Masonry Tools - Page 7 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

when standing at the back of the planer you should be able to see the beveled edge, the flat side of the blade should be facing the front of the planer.

http://powertool.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/delta/tp300.html

If you have the remnants of the old belt, take it to a well stocked hardware or auto parts store. If the belt is missing, you will need to measure the width of the outer 'V' on either pulley, the diameters of both pulleys, and the distance from shaft center to shaft center. The folks at the store can compute the proper belt width and length from that. Be sure to set the motor position so that there is about 3/8 to 1/2 inch deflection of the belt at mid-point and that the two pulleys are in the same vertical plane. This will greatly increase the belt life. Hope this helps!

Try here:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

recently my belle cement mixer fell off its stand whilst still running. oil came out of the carboreta and no it will not start at all.

I think you are talking about what is commonly called "snipe". This is an inherent problem with all planers, but especially with heavier cuts. You can take lighter cuts, or you can start with a board longer than your intended finish length. You can also put the board you are planing on top of a longer board, then feeding them through together.

if you need a part check tool parts direct. if you have the belt, pull the side off opposite the handle that raises and lowers it. you have to roll the old belt off and then you have to roll the new one on. it will be tight and hard to do. if it isn't, there is something loose and that is not good.

I think the belt is on the other side, put that cover back on, take off the top, take off the gears that lift it, take off the drive side cover, I think the belt is held on with a pulley with a ridge on it, Has to come off, One ridge is going one way to stop it from going in and the other is going the other way to stop it from going out. Now , your planer may be set up a little different, But I think it should be close, If the belt is on the side you have off, just keep going, You will see what I am talking a about. I had the same planer years ago, so they might have changed it. Hope this helps.

First off, the stripped screw may be a major problem. If it is just the screw threads that are stripped, you are in luck. Try getting something under the screw head as you turn it out and pry at the same time (a putty knife maybe). Once out you can check both sets of threads (male & female).

You should not have needed to adjust the tables unless they were out of alignment from the factory or had been in use a long time. The first thing to re-do, is align the tables properly. Once that is done you can then go back to re-setting the knives.

My other suggestion is to ask someone who has knowledge in this to give you a hand. Maybe a local woodworker or woodshop or high school shop teacher.

How to change belt on a ap10 thickness planer

I would either replace the gibs or have the machinist put thread inserts into the larger holes to use the original size screws.

You may be able to find parts for it at Grizzly.com They sell the Tiawan tools but have an extensive inventory parts and the quality of tools is better than the typical Tiawan tools. Just find a model that looks like yours and see if they have the parts. You can order them online. Don't tell them that it's not for a grizzly tool, they don't like to sell parts to ppl who didn't buy thier tools from them. Some of thier tools have been re-engineered.
I've had good luck with thier parts and the tools I've bought from them.

I usually adjust the knives slightly above the outfeed table. I use an aluminum straight edge & adjust them using a sheet of printer paper on the outfeed table so that they are about the thickness of the paper above the table. I place the paper on the outfeed table put the straightedge on the paper & rotate & adjust each knife so they just slightly hit the straightedge when I rotate the cutterhead by hand.

Needless to say the jointer needs to be unplugged while doing this.

The knives could be dull, you would have to be the judge of that. If the bevel & face are rusty they are probably dull. They can be honed or taken to a sharpening shop.

The outfeed table could also be too high. I usually adjust the knives above the outfeed table. I use an aluminum straight edge & adjust them using a sheet of printer paper on the outfeed table so that they are about the thickness of the paper above the table. I place the paper on the outfeed table put the straightedge on the paper & rotate & adjust each knife so they just slightly hit the straightedge when I rotate the cutterhead by hand. Needless to say the jointer needs to be unplugged while doing this.

The board could also be convex to start with. To fix that problerm start jointing at the start of the convex part and not at the end of the board.

Good luck,
Frank

You mean you're getting speed bumps? Do you have the blade setting tools that came with the planer? You need them, it will be hard to do without them. It is a little C shaped jig that rides on the drum over the knife, you have your knife sharpened and set in the drum, snug, not tight,under the knife are adj screws, you run the knife setter around the drum and just scrap the top of the knife, do not pull the knife, just go over it barely scraping it, then snug it up, do not tighten anything yet, move on to the next screw, do the same thing, then the last screw, then go back to the first, still good? second, third, now, tighten them up, the setter doesn't pull the knife, just barely scrapes it, but it does hit it. Now do the other side. Both knives will be set the same, no more speed bumps, or uneven cuts. To move the knife back in, if you brought it out too far, use a block of wood to tap it down, make sure you put the elevation screw down first. Do not answer the fone while doing this. It is serious stuff, when those knives start flying. Hope this helps.

you might want to try Dewaltservicenet.com and you can type in your model number to see if they have manual available. If you still have problems let me know.

Please read my response to another jointer problem here, and heed that advice.
In your case, part #28 is the lock screw/bolt, and part#27 is the height adjusting allen screw. (See parts diagram here.)
I haven't worked on your particular model, but if the instruction manual is any good, it will help you with this task... for that see this link.
Make sure you unplug the jointer before working on the knives.
As you retighten them, make sure the knife is centered from side to side so the cutterhead will rotate without binding, and gently snug up the lock bolts before adjusting the height with the allen screws. Hold pressure on the magna-set, if you have one, so it doesn't move as you raise the knife adjuster up to snug against the bottom of the knife, but don't lift the knife up so high it raises the magnaset or straightedge above the outfeed table. Also make sure you are adjusting the knife when it is positioned at the peak of its arc, i.e. with the cutterhead in the proper position of rotation.
When you have the knife at the right height, tighten the lock nuts, recheck the heights, and make a final check of the lock nuts before moving on the next knife.
Work on only one knife at a time, leaving the others tight while you do so. You don't want to reduce the torque on the cutterhead unevenly.
Good luck.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!

You have to loosen the nuts behind the knife blocks before those allen screws will be able to raise or lower the height. They are only meant as a fine adjustment for dialing in the height. (So the tip of the knife at the highest arc of the cutterhead revolution is in line with the height of the outfeed table, as measured, for example, with a steel straightedge or rule.)
You'll need a small open end wrench to loosen the nuts on one knife only, then replace and adjust the heights, then retighten, then move to the next knife, etc. As you retighten, be careful not to tweak the knife out of alignement, and tighten back and forth across the cutterhead, rather than in a straight line from one side to the other, so the torque is spread evenly across the cutterhead...
Here's a link to a parts guide and owner's manual if that would help you out...If you don't find one there check here and maybe there's something close enough to guide you through the process....
Be careful...If those knives aren't properly tightened you'll destroy the beds, and make sure you unplug the power to the machine before working on it.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!

Try the sears support website at www.managemylife.com
If you have no luck there, look at the publication reprints for craftsman tools at this site.
Good luck.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!

I don't know whether you ever got an answer to your query, but I'd suggest you have a look at the Sears support site at www.managemylife.com. (Don't ask me, I didn't name it.)
You don't mention how old that model is, but if you have no luck there, try this site and it's possible there's one there or a similar model you can download that will provide the needed info for you.
Good luck.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!

it usually means you are letting the boards lift slightly at the beginning and the end of the planing process, or you might be letting them enter too fast and push them too fast at the end. a dull blade will cause brown or black areas and smoke as you process them and it will take longer to run them through the planer ususally.