Hotpoint Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

It looks like your model doesn't have an internal filter. Not all of them do, and if you want to filter the water you add an external unit fixed to the wall. https://www.google.com/search?q=Hotpoint+CSX24GR+replace+filter There is a number of models that start CSX24 this is the 24X and says it is an optional extra. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/690660/Hotpoint-Csx24x.html?page=12&term=Water+Filter&selected=1#manual ..

google your Hotpoint model number include parts, Dowsil is approved but is price prohibitive.

Here's what you can do to address this issue:

1. Check the Salt Level: Ensure that the salt reservoir is filled with dishwasher salt. The dishwasher needs salt to soften the water and improve the cleaning performance. If the salt level is low or empty, refill the reservoir with dishwasher salt.
2. Check the Salt Dispenser Cap: Make sure that the salt dispenser cap is securely closed. If it's not closed properly, it can cause the "X" symbol to appear on the display.
3. Reset the Dishwasher: Try resetting the dishwasher by turning it off at the mains power supply for a few minutes, then turning it back on. This can sometimes clear error codes and restore normal operation.
4. Check for Blockages: Ensure that the salt dispenser and its inlet are free from any blockages or obstructions that could prevent salt from dissolving properly.
5. Consult the Manual: If the issue persists, refer to the dishwasher's user manual for troubleshooting steps specific to your model. The manual may provide additional information about error codes and how to resolve them.

If none of these steps resolve the issue and the "X" symbol continues to appear on the display, it may indicate a more significant problem with the dishwasher that requires professional diagnosis and repair. In such cases, contacting Hotpoint customer service or a qualified appliance technician for assistance is recommended.

You can ususally take your Hotpoint washing machine out of DEMO MODE by holding down both the ON/OFF button and the START/RESET button at the same time for about 3 seconds.The display should then indicate D OFF.If this procedure does not work for your particular machine, then please just comment back and be sure to include the exact model number of your washer next time so we can provide the appropriate procedure for your appliance. Good luck.

Question edited for clarity and toss in a load of CAPS! It is a gas appliance and must only be worked on by a gas certified technician. It is likely to be the igniter to the oven, or more likely the Thermocouple safety device. https://www.google.com/search?q=Hotpoint+Ultima+HUG61K+oven+not+lighting ..

Could be a faulty control knob.

Certainly! Here's a concise response for the forum discussion: To clear the Hotpoint dishwasher FDYF 11011p Fault F01, you can follow these steps:

1. Power Reset:
   • Turn off the dishwasher and unplug it.
   • Wait for about 10 minutes.
   • Plug it back in and restart.
2. Check Door Lock:
   • Ensure the door is securely closed.
   • Check for any obstructions in the door lock mechanism.
3. Inspect Wiring:
   • Examine the wiring for any visible damage.
   • If you're comfortable, check the connections and reseat them securely.
4. Temperature Sensor:
   • Fault F01 may be related to the temperature sensor. Verify its condition and connections.

If the issue persists, it's advisable to consult the Hotpoint dishwasher manual or contact customer support for further assistance. Hope this helps!

It is best to leave the plug on the power cable as if there is an issue, it can be isolated from power without delay.

I have one of these, mine is named Cannon. There are two fans. One that comes on when the main oven is used and heating, the other is for air cirsulation for the top or small oven and has nothing to do with the heating or cooling of the top oven. If it doesn't reach temperature, I would be looking at the thermocouple/thermostat as a first suspect.

The first thing to always try is disconnecting it from the mains plug overnight. Then in the morning press and hold the power button for 60 seconds. Then plug it back in. The is a Power Reset on a machine that has an electronic mainboard. Does water enter the machine? My guess is that the water inlet valve may have failed. It waits, no water comes, so it times out. There are a few things to check there, make sure there is water in the pipe, make sure the strainer screens are clear in the hose connecter on the back of the machine. No model details given but there is help in the link. https://www.google.com/search?q=Hotpoint+washing+machine+going+into+pause+mode

The same thing happened to my Hotpoint cooker and they replaced it. It happened to the replacement product also. Now they don't want to speak to me. DO NOT BUY HOTPOINT/ whirlpool products. They are very unprofessional . Please don't buy their products. You will regret it

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjC_-mpw5SCAxUpCnkGHWfJDewQFnoECA0QAw&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.repairclinic.com%2FRepairHelp%2FHow-To-Fix-A-Dishwasher%2F28-95--%2FHotpoint-Dishwasher-Lights-Flashing-Or-Blinking%23%3A~%3Atext%3DIf%2520the%2520dishwasher%2520lights%2520are%2Cis%2520functioning%2520properly%2520or%2520not.&usg=AOvVaw1Zr97Zu3aDvX9lj1mrJZ56&opi=89978449 also check water inlet valve.

I would suspect a damaged thermostat control.

Visit page no 6 of user manual Instruction manual for Hotpoint WMTF 722 H Top Loading Washing Machine - White (Argos Product 380/7365) (argos-support.co.uk) It may help you.

Doing things like that seldom works, but if is is cheap, try it. Your motor is here including new from Whirlpool. Welling electronic control motor HXGM1L.52 https://www.google.com/search?q=Welling+electronic+control+motor+HXGM1L.52 ..

The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again. Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks. If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run additional loads. if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle. If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps. If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker. Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker. The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips. To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty. If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet. If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets. Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and  HYPERLINK "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFsvLiuTniU" replacing the lid switch is probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace. By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

sounds like you may have a timer with the contacts sticking closed at certian intervals. or a bad pcb check visual inspection of PCB look for burns or bulges, on the diodes or capcitors, Ihave in the past taken timers apart and fixed sticking contacts by sanding with emery cloth.