah. The thermostat.

Hello,
Your question lists codes p305p, and p305, which are not valid codes. Did you mean P0305? This is a diagnostic code referring to a misfire on cylinder #5. It looks like you've replaced parts that could be causing a misfire, but did not fix the problem.

A simple check to verify your misfire is not being caused by an ignition coil (the 4.8 liter engine has a coil-near-plug system, with one coil for each spark plug) is to swap the suspect coil (cylinder #5) with a coil from a different cylinder on your engine.

Cylinder #5 is the third one back from the front of the engine on the driver side of the engine. After you swap coils between a good cylinder and #5 cylinder, clear the codes and see if the misfire followed the coil- if a misfire code sets on the cylinder you moved the cylinder #5 coil to, you know the coil has a problem. That will at least help you rule out the remainder of the ignition system.

Sounds like it. Also check to make sure that the harmonic balancer is not moving forward making a misalignment with the belts.

Everybody's got it wrong including the Mitchell manuals everything is reversed example left front door the gray is hot the brown is negative right front door dark green is hot light green is negative can't imagine how many cars have been screwed up because of this you can easily checked by looking at the old speakers and checking the tweeters if they have them they are labeled positive and negative take a 9-volt battery pop one of the speakers see which way it goes should pop out make sure that you wire the new speakers the same way oh my God there's so many of these on the market I can't imagine how many people have wired their stereos in reverse

At www.reliable-store.com get complete guide on whether to repair or not, service it, and how to repair etc, along with wiring diagrams, electrical diagrams, torque specs, error codes, everything.

Sound like you are turning the control switch too far, don't turn it all the way.

Sounds like you have a brake backing plate (or something similar) rubbing the brake rotor, or up against the tire or wheel. I would look at that first. It is very likely not the power steering or the pump or belt. You are saying that the chirp is less when steering to the right. Look at the Right front wheel and wheel bearing.

There are two heater cores

Sounds like compressor stopped pretty common problem

Remove the lock clip from the axle shaft end. The lock clip is spring loaded and fits securely in the axle shaft slot and may need to be push off the shaft end with a screw driver or related tool. Pushing the axle shaft inwards towards the gears my help in removal of the lock clip.

The switch is a contact type. When you move the switch it complete the circuit by connect the two contacts points. After some time the switches wear out simply replace the switch.

Hey Cody, Sounds like its time for a transmission filter and fluid change.. and BEWARE - If the transmission has not been serviced on a regular schedule you may not be able to drive away from the service shop..(THIS IS NORMAL for a GM transmission that has not been serviced regularly -- I have had this happen to myself once on a '96 suburban!!) If you need to get the trans rebuilt ..TIP - go to the local drag strip and ask several of the mechanics who the best transmission man in town is..(THEY KNOW!!)..use him!! It can usually be rebuilt for around $1400.. Good luck!!!

If you have oil running down the side of the block (from above the oil pan) check the lower edge of the valve cover. Those gaskets often fail to seal when the fasteners eventually work themselves loose Check the fasteners that secure the valve cover to the heads. Torque to 3 ft lbs. If the leak persists... replace the gasket.

Had the same thing happen on my 02 S10. Had to replace the module. I got one from the junkyard. There are also places you can send it in for rebuild. If you want to DIY, maybe try googling for videos on it. Youtube probably has some. No idea if they work or not