2008 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

In the under hood fuse power distribution center.

Factory Remote Starter Quits After 5 Seconds - Diesel Place ...

www.dieselplace.com/.../340832-factory-remote-starter-quits-after-5-sec...

Nov 23, 2009 - 11 posts - ‎8 authors On my 2007.5 Duramax, the factory remote has been working fine ... I tried this morning again with the remote starter while sitting in the truck and same thing, turned off ....2008 Silverado 2500 HD CCLB Duramax 6 Spd Allison 4X4 Z71 ... shut off engine", basically its doing it foryou as your not in the truck to ... check engine light on wont shift 7 posts Oct 28, 2011 remote start 11 posts Oct 14, 2008 More results from www.dieselplace.com

Factory Remote Start Problem - 1999-2006 & 2007-2013 Chevrolet ...

www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/114985-factory-remote-start-problem/

Jun 12, 2010 - 10 posts - ‎8 authors Factory Remote Start Problem - posted in 1999-2006 & 2007-2013 ... Sounds like you may have an intermittant code coming in and the dealer should be able to pull it out.2008 Sierra SLT ECSB Z71, Corsa Touring, and GMPP CAI .... the remote start button again the truck WILL shut off and the only way to ... Burning smell, white smoke - 2014 / 2015 / 2016 ... 15 posts Jan 11, 2014 2008 Silverado Electrical Issue 15 posts Aug 19, 2012 Making Factory Remote Start Run Longer 15 posts Dec 21, 2010 2000 Sierra, Starts Then Dies - Code 1631 7 posts Dec 4, 2008 More results from www.gm-trucks.com

You are pulling a lot of weight, and 225 degrees won't hurt the engine. As long as it goes back down, I wouldn't worry about it. But if you are going up long hills, I would kick it out of overdrive, if it doesn't already do it by itself.

There is a sensor in the center of your dash for the DRL..Sometimes the sensor can fail or just accidently covered with papers or dirt contamination....You can see the small sensor in top of dash...Of course check all fuses and relays after checking the sensor....Some people don't know about the DRL Sensor..

ok have your replaced any bulbs? i have found putting bulbs in wrong or just being a bad light bulb can blow fuses. try replacing all bulbs with new ones. its cheap and it could be the problem

not sure what you mean by #3 sensor there are 2 frt end sensors a roll over sensor and side impact sensors and the sdm which one are u looking for

There's 3 in the front bumper an one under each front seat number 2 is in center of bumper

Does the driveshaft for the front wheels turn when in 4wd? The actuater might work but the diff lock for the front wheels might have broken. If the front driveshaft does not turn when in 4wd, the transfer case might be the problem.

WIRES MAY BE CUT , CHECK IT

left front of transmission at shift shaft.

I had the same issue. Check fuse number nine.

Check the link. Should be okay. https://www.google.com/search?q=Chevy+Silverado+4L60E+transmission+years+used ..

first buy a DMM meter ,spend $15 and end working blind. the battery and alternator are easy to test and for sure loss of any kind of DC power easy to find using the meter (ASK HOW) K2500 pickup or Suburban???? no told and wiring not the same. no engine told and that too sets wiring. OMG 6 engines 2 diesel. elaborate NO POWER< means head lamps dead? what? and stayed on? means what.? STEP #1 alternator work , battery NEG LUG OFF FIRST or you will blow the 100amp main fuse. doing this ALL WRONG and if a fuseable link, can be hard to find, as others say, not me. never ever connect any main battery backwards or you will blow up very expensive electronics, best I can tell is first failure was the fuse even those kinda hidden fuses called Fuseable links. fuses are first on cars, of head lamps dead and park lamps dead this is first, head lamps work keyon , or off. so is first thing to check with DC POwer loss, (NO POWER"?) if battery is 12vdc then the power is not lost but fuses are blown for sure. head lamps are a safety devices that work even no key in hand. the under hood box has a fuse marked Lighting, if blow HL are dead just below Lighting fuse is battery bus bar fuse. <<< blown? the only hard thing THIS CAR,is the online books stink back in 1992 no digital books then so most cars nobody was willing th scan 500page service manuals. (nor me) so only sparse information exists. (join k2500 real forums? Chevy)\ this truck does have (did new) 4 x fuseable links, 1 for alternator but only that blown kills alternator and runnining engine battery is not 13. to 15vdc so the battery goes dead fast 1/2hour fast. below 13vdc the alternator is dead or fuse link ALT is blown there are more LINKs to blow 3 more. others kill the cab or engine bay fuse boxes dead so all boxes must be check for lost of 12vdc raw DC power. head lamps parking lamps. to top the list and more, check all things DC power, even radiol the list of things dead tells you what fuse box is dead. hope that helps in any way. regards.

https://www.google.com/search?q=1991+chevy+3500c+firing+order&rlz=1C1QJDB_enCA643CA644&sxsrf=ALiCzsYf_ualW3ACz6ZmqX-xDMN_UR54Ww:1665527026966&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi1jrnWm9n6AhX1MzQIHYtRDSEQ_AUoAXoECAEQAw&biw=1920&bih=937&dpr=1 ..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lZinaPrRoTw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wW6kA5GX9dY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2VsJ7XYRaNg

from the maker, ask them only and even ask for upgrades. and they are dangerous devices. even ******* in some states. never use one parked inside a garage. CO the silent killler, etc. the good ones (and oxymoron) have lots of inputs now that make it go dead. even door locks and more, OEM RS , blocks for huge list of things even any DTC errors from any computer in the car takes it off line, <<<<< see what OEM did very telling that.

but no control or lights. I huh?

o2 sensors bad, -5 is par, -25 means super rich and removing this much fuel. are you sure 55psi is right for all states>? keyon 3 times pressue cranking pressure if engine dead. idle PSI pressure will be lowest due to huge plenum vacuum below TV. and gunning engine hard will make PSI RISE to a;most key on PSI the FPR had 4 tests not just 1. exhaust leaks near B1s1 B2S1 will make huge rich running engine,.

A parking brake (informally known as "emergency brake" or simply "e-brake") is a secondary brake system that uses brake cables to engage the rear brakes rather than the using the hydraulic brake system which actuates both the front and rear brakes. The brake cables are pulled by a ratcheting mechanism inside a cabin which can be a pull lever or a push pedal. In either case the mechanism must be able to release the cable tension. Although rare, a problem in this mechanism could prevent the ratchet from disengaging and in turn keep the parking brake engaged. A much more common problem however is with the cables or brakes themselves. Rust and corrosion that accumulates over time can cause the moving parts to bind and not release from their engaged position. To resolve, the binding parts must be moved back into their original resting position manually and then replaced with non-rusted/corroded parts. In some extreme cases it may be necessary to actually cut through a brake cable in order to release tension and make repairs. You can read more here: https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/adjust-parking-brake-cable

The parking bake assembly return spring may be broken. Is it possible to manually lift the pedal up while releasing the brake? The cable could be seized not allowing the pedal to retract.