Fisher and Paykel Refrigerators - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support
Hi, I have a Fisher and Paykel E402B
the defrost heater or thermostat located on the evaporator coil thats icing up isnt defrosting due to a bad heater or thermostat,or it can be the defrost timer that powers these other 2 parts
Fisher and Paykel fridge E521T is not cold enough?
If your Fisher and Paykel E521T fridge isn't cooling properly, check the temperature settings, clean the condenser coils, ensure proper ventilation around the fridge, and inspect the door seals for any leaks. If issues persist, consider contacting Fisher and Paykel customer support or a professional technician for assistance.
I moved a fisher and paykel upside down fridge freezer to a new house, I turned it on a half hour after it was in my new home but it has not gotten down to a cold enough temp, if I turned it on too so
It is possible damage will result. Your fridge's compressor motor is suspended inside the compressor housing on three or four springs. These springs are designed to hold the motor load in a vertical position. Transporting a fridge on it's side can stretch or break these springs which can cause a shudder stop condition (the fridge makes a shuddering banging noise everytime the compressor stops and sometimes when it starts).
It's a good idea to let a fridge sit for a bit anytime it is moved. Over night won't hurt but an hour is more than enough time.
the internet consensus seems to be that you should limit the amount of time the unit is not upright. And as stated above, leave it upright at least overnight before starting it. Apparently damage can arise from mixing of lubricant and coolant, so damage is more likely in an older unit with worn seals.
The fridge isn't as cold as it should be, all
Seems to be a common problem. Same problem with our fridge. (10 minutes to fix = apprx. $200) One of the wires for the fan breaks. I suspect F&P know about this and I suspect are making a lot of money in repairs
Beeping constantly in middle of night
My fridge (E440T but I believe the E522B is similar) also had a broken fan wire. I pulled off the panel and re-soldered the wire. I also created a document for others to follow if interested at http://www.accentis.com.au/downloads/misc/How I fixed my Fisher and Paykel Fridge Active Smart Fridge.pdf
Thanks to all postings on this site - it really helped a lot.
Leaking Fisher and Paykel Fridge
i have a fisher and paykel 450L fridge and its been pissing water out underneath the vege crisper since day one, i was told by f&p whilst it was under warranty that it was because of the humidity and constant opening and closing, i finely had enough of cleaning up fridge pee! you shouldnt have to do this for a 2 year old fridge, god sakes the 20 year old beer fridge doesnt leak. rang f&p and booked a service call $121 fast bucks, had to be available from 12miday untill 5pm bloke showed up at 4.45. inside the fridge he took the back panel off and then got out a part from his bag a long black thing with wires and attached it to the?whatever, but get this! it wasnt a replacement part, this fridge never had this part, so what? did they forget to put it in? and ive have to put up with fridge pee for 2 years?? and why do i have to pay the $121? he told me i wouldnt have to pay for the part? whippee? i already paid for it when i bought the "faulty" fridge. ill be getting to the bottom of this, does f&p know there is a fault? and they dont bother to fess up? lucky they dont make cars!!!! took about 10min and so far no more fridge pee!!
What is fault code 2
The resistance of the Evaporator Sensor is outside of the normal range (> 45k ohms).
Primary Action
- Check sensor connection at controller.
Secondary Action
- Replace sensor.
How do I fix a F2 Fault on my refrigerator - Fisher and Paykel Refrigerators
The F2 code on the active smart model relates to an EVAP SENSOR RESISTANCE FAULT which means the resistance of the Evaporator Sensor is outside of the normal range (> 45k ohms).
In the first instance
- Check sensor connection at the controller
but if that does not resolve the problem then the sensor would need replacing.
F&P Active Smart E521TRE Removing freezer back panel
My fridge (E440T but I believe the E522B is similar) had a broken fan wire and i had to pull off the rear panel and re-solder a wire. I created a document for others to follow that shows the rear panel removal if interested at http://www.accentis.com.au/downloads/misc/How I fixed my Fisher and Paykel Fridge Active Smart Fridge.pdf
Thanks to all postings on this site - it really helped a lot.
Model E372b Fisher & Pykel - Beeps with Fridge Door closed periodically-Higest shelves warm lower down freezes things
First I would like to say thanks for all the information on the Fisher-Paykel active smart fridge freezer problems. This was a lot more useful than their customer support help line… After a week of hanging on for ten minutes without any answer I had a look on the net and found your site with descriptions of similar problems so I decided to investigate further
I have a Fisher Paykel fridge freezer (model 402B in the UK) about three years old. Although it didn’t seem to be as cold as normal, the first sign of a serious problem was when it started making a rattling or knocking noise from the freezer compartment. Looking inside it was obviously iced up solid and the noise was probably the fan catching the ice. So first thing I decided to try was a days de icing after which everything seemed ok except the green indicator light was now flashing about once every second.
Two weeks later it was badly iced up again so the problem was still there. At first I suspected the fans (which I could never see actually working). I disconnected one and tried it with a 6v torch battery and it spun ok. It was then I realised what was happening - the fans cut out whenever the door is opened so they are always stopped if you look inside.
A closer look at the aluminium heat exchanger(behind the plastic panel at the back of the freezer section) showed there was some kind of heater element clipped along the bottom with feed wires at either side. Obviousely part of the automatic de icing systems. It’s a bit tricky but there an electrical connector plug at the top and disconnecting this enables you to unclip the element and remove it (except that in this case one wire had been trapped at the wrong side of the coolant pipes when they had been fitted so it had to be snipped to get it out). Once out a circuit test showed there was no circuit through the element. So cutting into the two shrouded connections at each end of the element revealed some little components inside which I now know are “Thermal fuses”. One of these had “Blown”. There was a number on the side: - DF 72S which Google revealed is a thermal fuse set at 72 degrees. Although these are listed as spares in all sorts of places non was convenient to the UK. So I found a similar component at Maplins Electronics (R14) set at 92 degrees for just 69p! The reasoning being that the other thermal DF 72S fuse was still ok and the slightly higher use temp at the other end would still blow before anything melted!
By the way you cannot solder these things in so its best to use miniature screwed “block” connectors plus a good covering with insulation tape.
After putting it all back together its now been working for a month and no ice build up… The green light did still flash for a while but went out once the temperature dropped too normal freezing level.
Total cost of replacement parts was under £1 but it took a bit of time find the problem.
Not finding what you are looking for?