2006 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Doesn't it work in any speed ? Could have Blower Motor Control Processor if yours has automatic HVAC . Or if manual it has blower motor resistor . Both are located under passenger side dash . Remove insulator panel under the dash if it has one ! ORO How to replace blower motor resistor in Chevrolet Silverado 2005 Chevrolet Tahoe Blower Not Working

Sounds like the HIGH fan relay is stuck in the ON position. Pull the relay and see if it goes off. It should. Then simply replace the relay. This relay should be located under the hood, in the black relay/fuse center.

It depends on what you own but most are just behind your front bumper

Sounds as if the sending unit is bad (shorted to ground) or the wire to it is shorted. Also possible bad gauge, but check others first. Remove sender and use ohm meter to test for signal wire connection shorted to case.

Things that will tear the tires up in short order. Inner and outer tie rods, ball joints, struts/ upper ball joints( you have upper ball joints) Lower control arm bushings, bent frame, and a bad wheel bearing. Every one of these should have been caught by the alignment shop. If you replace the parts your self. Change them all. You already saved tons by doing it your self. Let me know. I will let you know how to align any vehicle by eye and test driving.

Dealer parts dept.?

fuse has an element that normally connects between the two contacts like a light bulb filament if it's broken fuse is no good.you can also use a meter and test for continuity.

Possible catalytic convertor plugging up and bad fuel cap

left front of transmission at shift shaft.

I had the same issue. Check fuse number nine.

Check the link. Should be okay. https://www.google.com/search?q=Chevy+Silverado+4L60E+transmission+years+used ..

first buy a DMM meter ,spend $15 and end working blind. the battery and alternator are easy to test and for sure loss of any kind of DC power easy to find using the meter (ASK HOW) K2500 pickup or Suburban???? no told and wiring not the same. no engine told and that too sets wiring. OMG 6 engines 2 diesel. elaborate NO POWER< means head lamps dead? what? and stayed on? means what.? STEP #1 alternator work , battery NEG LUG OFF FIRST or you will blow the 100amp main fuse. doing this ALL WRONG and if a fuseable link, can be hard to find, as others say, not me. never ever connect any main battery backwards or you will blow up very expensive electronics, best I can tell is first failure was the fuse even those kinda hidden fuses called Fuseable links. fuses are first on cars, of head lamps dead and park lamps dead this is first, head lamps work keyon , or off. so is first thing to check with DC POwer loss, (NO POWER"?) if battery is 12vdc then the power is not lost but fuses are blown for sure. head lamps are a safety devices that work even no key in hand. the under hood box has a fuse marked Lighting, if blow HL are dead just below Lighting fuse is battery bus bar fuse. <<< blown? the only hard thing THIS CAR,is the online books stink back in 1992 no digital books then so most cars nobody was willing th scan 500page service manuals. (nor me) so only sparse information exists. (join k2500 real forums? Chevy)\ this truck does have (did new) 4 x fuseable links, 1 for alternator but only that blown kills alternator and runnining engine battery is not 13. to 15vdc so the battery goes dead fast 1/2hour fast. below 13vdc the alternator is dead or fuse link ALT is blown there are more LINKs to blow 3 more. others kill the cab or engine bay fuse boxes dead so all boxes must be check for lost of 12vdc raw DC power. head lamps parking lamps. to top the list and more, check all things DC power, even radiol the list of things dead tells you what fuse box is dead. hope that helps in any way. regards.

https://www.google.com/search?q=1991+chevy+3500c+firing+order&rlz=1C1QJDB_enCA643CA644&sxsrf=ALiCzsYf_ualW3ACz6ZmqX-xDMN_UR54Ww:1665527026966&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi1jrnWm9n6AhX1MzQIHYtRDSEQ_AUoAXoECAEQAw&biw=1920&bih=937&dpr=1 ..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lZinaPrRoTw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wW6kA5GX9dY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2VsJ7XYRaNg

from the maker, ask them only and even ask for upgrades. and they are dangerous devices. even ******* in some states. never use one parked inside a garage. CO the silent killler, etc. the good ones (and oxymoron) have lots of inputs now that make it go dead. even door locks and more, OEM RS , blocks for huge list of things even any DTC errors from any computer in the car takes it off line, <<<<< see what OEM did very telling that.

but no control or lights. I huh?

o2 sensors bad, -5 is par, -25 means super rich and removing this much fuel. are you sure 55psi is right for all states>? keyon 3 times pressue cranking pressure if engine dead. idle PSI pressure will be lowest due to huge plenum vacuum below TV. and gunning engine hard will make PSI RISE to a;most key on PSI the FPR had 4 tests not just 1. exhaust leaks near B1s1 B2S1 will make huge rich running engine,.

A parking brake (informally known as "emergency brake" or simply "e-brake") is a secondary brake system that uses brake cables to engage the rear brakes rather than the using the hydraulic brake system which actuates both the front and rear brakes. The brake cables are pulled by a ratcheting mechanism inside a cabin which can be a pull lever or a push pedal. In either case the mechanism must be able to release the cable tension. Although rare, a problem in this mechanism could prevent the ratchet from disengaging and in turn keep the parking brake engaged. A much more common problem however is with the cables or brakes themselves. Rust and corrosion that accumulates over time can cause the moving parts to bind and not release from their engaged position. To resolve, the binding parts must be moved back into their original resting position manually and then replaced with non-rusted/corroded parts. In some extreme cases it may be necessary to actually cut through a brake cable in order to release tension and make repairs. You can read more here: https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/adjust-parking-brake-cable

The parking bake assembly return spring may be broken. Is it possible to manually lift the pedal up while releasing the brake? The cable could be seized not allowing the pedal to retract.

My personal suggestion would be to go for these repair catalogs from www.reliable-store.com instead. much better info on all vehicles, complete details, and they also have live assistance feature