LG Washing Machines - Page 5 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

If you? Just bought a white appliance, be sure to do at least one weekly cleaning of the plastic exterior. Calm down, don't use soap and water for everything. This could be one of the reasons why yellowing starts to appear. And remember to ALWAYS remove the product from the socket before cleaning, avoiding any accident. Nobody here wants to be shocked. If it's a heavy product, which makes it difficult to turn it off all the time, remember to at least wear a rubber shoe or glove)

Call a service person to repair it for you.

Don't use a washing machine to wash a rug. Use a steam cleaner after shaking the rug out outside. A rug may damage your washing machine. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

Yes, they all have a heating element under the agitator. Google LG (model) parts schematic

Alright - bumping an old thread but I think I have some helpful information to add. Firstly, here is a link to the service manual: http://www.espagle.org/doc/45928217/wm3431xx-service-manual-lg/ .

Second, I must warn you that I am doing this from memory (even through it was this morning).

General note: Take note of what screw goes where. There are 5-6 variations.

Steps:

1. Unplug the machine, unscrew the hot water, the colder water, and pull out the drain line from the wall (mine was just hanging into a waste water line, I assume some people have threaded connections).

2. Place the machine in a location that gives plenty of room to access the top as well as the back.

3. Remove the two screws which attach the top panel to the back. Slide the top panel towards the back of the machine, remove and place aside.

4. Remove the screws holding on the top cover/heat shield (this part should have a black tar like cover on top to protect from excessive heat). Lift the top cover and place aside.

5. Remove the screws holding on the back cover. Slide the back cover up slightly and pull the bottom of the cover out. This should free the bottom. Slide the panel downward to free the top. Place aside.

Take a look at the top of the machine, there is a large black duct that says something along the lines of "caution hot." Follow that heating duct towards the back of the machine to the circular cover (this is the fan). Now follow that downward to see the condenser duct (previously described as creamish white). This is part we are trying to detach from the rest of the machine and clean out.

In order to remove this duct from the machine we need to disconnect the heating duct/fan assembly, the small black sensor on the front of the condenser duct, the black tube connected to the condenser duct, and all of the screws holding on the duct itself.

6. Remove the screws holding the heating duct to the drum and the condenser duct. If I remember correctly, there are two at the front of the machine, three along the heating duct, and four by the condenser duct. Make sure you are removing the screws holding the entire duct to the drum/condenser and not the screws that split the duct itself.

7. Once the screws are all out, lift the heating duct/fan assembly slightly and tilt it away from the condenser duct. Place the heating duct/fan assembly on the machine with all of the remaining connections untouched.

8. On the top, front of the condenser tube there is a metal sensor attached to a rubber gromet. This needs to be removed from the condenser tube. It takes a bit of work, but it didn't seem like you could easily damage the gromet if you use a screw driver to pry it out.

9. Unattach the black tube at the top of the condenser tube by squeezing the metal clamp and pulling it away from the condenser tube. My washer had a bit of sealant/glue at the connection. I removed this with a set of pliers in order to disconnect the black tube.

10. Remove the screws holding the condenser tube to the drum. There is one on top and numerous on the back. There is one screw that is not accessible by a screw driver and requires a 5/16 socket and ratchet to remove (or some sort of angled screw driver...)

11. This should free the condenser tube. Remove it and clean out all of the lint. I used a coat hanger as well as the garden hose to get out all the lint. Also take this time to clean out any dirt you can access in the fan and the heating duct.

12. Follow these steps backwards to reattach everything, I hope you remember which screw goes where.

Its very likely I will not check back here, so good luck. I hope there arent too many mistakes in my write up!

Hi, Please add some olive oil to the hinges and swing the door about 10 times. This should stop the squeaking. Thank you.

It will be best practice to replace the lock.

It may be a heating issue. Have a look here; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nd1LV0j4wiY

Hi,
The humming sound might be in the motor unit due to short circuit

detected leak unplug for 10 min let reset

If your drain is not high enough the water will siphon out while filling. Check your owner's manual for correct height, usually about 39 inches from ground

That is a Hall Sensor, not a haul sensor.

This means that the water pressure switch did not return the water level in the expected length of time. Unplug the washer for several minutes (up to 10) to check for a transient error. Make sure that the washer drain isn't siphoning out the incoming water. (The end of the drain hose in the stand pipe or sink should be higher than the highest water level in the washer.) Check that the wires haven't come loose at the pressure switch. Check that nothing is blocking the air tube attached to the switch. Check the wiring harness for corrosion or damage. (Check the pins at both the switch and the control board. Make sure that the wiring harness has continuity on all of the conductors.) If the problem goes away after cleaning, then you're good. If the wiring is damaged, replace that. If the problem doesn't go away, then the pressure switch should be replaced. If the washer won't start the wash cycle before giving the PE error, the heating element could be the problem. Check the resistance across the element. If the washer shows the PE error when you press start or are setting a wash program, then the either there is damage to the elements that control the pressure switch or control board is damaged and has to be replaced. If you see random PE errors, check for other loose wiring, particularly between the heater and the control board. Make sure to twist wires together securely and add shrink tubing to insulate the wires. I hope this helps. Cindy Wells

error is too big of load possible motor draw too much or bad bearings

The child lock feature has been turned on your washing machine and when the child lock has been activated the control panel will not work and the settings can't be changed either. To turn off the child lock feature press and hold the child lock button for about 3 seconds.

Some information says 3-5 seconds, so you could try pressing the button a little longer.

You could try resetting the computer , Switch off at the wall for a few minutes then switch back on .

There is something stuck in between the drum or inside of the washing machines tub or the bearing has worn out and should be replaced in your washing machine.

You just need to find where from? Back of the soap dispenser. Water Level Sensor. Hoses under the drum. Drain Pump. Drain Hose. Door Gasket on a Front Loader. Full 'make model top load / front load' is useful in these questions https://www.google.com/search?q=LG+washing+machine+leaks+when+filling ..

There is usually a tube next to the drum that has a sensor on it and that tube fills with water. It can get plugged up with softener or debris and then the machine wont be able to tell when it is full. To get to the tube, you must remove the tope of the machine.