Clamp the shaft behind one wheel with 'Channelock' or 'Visegrip' pliers, then tighten both nuts. Check the new wheels for 'off-center' running by spinning them with your hand. They may fit the shaft tight enough that there is no centering adjustment--use a 'wheel dresser' (either a stone type or a multi-wheel type) to true up the wheel so that there is no radial wobble. Hope this helps!
Remember if you are trying to change the left side it is a reverse thread nut. You would turn it clockwise to loosen. IF it is very tight, put a wrench on both sides. IF the right side comes loose, remove brush/grinding wheel, and re-install nut, with an extra nut locked to the first one, the put a wrench on both sides again.
There is a left handed thread and a right handed thread on the arbors.
Removal
Right Hand Side (RH)
Wrap a piece of rubber or leather around the threads on the LH side of the arbor & hold with pliers, while turning the RH nut CCW.
Left Hand Side (LH)
Wrap a piece of rubber or leather around the threads on the RH side of the arbor & hold with pliers, while turning the LH nut CW.
Installation
Note: Hand tighten the nut, then 1/4 turn.
Right Hand Side (RH)
Wrap a piece of rubber or leather around the threads on the LH side of the arbor & hold with pliers, while turning the RH nut CW.
Left Hand Side (LH)
Wrap a piece of rubber or leather around the threads on the RH side of the arbor & hold with pliers, while turning the LH nut CWW.
For grinding stones:
ring test the stone
discard the stone if it has been dropped
be sure the paper washers are installed on the wheel
There is a left handed thread and a right handed thread on the arbors.
Removal
Right Hand Side (RH)
Wrap a piece of rubber or leather around the threads on the LH side of the arbor & hold with pliers, while turning the RH nut CCW.
Left Hand Side (LH)
Wrap a piece of rubber or leather around the threads on the RH side of the arbor & hold with pliers, while turning the LH nut CW.
Installation
Note: Hand tighten the nut, then 1/4 turn.
Right Hand Side (RH)
Wrap a piece of rubber or leather around the threads on the LH side of the arbor & hold with pliers, while turning the RH nut CW.
Left Hand Side (LH)
Wrap a piece of rubber or leather around the threads on the RH side of the arbor & hold with pliers, while turning the LH nut CWW.
For grinding stones:
ring test the stone
discard the stone if it has been dropped
be sure the paper washers are installed on the wheel
Grainger 2LNA7 $11.09 / each
20 A/120 VAC
I have used this switch on that model od Craftsman grinder - 397.19581.
It is the closest fit, but not an OEM look. It is a red rocker with black base.
http://www.grainger.com/
This switch is a very close fit, and it is rated for 20A 120VAC.
2LNA7 $11.09 / each
Grainger
I've used it on that vintage Craftsman bench grinder.
http://www.grainger.com/
Pay a professional to sharpen one chain. If that cuts straight examine your sharpening procedure or the individual that does the sharpening.
Lou
If not please post back below.
Much would depend on whether it is a start capacitor or a start/run capacitor.
If there is a switch on the end of the rotor operated by centrifugal weights it will be a start capacitor only but if there is no centrifugal switch the capacitor will need to do double-duty and the value could be critical.
Contacting a dealer or the manufacturer would be favourite but a motor specialist might be able to make a recommendation. Guessing isn't really an option and the working voltage of the capacitor is equally important. Most generic capacitors are rated in dc volts and for them to be safe used on ac mains the working voltage must be considerably higher than the rms value of the ac mains. It is best to use only capacitors rated for ac mains.
You will probably find the capacitor as a spare part from a dealer will be prohibitively expensive but once the value has been discovered and if possible the manufacturer, part number and so forth, great savings can be made by sourcing direct from the capacitor manufacturer.
I recently paid less than £5 plus carriage plus VAT for a capacitor the machine manufacturer wanted more then £60 for.
Good luck!
Ah, the start winding is not operating. When you turn the motor by hand. When the motor speeds up, do you hear a click sound? This is the start winding switch working. There might be a capacitor that is wired in with this switch that is used to start the grinder. If this capacitor is fried, the motor will not start. If the switch is shot, also the motor will not start. There could also be a wire or connector in this part of the motor that is not connected, or fried and not making contact. These are a few things to look for.
Hello.
First of all I must warn you of the dangers bench grinders can represent. Here in Britain no one connected with a business is allowed to carry out any maintenance on any none-portable grinding machine unless they have attended and passed a course on the subject and every employer must keep a register recording what maintenance has been carried out and by whom. Grinding machines have been responsible for many industrial "accidents".
Householders and private individuals are exempt from the Law but cannot afford to be less well informed even though the five and six inch bench grinders sold to the domestic user represent a somewhat reduced risk, great care and precautions are still required, not the least of which is the use of good eye protection even if the grinder is fitted with shields.
The first problem about dressing the grinding wheel of a grinder intended for the domestic market is the tool rests are usually too small and insubstantial for the vibrating star-wheel type wheel dressing tool to be used correctly.
A demonstration would be the best way to learn how to dress a grinding wheel and there are many available on Youtube and here is a link to a particularly good video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RqxfJ4DtZtQ
Finally, it is best to be aware of one little thought about problem. There is an optimum speed range when a grinding wheel works efficiently and small domestic grinders barely turn fast enough for them to be properly efficient, probably because it is reckoned price and user safety takes priority over efficiency.
The speed that is of concern is the surface or peripheral speed of the grinding surface rather than the rpm of the spindle and should that speed fall too low the wheel will not be able to operate efficiently, will become dull more quickly with a greater tendency to clog and the wheel will become hot in use and hot grinding wheels soon become dangerous.
I hope you will be able to see that by reducing the diameter of a grinding wheel by dressing it also reduces the surface speed of the grinding surface even though the spindle speed remains the same. The relationship between surface speed and spindle speed is why small grinding points need to spin at 20,000 rpm and an eight foot wheel at just a few hundred rpm - in both cases the surface speed is similar.
A domestic grinder should not be used for heavy work but as the size of the wheel is reduced it should be used only for increasingly light work and if it is desired to carry out "normal" grinding operations it would be better to replace the wheel sooner rather than later.
A grinder that growls when you start it usually means the bearings are worn out or very dry. You can try a little WD40 spray in the bearing area and if that seems to work use some heavier oil to keep it running. It's good to oil the bearings every so often I find.
If the plug on the cord has 2 flat prongs and one round one then its 110 VAC single phase. If the motor has 4 wires then I'd suspect 3 phase. The data plate on the motor will tell you for sure.
