20 Most Recent 2001 BMW 5 Series - Page 9 Questions & Answers

This is easily found after you remove the A/C belt. that tensioner is under the car, between the A/C compressor and the crank shaft pulley. after removing that belt you will have to reach up into the motor between the Idler pulley and the power steering pump, it is really hidden well but if you reach up into the motor in that area you should be able ot feel a 3/8 in square hold that you can fit a ratchet into using that tool you should be able to release the tension on the belts*.


*BMW USES VERY TIGHT BELT CLEARANCES AND IT IS OFTEN HELPFUL OT USE AN OLD BELT TO RELEASE THE TENSION AND USING AN OLD 3/8 BOLT AROUND 2" LONG TO HOLD IT INTO THE SLACK POSITION.

Hi Helloarno, just got my 2001, 525i running after having similar problem : Remove & clean Crank Sensor (Check wires OK too). Remove plugs/clean & check. Clear flooded intake manifold. Fully charge up battery, start up......... good luck ! Bazza41

Next things to check are spark and fuel pressure. Making sure you have both of those are the firs steps.
Thanks,
Lee

you need code scanner to find fault/clear fault

Hello and welcome to FixYa!

Try charging your battery as a first course of action. Try to disconnect the battery while parked or when it will sit overnight. On the morning, reconnect the battery and start the car. If it does start then the battery is good but if it doesn't, then the battery is faulty for it's not holding charge. If that's the case, the battery will surely need replacement.

If it drains the charge when parking overnight with the battery connected then try checking grounded wires on the fusebox. It can be hard to tell and I suggest that you take an auto electrician with you to trace out the fault.

Hope you find this helpful and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

Hi
A few things you could look at that would contribute to your X5 stalling would be:
1. Air Filter
2.Fuel Filter
3.Mas air flow sensor and associated pipework (leaks/ come addrift)
4.Vaccumm leaks (pipes and engine)
5.Spark plugs (lots of pictures on-line of different types of build up/fouling on them and fixes)
7.o2 sensor located on the exhaust
6.Failing all the above the fault can be read at most garages by a fault reader and that should if not defiantly point the fault out.

IT is possible that a rubber bung has gone missing and is letting in water or if you lift up the back seat the fuel pump access panel may have come loose, thats where they are on the 3 series so i could be wrong .

its a plastic or metal canisters they usually have two small clamps holding them to fuel line

hi, there is no sound coming through my speakers in my car how do i solve this problem?

There won't be a dipstick. You have to pull out the plug on the side of the transmission while the car is level and the transmission is at normal operating temperature. This is pretty tough for the average guy to do in his garage.
My daughter has a '97. We just take it to a shop and get the fluid replaced every 50k miles and so long as it does not leak, we don't worry about the level between changes.

That is a pretty robust transmission but its computer is very sensitive the quality of the electrical supply. If you take it to a shop, they will probably put a known good battery in the car and check and clean the electrical grounds before they even look at the transmission. If this is your original battery, you will probably save yourself some money (and perhaps a trip to the transmission shop) if you replace the battery yourself and clean any ground connections you can find. Sorry, but other than the one near the battery, I am not familiar with the ground locations on this model, though there should be a ground strap around one of the engine mounts that should be inspected/cleaned.

check you handle assembly Mine failed and I had to get the driver's door handle replaced Hope you are under warranty!

Buy this
http://www.haynes.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&storeId=10001&productId=30803&langId=-1
and follow it to the letter. Do not force, the door cover securing pins are fragile - if you break them they are difficult to find anywhere but a dealer so they will be expensive to replace

Have BMW do the diagnosis. The noise you're hearing is the "re-circulate fan". It's supposed to run for up to a minute after you turn car off. It re-circulates oaf through front vents/cabin filter. Trust me, you do not want to "operate" on that dash.

Check for ignition module

HIYA WAS READING SOMETHING yesterday bout a man in america same problem , it cost him a fortune and the insurance had to get involved. some **** about water getting through a hole in boot where a bung shouldve been . anyway after loads of **** it turned out to be the sunroof leaking (common fault) after he paid ex amount on his insurance excess. it got fixed and he drilled a couple of holes in the boot to alow for drainage!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! come on bmw sort out the radios and the sunroofs and the clutch control valve that give you zero control!!!!!!!!!!!!!!and the rocker cover gasket !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1arghhh . i will try to find the link and post to u!! cheers......pablos1...

the reason the anti-theft has kicked in is because the vehicle thinks that someone is trying to steal it check under the steering column there will be a set of wires check to see that all the wires are intact if not repair the necessary wires and try it

Hi, replacing a faulty alternator on the BMW X5 is actually quite a simple process, requiring only a few basic tools and 15 to 30 minutes of time.
Park your BMW in an area where the front of the vehicle is openly accessible.
Turn off the engine. Pop the hood and remove the negative (black) terminal from the vehicle's battery using a crescent wrench.
Climb under the vehicle and locate the swing pulley along the serpentine belt assembly. The swing pulley is slightly larger than other pulleys in the assembly and is located on the end of a long arm. It is also accompanied by a brass bolt end known as the "auto tensioner."
Connect a crescent wrench to the auto tensioner and twist it counterclockwise. While keeping pressure on the tensioner, slide the serpentine belt off the swing pulley.
Climb out from under the vehicle and locate the alternator. This part is vented and made of aluminum. It is located at the top of the engine carriage assembly and is connected directly into the serpentine belt assembly.
Remove the electrical connection on top of the alternator using a 12 mm socket wrench.
Remove the four mounting bolts around the edge of the alternator, once again using a 12 mm socket. Then slide the alternator out of the engine housing.

The error shows as a "Turbo Charger Bypass Valve Control Circuit High" error. Let me guess, you don't have turbo, right?

Possiblities:

Did you recently "top off" your last gas fill? If so the error might go away on its own.

Is there a lot of moisture where you live? Ignition contact might have gotten wet.

Possibly a piece of carbon blew out of the manifold.

Does the car stall when you stop or while taking turns slowly? Might be cam position sensors.

Sorry for the vagueness but without using a Peake analyzer tool to isolate the problem it makes it difficult to give you the exact reason.