Heartland Refrigerators - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

It is either the metal hinge points which can be silicone lubed or it is your seal rubbing on something which can be cleaned and should go away.

Hi, How long does this temperature issue last? When you notice this issue how long does this sit at the hire temp, 1 hour? I am trying to understand why Heartland/Marvel would ask you to turn it off. Please let me know. Thanks I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
Check Temp inside freezer. It has to be down to about 10 or 15 degrees
This can cause slow ice making if its too high even tho its freezing everything else at 25 degrees
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
The icemaker is 110v
See if water is in icemaker.
Pour water in Ice Maker and wait to see if it ejects.
If it ejects thenyou need to replace water valve in rear bottom of fridge(Its the part that
attaches to water line out of wall)
If it doesn't eject then it is a faulty Ice Maker.
If its leaking or no water at icemaker or door either one, then the valve at the rear bottom of ref needs replacing
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if freezer control is turned WARMER, which makes the Ref. colder
Also if it is getting drinking water to the door but not to the icemaker (or vice versa) Then you need to replace
the water valve at the bottom rear of the fridge. It is a double valve and one side is not working
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
If you still have trouble GO HERE:

hhttp://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.htm

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Leo Ponder
imufo2
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Hello Steve, welcome to FixYa.

I understand based on your description you have a Heartland 3310 stainless steel (SS) fridge that compressor nor the condensor fan is suddenly not coming on....though the compressor is quite hot, correct ?

Unfortunate that these things seem to happen at the worst time, but this would be something I would consider calling in an authorized appliance technician, but the place I would start is as follows, check the compressor as shown below and if o.k. replace that start relay asap. That is the most likely culprit...but it can be the control itself, though unlikely in my almost 20 yrs. experience.

As I said If you feel like you can trouble shoot further I`ve provided the following info to assist you or you may decide to call a professional appliance technician (as I recommend)...it's your call.

I don`t know the age of your fridge, but I should mention...

** I don't know the age of your fridge, but most of the manufacturers of fridges have 5 to 10 years sealed system warranty which would include the compressor but not the electrical starting devices i.e., the overload & relay. Check your owners manual, it is the ultimate authority on warranty no matter what anyone else tells you according to your manufacturer.**

The info I have is a generalization from Heartland...

Limited Warranty - Major Refrigeration ComponentsSecond Through Fifth Year - After the first year from the original date of purchase, through the fifth year , the manufacturer will repair or replace, at its option, free of charge for parts and labor only, any part of the sealed refrigera-tion system (consisting of the compressor, evaporator, condenser, drier and connecting tubing) and the cabinet liner (exclusive of the door liner) which fail in normal home use. All other costs, including mileage, transportation, trip charge and diagnostic charge, if required, shall be the responsibility of the owner.

Aside from that, If you have a multi- meter you can check the compressor to see if the windings are ok.

**First, Unplug the fridge**

Remove the panel at the back down at the bottom. This should gain you access to the compressor. On the side of the compressor will be the start relay/overload assembly such as this image...it may be enclosed in a black plastic cover as well.


Pull off the relay & overload and you'll see 3 pins in the form of a triangle...


With a meter measure between any 2 pins at one time, going between each pin with one remaining on a "common" pin.

You'll want 3 measurement's, similar to this example- 6ohms, 3ohms, and 9ohms.

On some meters you may simply get a reading of "0" ohms, as long as the needle moves off of "infinity" which would indicate an "open" winding = not good !

If following that, the readings are good, purchase a hard start kit. Part # HS410 also known as a 3in1 starter kit.

i.e.



The above package contains info and hardware on how to connect it.

**NOTE : the HS410 ( 3 in 1 ) should be considered just a temporary "fix" as opposed to an actual "repair" in should not be relied on for long term reliability or safety, but rather thefactory replacemnet, double check with your model number**

Hope that help`s move you forward if nothing else. If so please take a second and rate the guidance and a testimony to your inquiry you received here at FixYa, either or all is appreciated.

Let me know how it goes and Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)