Frigidaire Washing Machines - Page 3 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa

Based on your description I suspect the rear bearing or spider gear is toast. You are probably right, either the suspension shock absorbers are broke or the inner basket is separated from the spider gear often times.

Very common for these machines unfortunately. It isn't too bad if just shocks, but it is a very involved repair for the spider gear/inner basket.

**Unplug the unit from the wall before attempting any of these service tips...safety first**

You'll need to remove the lower access panel to investigate the shocks...these shown are the newer style but previous versions where all plastic, hence the broke much easier.

i.e.



and the rear panel to inspect the basket & spider gear attachment. Check for any signs of leakage or rust behind where the arrow indicates...the tub bearing.



If you think you're up to it I can help in whatever manner possible with those Frigidaire washers.

I'll watch for your reply. Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

https://www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/symptom/dryer-repair/1234594/door-won-t-stay-shut/dryel07

It looks like there isn't a way. you could phone them and ask? https://www.frigidaire.com/Owner-Center/Contact-Us/ https://www.google.com/search?q=Frigidaire+FFCD2413US4A.+change+Default+Wash ..

The water must be connected to both inputs if it has both hot and cold fill.

Question edited for clarity 'make model (what it is). Question moved to Frigidaire Washing Machine. This is the Transmission unit, which I would say puts it beyond economical repair. Frigidaire H Transmission #WCI-134735700 List Price: $765.13 Sale Price: $637.61 On first reading, I thought it sounded like the pump, but then no agitation, but it spins. This makes it sound like the control board. In view of the confusing actions and the cost involved, I would call out a Service Engineer. https://www.partswarehouse.com/Frigidaire-FEX831FS2-Washer-Dryer-Combo-s/70205.htm ..

Check the filter and pump for obstructions.

Hi Michelle Dentremont - I understand you are seeking Frigidaire Laundry Center FEX831CS0 manual. You can download the manual to your unit here. Let me know if you need further assistance.

For that many issues and for the amount of money you spent, you need to call out a technician who knows this machine. Sometimes, you just have to let the pros take over. Burnt cables is never a good sign as it can take everything with it.

I had the hardest time getting the old filter out...nothing worked for me; it wasn't frozen with ice as one video suggested, it was just physically stuck. Pressing in I couldn't get the rear latch mechanism to let it go. (even after removing the housing) I ended up: 1) turn off water pressure (maybe this helped some?) 2) removed the 4 screws holding the mounting mechanism to be able to get to the latch that holds the "rooster comb" of the filter. 3) took a hemostat and moved up the latch while pressing the filter in (a bit tough now that bracket wasn't mounted, so nothing to push against 4) it finally came out. One of the plastic clips on the "rooster comb" actually broke on the filter side, it was likely jambed so I couldn't remove the filter. The replacement filter doesn't have the full "rooster comb" instead just one piece of the "comb" but it seems to hold in place fine, maybe will make it easier to remove (didn't want to tempt fate trying to remove it after I got it in place). So...I'll try buying a filter that has just one piece comb. Also, the one that stuck had this comb on a slide mechanism that goes up and down (relative to top/bottom of refrigerator) but the replacement has it fixed with no slide...it could be that the slide movement actually contributed to it being stuck, since the mounting plate in the refrigerator also slides up/down in same direction (not sure why 2 pieces both slide, maybe if spring in mounting plate were stronger it would work better but in lieu of changing out the $40 mounting plate, I'll see if this "one piece" comb allows it to be removed with less fuss.

GOOGLE IT ONCE

My affinity atf8000fs1 won't fill with water. I replaced the inlet valve, pressure valve, Main board and power board and door switch. Same result. It starts, locks door, I hear clicks as if it is cycling to next phase, but water does not fill the tub. This is a front load model. Anything missed before I part it out?

All front loading washers will fill and drain multiple times before it finishes. Unlike a top loader, a front loading washer will take longer to run because there is no agitator and will fill with water and drain multiple times. A front loader is more energy efficient than a Traditional top loading washing machine. A washer dryer combo will take hours to complete a cycle.

The problem is with the electronic board of the device and you have to repair or replace it.

Clean the filter

"E20" is indicates a drain problem.
- Set towels under the hoses in the rear of the washer and disconnect the drain hose. Clean the drain hose screen and look for debris where the hose connects to the washer. Clean as necessary.
- Remove the front access panel from the washing machine and locate the drain pump. Remove the screw clamp and clean out any debris that may be causing an obstruction.
- Clean the sump hose that is connected to the trap cup and reassemble. Close the front access panel.
- Restore power and press "Drain/Spin" to remove any remaining water from the tub.

Hope helps (remember to rate this answer).

