LG WM - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

yes but I will not good IDEA you will have phenomen transistory is electrical term in engineeering electric, you must get support via ONLINE chat or phone with LG. you must transform the 60hz to 50hz or 50hz TO 60hz.God bless you

Replace the 5 way valve. get the old flow restrictor out of the drying cold water line before reconnecting. It came out of the valve to cause the problem.

The LE error code means that you have a motor problem.  The high pitched noise means that the motor sensor has failed and needs to be replaced.  You will need to call a qualified LG technician to replace the sensor.

fault code "cl".you have your child lock function on.push the two child lock buttons together on the control panel,hold them for a few seconds till the "cl" icon dissapears

The hose from the soap drawer to the tub may be split. These hose have flexible ridges and its common for them to split inside one of the ridges.

1. Make sure the washing machine is properly leveled and that the load is balanced inside the drum. An unbalanced load can cause the machine to shut off.
2. Check the power cord and outlet for any visible damage or loose connections.
3. Check the control panel for any error codes or messages that may indicate the source of the problem.
4. Check the door latch and hinges to make sure they are functioning properly. A faulty door latch can cause the machine to shut off.

only suggestion, next time it happens, unplug like you've done and then hold in power button for 15 seconds to see if that resets it.

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first try unplugging and waiting a minute and then plug in and see if that resets it. if it does not try unplugging, wait a minute, hold power button in for 15 secs and then plug back in and see if that resets it. and finally, try the second one and continue to hold power button in while plugging back in. all are different ways of resetting some washer models. one might work for you and cannot hurt to try. good luck

Get a new washer. Perhaps another brand.

The fix for me was to get a new washer. Had same issue with loud spin cycle. Tried researching while wife was continuing use of washer. Then the LE message appeared.

Took back apart and found that water had leaked and caused a boat load of damage. Bearings shot, seal leaks, drum leaks, Stator damaged. Same issue as 'jammy64' stated.

Cost to repair wasn't worth it. Going to get an
Electrolux model.

I had this problem with another model LG washer dryer and the problem was just the tiny switch (6mm x 6mm) on the circuit board had worn out. They cost about 30 pence on eBay and are very easy to remove and re-solder onto the circuit board as there are only 2 pins. This saved a huge amount of money for a new control board.

Don't use a washing machine to wash a rug. Use a steam cleaner after shaking the rug out outside. A rug may damage your washing machine. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

Alright - bumping an old thread but I think I have some helpful information to add. Firstly, here is a link to the service manual: http://www.espagle.org/doc/45928217/wm3431xx-service-manual-lg/ .

Second, I must warn you that I am doing this from memory (even through it was this morning).

General note: Take note of what screw goes where. There are 5-6 variations.

Steps:

1. Unplug the machine, unscrew the hot water, the colder water, and pull out the drain line from the wall (mine was just hanging into a waste water line, I assume some people have threaded connections).

2. Place the machine in a location that gives plenty of room to access the top as well as the back.

3. Remove the two screws which attach the top panel to the back. Slide the top panel towards the back of the machine, remove and place aside.

4. Remove the screws holding on the top cover/heat shield (this part should have a black tar like cover on top to protect from excessive heat). Lift the top cover and place aside.

5. Remove the screws holding on the back cover. Slide the back cover up slightly and pull the bottom of the cover out. This should free the bottom. Slide the panel downward to free the top. Place aside.

Take a look at the top of the machine, there is a large black duct that says something along the lines of "caution hot." Follow that heating duct towards the back of the machine to the circular cover (this is the fan). Now follow that downward to see the condenser duct (previously described as creamish white). This is part we are trying to detach from the rest of the machine and clean out.

In order to remove this duct from the machine we need to disconnect the heating duct/fan assembly, the small black sensor on the front of the condenser duct, the black tube connected to the condenser duct, and all of the screws holding on the duct itself.

6. Remove the screws holding the heating duct to the drum and the condenser duct. If I remember correctly, there are two at the front of the machine, three along the heating duct, and four by the condenser duct. Make sure you are removing the screws holding the entire duct to the drum/condenser and not the screws that split the duct itself.

7. Once the screws are all out, lift the heating duct/fan assembly slightly and tilt it away from the condenser duct. Place the heating duct/fan assembly on the machine with all of the remaining connections untouched.

8. On the top, front of the condenser tube there is a metal sensor attached to a rubber gromet. This needs to be removed from the condenser tube. It takes a bit of work, but it didn't seem like you could easily damage the gromet if you use a screw driver to pry it out.

9. Unattach the black tube at the top of the condenser tube by squeezing the metal clamp and pulling it away from the condenser tube. My washer had a bit of sealant/glue at the connection. I removed this with a set of pliers in order to disconnect the black tube.

10. Remove the screws holding the condenser tube to the drum. There is one on top and numerous on the back. There is one screw that is not accessible by a screw driver and requires a 5/16 socket and ratchet to remove (or some sort of angled screw driver...)

11. This should free the condenser tube. Remove it and clean out all of the lint. I used a coat hanger as well as the garden hose to get out all the lint. Also take this time to clean out any dirt you can access in the fan and the heating duct.

