Bosch Saws - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

This sounds like the Hand crank mechanism could be the problem. If it is going down in steps the gearing on the height adjuster could be slipping and 'jumping' teeth. When was the last time you gave the table saw really deep clean? Sometimes dirty and sawdust can get inside this machine. Sawdust can soak up oil and lightweight grease drying out areas that need the oil. Give it a really good clean and see if there is access to add a small amount of oil to the moving table lift parts.

The only solution is to remove the trunnions and threaded rod, thoroughly clean them and lubricate with a silicone based product. Clean these areas at the end of each use to extend the period between tear-downs (yes, you'll probably need to do it periodically). Also, once disassembled, clean and lubricate the guides on the motor mount. I removed the motor altogether to make this task easier. I recommend cutting the power lead to it and installing a quick connect to avoid having to go through the trouble of disassembling the power switch. Good luck.

Bosch 10.8 what ... ..................

Hi, Please rotate your locking collar clockwise in order to reverse the jam. Please review page 9 of your manual in part 1 of "installing the blade". You can also reference figure 3 on that page. Thank you.

It sounds like you are having difficulty tightening the blade on your Bosch 1587vs jigsaw. To resolve this issue, first unplug the tool and lift up on the knob and loosen the spindle lock. Then insert the blade and push up slightly while doing so and twist to align the blade with the roller. Make sure to turn past resistance until it clicks. If the issue persists, you may need to replace the "clic" assembly, part #2-602-025-901.

Hi, It sounds like you've called all 3rd party locations. Please call Bosch directly and request the part. And if they don't have it in the U.S. then you can request the phone number for their international locations. The U.S. phone number is 1-800-944-2904. Otherwise, I would search on ebay and alibaba to find the part that you've mentioned. Thank you.

you tighten arbor nut with lock up. try using nut wrench and rock the arbor back and forth.

Possible throw out bearing or pilot shaft bushing.

Question moved from Bosch Computer, to Bosch 4000 table saw. Unplug the unit and turn the blade by hand. Check the blade is tight and running true. See if the blade is touching anything. If you can't see anything wrong there, it make be the carbon brushes in the motor.

Thanks your question. please see this video

Most electrical bench and table top tools have a part called a 'capacitor' fitted. These do occasionally fail. In simple terms it is a electrical component that stores a electrical charge. When you turn the table saw on the capacitor very quickly loads the motor with that charge boosting the power supply to get it up to speed. If you are doing this yourself wear RUBBER gloves to protect yourself from electrical shocks. They are usually quite simple to replace, However, Capacitors still hold a charge when the saw has NOT been used in a while AND when it is unplugged from the wall socket. They can give you quite a kick, some can actually kill you, if you aren't careful. The safest way to discharge a capacitor that I've found is to use a Capacitor Discharge pen, (often cheap to buy), or the bulb set up. Two short lengths of INSULATED wire with a bulb in the middle. With the table saw Unplugged and wearing rubber gloves touch one wire to one capacitor terminal and the other wire to the other terminal. Using a bulb it should light up then steadily fade. Once the bulb is totally off the capacitor should be safe to handle. BEFORE you remove the wires check the markings on the capacitor to make sure it isn't a directional flow of voltage. Some are and some are not.

Hi Rebecca, I hope this helps; BLADE INSTALLATION Set the blade orbit selector lever to position III. Push blade change button downward as far as it will go and turn the top handle three turns counterclockwise (viewed from the top of the tool). Insert the blade into blade plunger at a 90° angle to the cutting direction. With a slight upward pressure, turn the blade teeth forward (direction of cut) and guide the back of the blade into the groove in the center of blade roller guide. Pull gently down on the blade to seat the blade tabs in the plunger. With the blade in the proper position, turn top handle clockwise until a noticeable "Click" sound is heard, indicating that the blade is locked in place. Push blade change button upward to its original position (flush with the top of the top handle), and the saw is ready for use. Removing the blade is essentially the reverse of the installation procedure, however, take note that once the blade change button is loosened, gently push the blade upward to release the blade tabs from the plunger.

On the underside of the tool, on the same side as the trigger, there is a large button nearest the blade. I think it is yellow on that model. This will be a 'Push and hold' trigger to release the blade.

lift lock on side on the front of saw front

Hi. I've just changed the stop block on my GTS10XC using the instructions that I found here https://www.ereplacementparts.com/toothed-gear-p-47273.html i basically turned the machine on its right side and tilted the blade so that I could see the raise/lower mechanism. I then knocked out the two pins holding the gear and the stop block (using a roll pin punch), undid the two bolts on threaded shaft and then could slide the parts that I needed to replace off. Hope this helps - it's simple when you know how to get the pins out - they did need a good thwacking with a lump hammer mind.

WD40 is as good as anything, 'Plugas' is better. You can even use diesel fuel.

either crossthreaded or debris try using more force back and forth and cleaning dust and shavings

https://www.laserkerf.com/horizontal-way-tube-installation

Remove the end cap on the motor and remove the 2 carbon brushes. There are 4 screws that hold the motor to the frame and the field and motor housing will pull straight off. The armature will also pull straight out but will require some persuasion and finesse so you don't damage the fan blade. The most common issue with these is the end armature bearing and with a bearing puller you can perform this with the armature still on the saw. If the bearing is frozen be sure to also check the rubber boot that goes over the bearing and also the motor housing where the bearing sits because it often melts from the friction.