There are a couple of videos and text based articles in the link, plus disassembly. I would check connection on the control board connections and those on the lid lock. The lock has to be functioning properly to operate. https://www.google.com/search?q=Frigidaire+FFLE3911QW0+combo+washer%2Fdryer+is+starting+and+locking ..

During normal operation, the display may show:
“SAn” - deep clean (Sanitary Cycle)
“cd” - cool down (Sanitary cycle)
“do” or “dr” - door problem.
“Err” - an error has been detected.
“LOC” - control lock is activated.
“PAU” - cycle has been interrupted.
To clear latest stored error code:
• Turn the Program Knob to the start position, Spin
Only.
• Press Start/Pause to start the cycle and save it.
• Press Cancel to stop the cycle and turn off the
LEDs.
• Press Cancel again to turn on the LEDs.
• Within 5 seconds, press and hold the Option and
Start/Pause buttons until LEDs start sequentially
chasing, then release buttons.
Turn the program knob clockwise 7 clicks from the
Start Position. The control will signal the last error
code.
• Press and hold the Options and Start/Pause
buttons for 3 seconds. The code will be cleared.
• Exit Diagnostic Mode to return the washer to normal
operation.
a) Unplug the power cord, wait 5-8 seconds, then
reconnect the power cord OR
b) Turn the program knob clockwise 2 or 3 clicks
after the Start Position. Press Options and
Start/Pause buttons together for a few seconds
until wash cycle LEDs appear.
Simple right? LOL and then you do the hokey pokey...
OK where where we?
Ah yes we needed to dump the old code so we can do a fresh
diagnostic Test.
Diagnostic Test:
The diagnostic test is used to check individual component
function only.
TO START THE TEST:
• Turn the Program Knob to the start position,
Spin Only.
• Press Start/Pause to start the cycle and save it.
• Press Cancel to stop the cycle and turn off the LEDs.
• Press Cancel again to turn on the LEDs.
• Within 5 seconds, press and hold the Options and
Start/Pause buttons until LEDs start sequentially
chasing, then release buttons.
1. All the LEDs will sequentially light. Pressing a
button below a light cluster will light all the LEDs in
that cluster at one time to confirm functionality.
2. Turn the program knob (1) click clockwise from the
start position. The hot water solenoid will activate
and hot water should enter through the detergent
compartment.
3. Turn the program knob (2) clicks from the start
position. The bleach water solenoid will activate and
cold water should enter through the bleach
compartment.
4. Turn the program knob (3) clicks from the start
position. The bleach and the wash water solenoids
will activate and cold water should enter through the
softener compartment.
5. Turn the program knob (4) clicks from the start
position. The door lock solenoid will deactivate and
the loading door can be opened.When the door is
opened, the drum light should turn on.
6. Turn the program knob (5) clicks from the start
position. The washer will fill and tumble. Once
tumbling has started, the Boost Heater (if so
equipped) will turn on.
7. Turn the program knob (6) clicks from the start
position. The drain pump & door lock solenoid will
activate and the washer will operate in high spin.
SAFETYWARNING: If power is removed during this
test, the door can be opened. To prevent injury, DO
NOT put your hands inside when the tub is rotating. Oopz!
8. Turn the program knob (7) clicks from the start
position. The control will signal the last error code.
Exiting Diagnostic Mode
There are two options for exiting theDiagnosticTestmode
and returning the washer to normal operation:
a) Unplug the power cord, wait 5-8 seconds, then
reconnect the power cord OR
b) Turn the program knob clockwise 2 or 3 clicks after
the start position. Press Options and Start/Pause
buttons together for a few seconds until wash cycle
LEDs appear.
If a situation arises where you cannot exit the
Diagnostic mode as described above and the
bank of 5 LED’s on the right end remain ON
regardless of Program Knob position, a combination
of pushed buttons may have caused the
control to enter a special factory test mode.
Disconnect power to reset the control to return
washer to normal operation if this occurs. Are we clear so far? It gets better: Here are your fault codes:
E11 Fill time to long check inlet screens, kinked

hoses unpaid water bill Etc
E13 Water leak in tub or air leak in air bell or

sediment in hos as well. Blow that ****** out.
E21 Water not pumping out fast enough. trash i pump,

frozen drain call roto rooter, skip that LOL
E23 Drain pump relay on control board failed, check

for broken wire or buy a new board hay you could use a

$500 spare right?
E24 same as E23
E31 Pressure sensor not communicating with control

board find tube blow out sand sediment etc
E35 Again sediment or suds in tube.these type errors

can be caused by too much soap wrong soap soap placed

in wrong dispenser.
The rest are on page 63
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Water is not drained completely

Common solutions for: Frigidaire Washer won't spin or agitate. Inspect the drive belt to determine if it is broken or if it is loose on the pulleys. If the drive belt is broken or loose, replace it. If the lid switch assembly fails, the washer will not spin.

SOUNDS LIKE A BAD TIMER