Motorsports - Page 5 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

You don't say what year, but the solenoid is probably stuck, or not working, just have to track down electrical first like a fuse or broken wire then check the solenoid on the transfer case to see if it works

Pretty sure there is only one blower motor for both the heater and a/c.. does the blower work when it's on heat..if it doesn't then try to find the fuse to see if it's blown otherwise you need a new blower motor

Sounds like the gears are stripped in the motor, just have to replace it.

Start by looking for a fuse, trace the wire back from the door hinge area, then pull the switch off and see if it came unplugged or broken, then pull the door panel off and check for loose wire or a sensor out of adjustment, then pull the motor out and replace it..just be easy when pulling everything apart. and watch how it came apart so you can put it back together.

Have to remove ignition coil there 8 of them put socket with extension and uncrew but be very carefull that type of engine especialy if the spark plug are old they break and your stuck with with one hell of nightmare if you got experiense do it if not i sujets you go to a pro thank for the question pierre

We have no repair manuals here at fixya.

• ponriac??

not much in the way of details .. have you tried to use a little starting fluid in the air cleaner to see if the problem is fuel ?? or is it getting fire?

Is it a new key.If so it will need programmed.It is most likley the security system.Sounds like anti-theft in the ignition switch.If you have original key tape it to new key try to start.there's a sensor in the switch that tells your computer the correct programed key is there.

instal proper lan driver

change valvebody gaskets upper and lower

As long as the mechanical timing is okay so that you dont have a collision with the valves, the ignition timing is the same. Mechanical timing is not an issue if the heads allow enough space between the valves and the piston. approx 15 degrees advanced is where you want to be with ignition timing.

Hello. Check the transmission munts. And just incase, check the motor munts just to be safe. Good Luck.

The gasket is beter also cek the service manual to see the replacing oil pan

Get coil overs for it you can adjust the suspension to the height you want just make sure to not go to low or your tires will scrape

Always Google if necessary for repairs if not on Fixya Research within your cars forums as your car probably has a problem consistent with your make and model.

You would need to do measurements. Surely it will involve changes to chassis and many other things such as exhaust, fuel pump etc etc. may be easier to try to repair chassis to wrecked car. A really good shop can straitened and possibly weld to repair. Don't know of the amount of body work involved. May need to explore restoration experts

No there is not.

The engine noise indicates that the oil light is not lying to you- there is a loss of oil pressure. Make sure the oil level is full. If the light comes on when making severe maneuvers or braking, the oil may be flowing away from the pickup tube in the oil pan. The oil pan may need to have a baffle in it to stop the oil slosh. Otherwise, if the light stays on for more than a few seconds, the pickup screen may be plugged with muck or sludge. If the oil light and noise happen after the car has gotten fully warm (like after freeway driving) it could be excessive wear in the oil pump or engine bearings.

CHECK: UNDER HOOD POWER DISTRIBUTION CENTER FOR BLOWN MAXI-FUSE YES THERE IS A RELAYWHEN IGNITION SWITCH IS TURNED TO THE RUN (NOT START) POSITION...YOU SHOULD HERE A "WHIRRING" NOISE BRIEFLY FROM FUEL PUMP