Martial Arts - Page 2 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

If you're looking for an excessive use of sword you should try all the different types of Japanese martial arts. You should try Kenjutsu , Naginatajutsu or Iaijutsu in order to master the use of a sword.

A blunt instrument is any solid object used as a weapon, which damages its target by applying direct mechanical force, and has no penetrating point or edge. Blunt instruments may be contrasted with edged weapons, which inflict injury by cutting or stabbing, or projectile weapons, such as bullets or shot, are accelerated to a penetrating speed.

Traditional Nunchaku was typically made from hard wood, such as oak. The modern Nunchaku can be made from wood, as well as other plastic and fiberglass materials. Also, the rope of the traditional Nunchaku was made of horsehair, while the rope of modern Nunchaku is made of nylon or metal.

Traditional karate weapons include the Bo, Tonfa, Nunchako, Eiku, Kama, and Sai.

The cost of martial art belts varies. It really depends on the quality of the belt and the brand. You can find belts in Amazon that cost a few dollars and you can find belts at websites like Kataaro that cost around $80

I have found a few sites that sell wall mounting displays for martials arts belts; however there are so many to choose from online - I recommend you do some extra searching of your own.

http://www.kochmartialarts.net/servlet/the-5783/karate-belt-display%2C-martial/Detail

http://www.kochmartialarts.net/servlet/the-7771/karate-belt-display%2C-martial/Detail

http://www.amazon.com/Personalized-Karate-Belt-Display-Rack/dp/B0069WOKYK/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1346574646&sr=1-5

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=karate+belt+display

Hi Keith....we need more details on the product and exactly what it is you need or want to do. Regards, Dennis

Try using - in between the letters and numbers where they show on the card. Or try not using them.

1949.

"Merbau". One of several species also called "Ironwood". Holy COW - those are amazingly long bugle-head screws for stair tread, unimaginably long for that purpose. There must be some special reason for using such long screws...? At any rate... you're doing it just as I'd be doing it if I was removing them - try to unscrew them. Some may break - there's nothing to do about that. If they break off badly, leaving part of the threaded shank buried in the tread, you may have to pry up the tread (after removing at least all of the screw heads) as best you can, then you may possibly have to grind off the broken-off screw shanks. The problem is primarily one of the wood the screws are threaded into, behind the treads. The screws are apparently really hanging onto that wood, so the torque of removing them is not as great as their friction against the wood they're screwed into, but is great enough to break them. The only suggestion I can offer is... if you can get one to turn at all, turn it slowly and as continuously as possible. Your worst enemy here is a slow squeaking or rattling sound - that's shock waves moving back & forth through the screw, and it increases the likelihood of breaking the screw. Turn as continuously as possible because static friction (the friction of one motionless object against another motionless object) is greater than dynamic friction (the friction of two objects moving against each other), so there's less stress on the screw as long as it's kept moving. Keep it SLOW because the screw will be heating up as you remove it - thanks to friction again. The hotter the screw gets, the more it weakens and the more it expands & binds against the wood it's screwed into. Slow. Continuous. And... expect to break some.