Grilling - Page 8 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Turn off propane. Disconnect propane tank from barbecue. Open burner valves for about 20 seconds. Close valves. Reattach propane tank. Slowly open propane tank valve. Turn on burner and ignite

May be you need to replace the igniter. The igniter is easy to break if it is used for a long time or if it is not used for a long time. My grill also replaced the igniter and the burners in June, they are all rusted, i bought them at this online store and the quality is pretty good grillpartsreplacement.com/collections/kitchen-aid-720-0745b-gas-grill-replacement-parts-and-accessories

I got my brinkmann grill replacement parts here: https://grillpartsreplacement.com/collections/brinkmann Not bad, their items are free shipping in US, hope it can help you.

I have a Ducane "Take it or Leave it" Portable Gas Grill that I bought in 2003. The Burner with shutter (Where gas comes out) is rusted so bad it fell apart in pieces, it is right sided in that when it is screwed in place it looks like a backwards "S"

This happened to my grill too. I had to replace the stainless steel tube burners- only 1 was broken but I replaced all while inside. Parts are available at various sources online and this is easy to fix. You will need to open the front panel. If you have a helper to hold it, that will make it easier and you won't detach the internal wiring.

Since it's a Kenmore grill and Kenmore is a house brand name of Sears. Have you tried calling your local Sears or K-Mart store? If you did and weren't successful, simply measure your grill (Height, Width & Depth) and armed with that information, visit any home improvement center or hardware store that sells grills and accessories and I'm sure you will find one that fits.

Hope this helped you and Happy Grilling!!

If what you're looking for is the Regulator/Tank Hose Assembly, you can purchase that for any home center or hardware store that sells gas grills. They are pretty much a universal fii, but be sure to take your old one with you for comparison purposes of the hose length. A little longer is ok, but shorter is not.

If that's not what you're looking for, you can purchase replacement parts directly form Char-Broil.

http://www.charbroil.com/Store/ReplacementParts.aspx

Happy Grilling!!

I can't help you in Alberta, but there are plenty of only Brinkman parts outlets, such as https://grillpartssearch.com/category/Parts_for_BRINKMANN_Gas_Grill.html?source=adwords-brinkmann&gclid=Cj0KCQiAnNXiBRCoARIsAJe_1cpm75POwg_NEdY4yQ0gFNMvjxoE9befixiPxE7GjSldDruCn1qzXw8aAjMzEALw_wcB If they don't have what you need, just Google it.

brinkmanns site or one of the many online parts shops I.E. https://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/gasgrillparts/brands/brinkmann/ https://www.brinkmannpartsworld.com/

MOST OF THEM NEED PUSHED IN TO BE ABLE TO ROTATE THEM

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/733139/Cajun-Injector-Electric-Smoker.html

You aren't leaving the button pushed in long enough, or the thermocouple needs replacing.

I am not clear how an electric smoker works but I am guessing there are two basic problems - one of design and the other of material specification. I have dismantled many electric heaters of various sorts, lots made redundant because they were old-fashioned and expensive to run. Some of them were in excellent condition even though they were perhaps up to half a century old. The remarkable thing about the design of these was how substantially over engineered they were. This was partly due to the fact when they were built a significant number of homes and offices were using direct current mains electricity, consequently the switches needed powerful springs to ensure a rapid connection and disconnection and the large contact area had a wiping action with a classic knife-switch design. Poor contacts from arcing generating additional heat was designed out. The switches were almost exclusively ceramic bodied. The internal wiring was another point of interest. Where wire was used at all it was so heavy as to be practically rigid, probably an alloy of some description (possibly with nickel). These were preformed into a shape where thermal expansion would be no problem and insulated with a woven asbestos sleeving; today's equivalent would be a woven ceramic. These "wires" would be terminated with an overly large and substantial screw and flat washer. A significant number of heaters had no internal wiring and instead used flat metal strips, again insulated with heatproof sleeving. Later heaters did use multistrand wiring but it wasn't copper - again it was probably an alloy and again covered with a woven insulation and even the terminals were rated for high temperature use. Wire suitable for greater temperatures than 200 C and quite difficult to find but probably the best modification for your smoker would be a little over engineering and specifying wire capable of withstanding 450 C. Check out the link to some wire wisdom... https://www.anixter.com/en_uk/resources/literature/wire-wisdom/high-temperature-wire.html

on for 5 days they simply overheated

no information if have paperwork or manual should show how -or online search using the make and model for manual

I assume you have already check with BBQ's Galore ( 800-752-3085 ), as they usually stock conversion kits, if that particular model is approved for conversion. Also, you will need 4 new Natural Gas Burner Orifices. The Propane ones will not work satisfactorily, if at all.

Hope this helped and Happy Grilling!!

check with manufacturer or online for a conversion kit

I would check on the company wedsite . Can you not blow them out with air line

How many amps is it drawing?

smoke 180 , med 340 and high 450 approximately