Water Sport - Page 8 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

quick google the model number

I have one as well. Same problem and it got worse until I had to prime the carb to run. Fix is simple. 2 carb kits off eBay. Approx $30 ea new. Takes about 2.5 hours to do. I have never done before so I thought it was easy. What happens is the carbs have rubber diaphragms in them that act as a fuel pump. My old ones were really thin and worn. The new ones thicker and better. Put it back together and viola. It starts on it's own. I checked all forums about shut offs and external primers, pop pressure etc. Just rebuild your carbs. You'll be fine.

Which check valve are u referring to? On the metering plate under the main diaphragm or the fuel pump side? The metering plate valve is held in with a plate and single screw the other side is held in with rubber grommets.

As bad as this sounds its the only way. Grab yourself a 2x4 and a nice size prybar.Lay 2x4 across the back grab handle as to not damage it then put prybar directly under seat latch and pop it up.

They come pre gaped, I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/randy_e5359400ebb1a45d

http://www.ropeinc.com/news-boating-magazine-towing-tenders.html

If you have not moved the crank shaft or cam after the belt was taken off. just put it back on since the timing hasn't changed. If you did move it then it gets dicey because you can bend a valve if you try moving the crankshaft without moving the camshaft too.

Counter clockwise, it has normal right handed threads. The only part with left handed threads is the pump/impeller shaft.