Masonry Tools - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

You may download a copy of the manual here.

Can't seem to find anything for the JM80 but found this for the JM82. Not sure how different they are, hope this helps.

http://www.ryobitools.com/product_manual/file_url/601/JM82K_493_trilingual_02.pdf

I replaced blades on my planer and now the wood is getting chatter on it, why?

no info generic answer sears.com -----chraftsman.com ------online search using make and model ----stores that carry sears power tools

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I can send you pics of the one I made from plywood for this same jointer. If you're looking for an original I can't help you there.

is the recess deep enough on the bed and perp joints if so is the mortar the right consistency. a little tip is to wet the joints with water before jointing. it stop the mortar drying out to quick

kakima is 100% correct, but to add to it so you understand how he got that 27 cubic feet... you can picture a cube. A cubic yard is 3 foot tall x 3 foot wide x 3 foot high. (A cubic foot is 1 foot tall x 1 foot wide x 1 foot high). So 3 x 3 x 3 = 27.

http://www.goldblatttool.com/Manuals/Concrete%20Mixer%2007855.pdf

This may assist "I found that Hills don't sell new line kits direct anymore, so I got some poly core line from Mitre 10, 60m for $30. Study how the original line was strung through the clips and how it was tied at each end, and you will find that you have to remove 4 plastic wedges which secure the line in the end caps, these things http://www.breezedryer.com/index.php?p=product&id=792 The wedge is not shown. You just push it out upwards. Then cut away and pull out the old line from all the clips, these things http://www.breezedryer.com/index.php?p=product&id=741 Then tie the line onto one end cap as it was before, and restring the whole hoist. To get the line into the clips, you can carefully lever a bit with a screwdriver. Don't worry too much about tension yet, just leave the line a bit slack on each run. You will have to pass the coil of line over the top of the arms many times. Finally cut it off after the final run, leaving enough line hanging down to secure the arms in a bunch when the hoist is folded up. Make the final knot as it was, and then, without skewing the arms sideways, remove any slack going around and outwards, and finally pull in and tighten the final knot at the outer end, and replace the 4 wedges. The line will stretch, so you may need this final step once more.

use u clamps to help them they are small and do the job your local hardware will have them

I do not have a clue as to what you have but a simple switch has two connections and you can connect either way.

Two part epoxi injected or poured into the crack.

take it to an electronic repair shop in town karen don't fix yourself!

with high temp refractory mortar for fireplaces

There are ones where the operator rides on and others where the operator walks behind.

I guess you will have to call your local handyman. And since it is getting bigger repair it ASAP. Maybe you should check the entire house and find out if there is any other damp spots. Call a certified house inspector and get him to work.

What make and model?

Do you still need this manual?

A jointer has 2 uses. 1. it is used to make the edges of boards straight. If you look down the edge of any board, you will see that they are not straight. This is called a crown. by feeding the board threw the jointer, you will take the high ends down to make the board straight. This is necessary, excuse the spelling, for glue ups. 2. It is also used to flatten out a board. Same as the edge, the face could have a cup. By sending the face through the machine, this will make the board flat. Then you send it through the thickness planer to make the board symetrically even. You can use the jointer to make rabbets also, but there are other machine that will do the job better and faster, such as a router or a table saw, with or with out a dado blade.