12. Follow these steps backwards to reattach everything, I hope you remember which screw goes where.

Its very likely I will not check back here, so good luck. I hope there arent too many mistakes in my write up!

Do you see a lot of sudds? Do you put anything in for the clean ? Operator error LG washers are great but can be touchy

I did all the steps to ensure was right soap and amount, used cleaning tablets to keep odor down. I took it in my own hands and made an overflow and vent. Self explanatory with pictures. More than a year, no suds, no odors. the exit has a short incline to avoid normal splash and the fan on secondary catch chamber keep a constant low air movement. Two outdoor electrical boxes, fan, and pvc, I know, overkill.... Hope it helps someone.

My wife has been complaining that the bleach and fabric softener dispenser still had water in it after washing. After removing the top to the washer I found that there are 4 components to the dispenser. 1. the solenoid (part of a 3 solenoid bundle) for the cold water, 2 the controller to the solenoid 3. The hose from the solenoid to the dispenser, and 4. The dispenser. After checking that there were no kinks in the hoses. I checked the solenoid found it had power at the right time but the flow was low. I shut off all the water and disconnected the lines going into the back of the washer I found that the cold water filters were clogged. After cleaning them (there were 2 for each hot and cold) The washer worked correctly.

Question edited to add that it is an LG Washing Machine and not a Sump Drainage Pump. Question moved from Larry's Computer category. Please ALWAYS include 'make model (what it is)' in all questions. This model is very little known and parts are not available. The funky connector is so that you can only use LG spares. https://www.google.com/search?q=lg+wf-t1122tp+parts You would have to find a pump that fits and change the connectors on the washer to match the connectors on the pump. Normally insulated spade connectors.

Washer will not drain: The drain water pump is the main part in your washing machine that pumps out the water. If this is defective or has failed in any way, this will be the reason why your washer will not drain the water. Before you order a new drain pump, make sure to check the pump to be sure a small object like clothing or similar has not lodged itself inside of it causing the NO DRAIN issue and even a no spin issue?. If the drain pump is not clogged, you can test it with a multimeter and remove and replace if needed. Read more:  HYPERLINK "http://removeandreplace.com/2014/10/30/fix-washing-machine-that-wont-drain-washer-not-draining-water/" l "ixzz3X2LbXMWJ" http://removeandreplace.com/2014/10/30/fix-washing-machine-that-wont-drain-washer-not-draining-water/#ixzz3X2LbXMWJ The washing machine drain hose is where the water flows through to get the water out. If this drain hose is blocked, kinked, bent, or clogged, the washer will NOT be able to remove the water from the tub. Check the drain hose to be sure it allows the water to flow freely. You can take the drain hose off and run water through it in your sink to be sure it is not blocked. If there is water STILL in the washer when you remove the drain hose, grab a bucket as the water will exit from where you disconnected it The water pump belt (to drain out the water) may have broke or become frayed or loose. If this belt breaks then it is unable to drain and remove the water from your washer. Inspect the belt to see if this is causing the NO DRAIN issue and remove and replace if needed. If the lid switch is not working as required it will cause your washer to not drain (and many other problems). This may be unlikely as a bad lid switch will usually cause your washer to also not agitate or spin. However on some models this can vary. The best thing to do if you have a suspected bad lid switch is to test it. It can fail electrically and or mechanically. If mechanical failure is the issue, you should be able to see if it is cracked, broken, or not in place to make contact with the lid. To test it electrically, use a multimeter set on Ohms and test it for continuity My advice is free cuz God is good!

Several reports in Australia of brand new LG Washer/Dryer combo (model number WD14700RD) getting dHE error's with very 1st dry cycle.
I bought a LG WD14700RD last week, and yup, washed fine.

Dryer cycle results in dHE error.
Everytime.
Cycle stops & you just have to power off the machine.

Service man found several possible causes.
He unscrewed the top of the machine off & said dHE errors are related to the dryer components. He started a dryer cycle & watched & lisened to machine.
He observed the dryer fan was not starting up.
He unplugged the power cable to the dryer & replugged.
The fan now started up, but only with cold air.
He then looked towards the front of the machine & noticed several cables had come loose from their sockets, one he identified was the heater element cable.
He plugged that back in & another unknown cable was also loose. He plugged that back in.
It worked.
dHE error gone & dryer fan started & pumped out hot air.

It seems at least a few of these machines during transit (from South Korea?) fail due to cables coming loose from their sockets.
dHE errors result if fan cable & fan heating element cable come loose.
My thanks to WAM electrical repairs in Box Hill (Melbourne) for helpfull advice & successfull repair.
For people looking at buying this machine, it washes & now dries perfectly well & I am happy with the machine.
But beware that this problem is out there (there are several other reports I read) and it have this problem, which is easily fixed but does require a service call out, under warranty of course.
Steve, East Melb.
[email protected]

Hi.

Error AE is prompted when there is a leak detected at the base of the appliance or when the anti flood safety device gets activated.

Disconnect power by unplugging power cord or resetting circuit breaker.

While power is off remove any water present at the base of the appliance.

If there is no water, check the pressure switch, wiring and control board for faults that may result in error AE. Check also setting of the drain hose at the back (it may cause siphoning), and make sure that inlet valve is not leaking.

Regards.

Ginko