You should notice a looped strap of cloth next to the head rest at the top of the seat. That is the release for the seatback lock. Simultaneously pull up on the strap and pull the head rest forward to fold the seat forward. The seats are split 60/40, so each seat has its own release looped strap.
That could mean your PCV valve/system has a problem and isn't removing excess pressure from your crankcase.
During the power stroke of the engine, the gasses from the crankcase are forced upward, and if the PCV isn't functioning properly to route the gasses to the intake to be burned, the pressure will push oil upward past the piston rings and into the intake.
I'd start by checking/testing the PCV to make sure it's functioning properly. If you have a PCV valve, it may need to be replaced.
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Two Questions amalgamated into one.
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All of the things that you have problems with are functions of the Body Control Module. Check those fuses.
You did not say what Make/Model car you have so answer will be a bit generic. The U0107 code means the cars computer (ECU) has lost contact with the Throttle Actuator control Module. One possible condition is a loose wire or connection to the control unit on top of the engine. Start by looking for loose wires and it is located on the side of the throttle body. It's going to be on the same side of the throttle with the MAF sensor located on the air intake. Hopefully this will help out. If you find no loose wiring, your control module may be bad. See here how to trouble shoot if you are so inclined (it is confusing and hard to understand) Link
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By 'spray it', it presume you mean spraying with Easy Start? If so that means you have a fuel delivery issue? Check the following
You have fuel in the tank.
The fuel pump relay is operative.
The fuel pump works and you have the required fuel pressure.
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Question edited for clarity, year make model needs to be first.
Question moved from Misc to model category.
You appear to be guessing at what parts to swap out? Your vehicle is fully electronic and has diagnostics built in. You just need an auto electrician with a professional grade scan tool computer. All the sensors can be tested in place with the computer, the coils can also be tested with it. They all report back to the Engine Control Module. It is cheaper to hire a technician for 30 minutes than guessing parts, and replacing sensors that are fine.
https://www.google.com/search?q=mobile+auto+electrician+near+me
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Did you disconnect the battery when you replaced the fuel pump?
Did you reset the security system and engine immobilizer?
Did you connect a pro grade scan tool and check for DTCs?
Not sure what you mean by 'cranks, then goes dead'?
It turns over than then next time you turn the key there is nothing, no noise, no clicks? Is the battery full charged?
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Sounds like you are possibly loosing fuel prime. One easy way to confirm is to cycle the key a couple of times in the morning to prime the system before trying to crank the engine. If it starts better then you have confirmed that the fuel system is loosing pressure when the truck sits. From here you have to determine if it is a bad pressure regulator or a bad injector letting fuel bleed by when the engine is off.
Hi. Changing the coil first was a good move. Since it did not solve this illusive problem now change the plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor and I believe your problem will be solved. Joe
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There is help in the link, but you have a dead short somewhere. One trick you can try is replace the fuse, and the fuse box cover. Put blankets over the headlamps. Turn the garage lights off and let your eyes acclimatize to the dark. Then whilst looking into the engine, get someone to crank the engine. Look for a flash in the wiring.
More ideas here, starters, relays and stuff
https://www.google.com/search?q=2001+Chevy+Silverado+LS+5.3.+Every+time+I+try+to+crank+it+pops+the+Ignition+A+fuse
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Well the first thing that leapt of the page was that you said you had two batteries and you undid the clamps to both, but then I realised to meant you undid both clamps to one battery. That is actually the worst thing to do because now you have to reset the security system and engine immobilizer.
Make sure your battery clamps and posts are cleaned with a wire brush, wipe with Vaseline or Dielectric Grease and then make sure the clamps are tight. Then put the battery on to charge. This says you have low voltage.
DTC P0480 registers when the PCM doesn't receive the proper amount of voltage from the cooling fan control circuit that should indicate that the fan works properly. This code can be caused by a faulty cooling fan relay, a bad cooling fan, damaged wiring, or a bad coolant temperature sensor.
Jan 19, 2024
JustAnswerhttps://www.justanswer.com > Chevrolet Repair
May 6, 2010 - P0480 is for the low speed cooling fan relay control circuit. · A short to ground · DTC P0480 Cooling Fan Relay 1 Control Circuit · The ignition is ...
1 answer · Top answer: DTC P0480 or P0481 Circuit Description • P0480 is for the low speed cooling fan relay ...
JustAnswerhttps://www.justanswer.com > Chevrolet Repair
Dec 2, 2011 - 2006 chevy: v..it Everything is fine but check engine code p0480 comes... · FC relay connector is damaged (check pins for damage, and for moisture) ...
1 answer · Top answer: Here is a picture of relay you need to replace so start with that..If code comes back on ...
YourMechanichttps://www.yourmechanic.com > Articles
P0480 is a general OBD2 trouble code that refers to the a malfunction within the cooling fan control circuit. This code is similar to P0481 and P0482 codes.
