Masonry Tools - Page 8 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Had the same problem. Drove me nuts trying to figure out where it is coming from. It most likely is a worn in hole in the squirrel cage where the two halves go together. You won't see it unless you remove the fan and both halves of the blower housing. Take them out and put the two together and have a look from the inside. The wear is along the seam. I used hot glue in that area to fill the gap. Squirt it on one half and put the two halves together while hot. Also, you can buy replacements for these. Hope this helps.

You would first run a conductor fromL1 to L1 on the motor start then run a second conductor from L2 to L2 on the moter starter, then run a third conductor from L3 to L3 on the moter starter. next run L1 and L2 to a step down transformer so you can reduce your working voltage to 120vac, then run a conductor on one of the outputs from the step down transformer to one side of the normally closed contacts on the STOP push button, from the other side of the stop button run a wire to one side of the start button, on the other side of the start push button run a wire to one side of the magnetic motor starter coil, the other side of the coil run a wire to the other empty terminal on the transformer, this will be the neutral wire. next you need to run a wire from the normally open contactor on the magnetic moter starter to one side of your push button start switch, then run one wire from the other side of the start push button switch to the other side of the normally open contacts on the magnetic moter starter, this is your start switch latch that will keep the motor running when the start push button is released.I'm not sure how you need the warning indicator light wired up, so please reply and let me know when it needs to come on and go off

Try OWWM . COM - This stands for Old Wood-Working Machines, a huge community of history, restoration and use of vintage woodworking machinery.

I assume you want to know how to get it adjusted just right, not how to move the outfeed table up and down. The easiest way I have found is to lay a metal ruler on edge on the outfeed table so that it extends over the blades. Slowly turn the blade forward by hand while you lower the outfeed table. Do that until the blade snags the metal ruler. Then raise the table until the blades just stop snagging the straight-edge.

go to Dewaltservicenet.com and under the service locator on the right hand side type in your information. The blade set number that I came up with is 37-658 and they show that as qty 3 in one package.

Always plane the concave side of the board rather than the convex side---its almost impossible to straighten a bulging side!

Is this a new install? If so, if you can set it for and supply 220 volt operation, the motor will love you for it. Almost instant acceleration! If this is an existing installation, then look for any binding in the cutter/feeder drives. The start capacitor on the motor may be bad. The breaker itself may be defective. If the power system is ground fault protected, there may be electrical leakage to ground at the motor or control. Hope this helps!

Often, the 220 wiring diagram is on the back side of the plate that's screwed on the motor junction box. Or it is on the spec plate on the motor.

You can get the manual on link below.

http://www.misgroupinc.com/partfiles/M-708521.pdf

Please rate 4 thumbs for the free answer

Table may have disengaged from the threads---apply pressure on the table to reengage as you try to lower it

Check out Woodhaven or woodworkers supply, both on line.

Because of standardized sizes of biscuits, the only blade you can and should use, is the same size that comes with the tool. Anything smaller will not create the right diameter groove for the biscuits to fit properly.

I can send you an exact copy of your model. We repair this type of equipment so if you need parts, please let me know.

http://content.wmhtoolgroup.com/manuals/m_708457DXK.pdf

What is the brand and model ?

generally you would use a bearing puller/splitter but sometimes I have had to crush the outer casing and then put a puller on the inner one and pull off that way or use a dremel to cut into it so you can use a chisel to split it.

Bite the bullet and take the blades out completely. If the blades are interfering, but you can't see where, you need a major blade reset anyway. And if the problem is not the blades, you would want to remove the blades to get at the problem (bearing?), just so you don't cut yourself anyway.

I'm not familiar with hobby type machines like craftsman, but good shop jointers have levers or hand wheels for the infeed and out,either on the sides or the front. I hope your outfeed is the higher one. When jointing, the amount of stock material removed should be compensated by the hight of the outfeed table, otherwise you will produce a taper near the end of the board your jointing. Check and see if raising or lowering the knives moves the outfeed if you still can't find separate adjusters.

go to grizzly.com or call1-800-523-4777 and talk with customer support. They will point you in the right direction.

your outfeed table needs to be raised the amount of material you are removing to keep the board level through your pass. If your removing1/16" then your outfeed needs to be a 1/16" higher than the infeed.

DID YOU CALL THEM GOOD LOCK