Heating & Cooling - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


Contact a local door installer and have them replace the weatherstripping all around. With worn weatherstripping a lot of air comes in around the rollers and at the center posts where the doors hook together (when closed). If you have a pet door installed you may be unaware that the center posts are not linking up. This is a huge gap of 1/2 to 1 inch for the wind to blow right through. Take out the pet door or find a way to close the gap where the sliding doors no longer meet.

Heating &... | Answered 2 hours ago


O and B are both for your reversing valve. Most thermostats have only one (Orange or Blue) wire instead of both. Because of this there should be a setting to select whether the wire will be powered for heat or powered for cooling. HVAC manufacturers used to select a default based on geography. In Northern climes they would use default to heat and in Southern climes they would default to cool. This saved wear on the solenoid and allowed the unit to function with a bad solenoid coil for the most frequent use (heat or cool). Lately the HVAC manufacturers do not base decisions on location or where it will be sold. So test your system and see if the O/B is energized when compared to the C (common or chassis ground at the 24vac transformer). Now check to see if you are getting hot air when set to heat, cold air when set to cool. If not then look in the thermostat setup guide to reverse the O/B function (change the default).

Heating &... | Answered 2 hours ago


Thermostats have multiple issues when you start checking them against thermometers.

1) the built-in thermometer may not match the set temperature because one or both need calibration. Compare the built-in to an external thermometer and see if there is any adjustment to make them match. Record the setting on the thermostat and the temperature when it starts and stops -- there should be a 1-3 degree range which may be adjustable. The set point should be in the middle of the on-off temperature spread.
2) the thermostat has a heat anticipator setting which may be set poorly -- turning off the heat before it reaches the set point - the fan normally runs for 1-2 minutes after the heat source is off. The anticipator is used to stop heating before reaching the set point as there are still a lot of BTUs coming out during the fan run-down -- usually 1-2 minutes.

Honeywell... | Answered 2 hours ago


It should be in this manual.

Heating &... | Answered 4 hours ago


There is a temperature limit switch that is likely responsible for this shutdown. If you are able, take the tower off the stand and split the case (probably a half dozen small Philips screws to remove). Look for an accumulation of dust in the area of the limit switch or on the vertical fan assembly. If you have an air compressor you may use a blower nozzle carefully to clean where you cannot reach in the fan cage. Reassemble completely before testing. Do not do any test with the case opened/off.

Heating &... | Answered 4 hours ago


If you don't find a diagram, what is the issue you want to resolve?

Heating &... | Answered 6 hours ago


Pedals on a heater or AC unit?

Heating &... | Answered 6 hours ago


Propane and natural gas heaters have standing pilot ignition or electronic ignition. If you have a standing pilot ignition you should see if the pilot light stays on when lit and after the valve is turned to the full ON position after lighting. Electronic ignition should light the pilot for you and then the burner comes on - but at the end of the cycle the pilot and the burner go off. If you do not have ignition, check the gas pressure -- 5-7 inches of water column for natural gas and 11-15 inches of water column for propane. Use the pressure noted on the regulator or other labeling. If you cannot test the pressure then contact your gas company or propane supplier for service.

Heating &... | Answered 6 hours ago


You will need to assess the problem to determine if it is loss of power (circuit breaker or GFCI or overload tripped on the unit), failure of controls (thermostat or switch), or if the heating element(s) or burned out (open circuit or very high resistance on Ohm meter). Once you have that information you can proceed to purchase the necessary part(s) or reset the tripped power safety -- but if it trips again you need to diagnose why that happened.

Hyundai Heating... | Answered 6 hours ago


Window AC units normally have two motors. One motor spins both the inside and outside fans. This motor may be PSC (permanent split capacitor) with a run-capacitor. Test the capacitor or just replace it if it is old and you don't have test meter(s). The other motor is inside the sealed compressor unit. This will be overheating if the first motor was not running at full speed due to a failing run capacitor. The thermal check will auto-reset but the compressor motor most likely cannot start until it is cooled completely down by being turned off for an hour or more. There is also a run capacitor on the compressor motor. Test and/or replace. If this does not correct the problem I do not recommend further repairs as most window units are cheaper to replace -- labor will be high on changing a compressor, fan motor, or coils and expansion valves.

I have omitted advise about cleaning coils and fans and filters, but if you find a lot of dirty build-up then clean those first before moving on to motor issues.

Heating &... | Answered 6 hours ago


Remove the panel the codes are on the backside.

Goodman Heating... | Answered Yesterday


You need to have it done it will be about $30 with a handyman.

Goodman Heating... | Answered Yesterday

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