You're probably already done with your project by now, but you should wait at least 24 hours, lightly sand, and wipe surface with acetone and a microfiber towel before applying a second coat.
Sir,
Try this resource for reliability and accuracy. There is a helpline so you may reflect a personal solution and be given a suggestive application. Having read the file. Section 33 Construction Adhesives & section 11 DAP Silicone Plus will interest you. More and more we are relying on chemistry to help save . Give this resource a look. http://www.dap.com/docs/catalogs/DAPCatalogUS.pdf . Fare. Well.
I would get a small can of contact cement. Follow directions( ex. coat each side to be glued with each other wait usually 5 min. and then press together.) There is also Scotch spray on adhesive that will also work.
There is no effective long term way to store tubes of silicon. Even unopened tubes have a finite shelf life. I have found the most effective way to store opened tubes for medium lenght time, is to allow a bit of excess to flow over the tip, and allow it to form a plug. In a few months, this plug may extend the full length of the nozzle, but you can push this out with a piece of steel rod (from the tip end). I keep my tubes of silicone and caulking in a cool dry place. I've never tried the bucket of water method, so I don't know how successful that would be.
sounds like off gassing. I suspect 1 of the following:
1. you didn't wait for the adhesive to dry to tackiness before applying
2. it's in direct sunlight or in a hot area
3. the material for the map is very thin and/or stretchy
On pre-mixed buckets, a lot of dry-wallers add just a little water and whip it up when tape and texturing. It flows of the blade better. But, if you're just repairing a few holes, dings and gouges, then no real need............unless it's really thickened up on you.
If you have a partial bucket and are not going to use it for a while, you may want to flick some water on the surface and lay Saran wrap on the surface, then cap the bucket.
Hello below is answer:
Curing Time: The cure of Loctite PL S10 varies with temperature and humidity. The following times assume 75° F (24° C), 50% relative humidity, and a joint ½" (13 mm) wide by ¼" (6 mm) deep. Skins over: overnight or within 24 hours Full cure: approximately 7 days.
The best product that will not harm the poster or window is silicone caulk. There are also some crystal clear adhesives made from silicone now available.
no this is overkill. the seem tape is only necessary for seems, screw holes can be covered by a coat of joint compound, and sanded smooth after it dries
They're not the same thing, spackle is used to fill in holes or indetations made from nails in drywall while joint compounds are used to join drywall panels together.
at least 2. I would suggest to look closely after the second coat dries. if you have a smooth transition than it is fine, if not, a third thin coat should make the finished product look better