Porter Cable Tools & Hardware - Others - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

I too have a Model RN175 Type 1 which will fire one fastener without retruing the driver. This Type 1 does not have the selectable trigger (that allows alternating between single shot and automatic firing). So the previously posted solution (selector mid-way between SS and AS) doesn't apply here. I did a rebuild of the body and replaced the trigger assembly. Still no joy.

I called Porter Cable customers service and technical engineering (888-848-5175 and they suggested check the following items:
1) free movement of the head valve piston and good condition of the spring and o-ring
2) the condition and position of the check seal. This is a rubber sleeve with a lip that must slide up onto the anodized cylinder and COVER THE HOLES. (It has to be installed AFTER the big white plastic cylinder spacer is installed.)
3) the exhaust port to make sure that there was not trash stuck up in there
4) correct air supply pressure
Turned out for me that it was item #2 that was my problem. The rubber sleeve was not stretched up onto the anodized cylinder. This was probably due to initially hitting something hard when nailiing (blew it out of position) then my reassembling it incorrectly.
Hope this helps!
Great nail gun, great company, great customer service!

First get some teflon thread tape, for applying 2 or 3 tightly wrapped turns around the male threaded quick-disconnect adapters, threaded end on your air hose and compressor before installation.
Note: remember that the female quick-disconnect adapter is also a check valve that will only release air when a male quick-disconnect adapter is inserted, i.e. do not install a  male quick-disconnect adapter directly to an air compressor outlet.
Note 2:Always remember to wear approved eye protection when operating air tools.
Start by installing the female quick-disconnect adapters on a male threaded end of the air hose and on to the outlet port on the air compressor tighten the connections with two open end wrench's. Then install the male quick-disconnect adapters to the other end of the hose, blow-gun tool, and the air chuck tool, (tighten as described above). The other implements in the kit (wire brush attachment, inflation needle, etc...) can be threaded in to the outlet port of the blow-gun as needed.
The operation of connecting  quick-disconnects are as follows: Grasp the tool in one hand, and with the other hand grasp the air line near the end leaving the thumb and fore finger free to operate the spring loaded outer release cylinder on the female quick-disconnect by pulling back on it. With the cylinder pulled back, insert the male quick-disconnect adapter in to the female quick-disconnect adapter, then release the thumb and fore finger from the outter release cylinder, thus locking the two together. check to be sure the lock has engaged by lightly pulling at the tool. Reversing this process will disengage the tool from the air line.
Hope this helps Good luck

This is usually indicative of someone pushing down on the sander too hard while sanding. The motor in this sander is strong enough to pull the belt around even with too much pressure on the sander. This causes excessive heat to build in the sanding belt and sander shoe which causes the belt to break down prematurly. It's also very hard on the sander's bearings and motor. Use an appropriate sandpaper grit that will do the job without excessive pressure on the worksurface. This will make your sanding belts and sander work longer and cooler.

Hi, Sanders are prone to getting lots and lots of dust inside the unit. The cooling fan makes this problem inevitable. The only way to fix this is to take it apart and and blast it with a pressurized air tool. Hopefully this will bring back some life to your sander. The effectiveness of this procedure is dependent on how well you can remove all of the dust. hope this helps.

I also have a PC Model 136 belt sander. Although I don't do a lot of woodworking, it has proved to be a workhorse when I needed it. I don't have a problem with breaking belts - the last ones I bought at OSH. The problem that has developed with mine is getting the belt alignment adjusted, after a belt change, to not run against the sander body. A little banging (with my hand) will correct the problem. I have serviced it to free up the fulcrum, but it still jams most of the time. This doesn't address your problem, but it is good to hear of someone else who appreciates the fine older tools. Just a further thought - the newer belts I have purchased are bi-directional, e.g., they will run either way. I know that the older belts had to run one way and running them backward could - almost surely would - cause them to break. I won't insult your intelligence to suggest that that might be your problem.

An air-powered impact wrench runs off of an air compressor with a tank – the air compressor should have at least a 10 gallon tank and be able to generate at least 3hp. Also, an impact wrench requires special sockets that are designed to withstand the high torque applied by the wrench.

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/porter-cable-fr350a-round-head-framing-nailer-parts-c-129_1719_2241.html

The brushes are not replaceable - it is an entire motor assembly. 1) remove the 2 screws holding the top handle on 2) remove the 2 screws on the top of the housing (front either side of switch) 3) remove single screw holding cord hook (rear side of housing) 4) remove small torx screw in the shaker handle and remove the handle Flip over and using a screwdriver begin to pry the top cover off the housing (easiest to get the front side off first)

Look for a button that will lock the collet in place. This will allow you to adjust the collet with a single wrench, without having to wrestle with several wrenches.

any word on type of nailer?

Porter Cable C2002 Parts List and Diagram Type 2 eReplacementParts com

call this company, they have the different types I purchased from them and no complaints https://www.ereplacementparts.com/porter-cable-7800-

Assuming there is 120 volts at the plug, the next thing to do is exhaust all compressed air and see if it restarts. If it restarts the pressure cut in/out switch may need readjusted. If the compressor fails to start again, I would suspect the pressure switch is bad needing replaced.

first you need to remove the tank and get rid of the rust with a rust kill agent, vinga or chemical type with corrosive converter, then liquid paint the inside of the tank, swilling the paint inside and leave to drip out. then find a high pressure line filter, these are a solid filter and put in line. to stop this happening again to the tank you can also put a drop valve in place and when not in use press to release the air inside as this is what rusts the tank. but after the restoration it should be fine without a filter.

using the wrong paper for the machine the sander pad should be like velcro surface to work with felt back pads

Is this it? https://www.manualslib.com/manual/132302/Porter-Cable-Bsv750.html