Black & Decker Grinders - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

the two copper tabs under the on off switch are to break the power source.connect incoming power to one of these(black) then a short piece of wire from the other tab under switch to one of the three tabs under plate that is marked hot or l1 is probably #2 but you need to be sure. the white is the nuetral or l2 which is most likely #3 and the green is the ground most likely #4 I would definately look online for a wiring diagram to be sure if they are not marked with L1 L2 and GND

Both and could also be the switch on the grinder

It's probably best to disassemble it and clean it up inside, especially if it's never been cleaned inside before.

Well I researched a couple different sites I frequent for replacement parts and I have some bad news. Apparently this part has been discontinued. However you can always contact the company and get a price quote from them. they usually always have a few stored for cases like this. their contact information is, 1-877-SKIL-999. If theirs anything more I can do just let me know. -Derek

the drive belt is most likely broke, you can check with the store you got it from ,if they dont have they mite know where you can get one . I hope this helps you .

I think there was But if you go to a tool store I think they will know, I hope this helps.

If you are talking about the steady rest, I would set it at least 1/8 in or a little more and this should be sufficient. If you dont have an owners manual you can to to Dewaltservicenet.com with your model number and they might have one online that you can download. But asa general rule the above should be OK

Lubricate the bearings. The lube has probably hardened. The shaft should turn freely. You can clean the bearings using CRC226 available at Home Depot elec dept.

If the unit has ball bearings they may need to be replaced.

is it possible that you have misplaced the inner clamp washer? I looked at a print on this tool and that is the only thing that I can see unless it has major bearing problems. Did this just start after a wheel change and what is the possibility that the wheels are too big and hitting the housing or there is a build up of grinding dust in the bell where the wheel turns. Most of the parts for this tool are probably discontinued. You can go to Dewaltservicenet.com and under manuals type in your model number for a copy of the breakdown that I looked at.

Usually a new wire wheel comes with different size bushing just for the problem you are describing. Either that or take it back and get one specifically for your tool.

Grinding is the fastest way to deburr a sharp corner or dress the end of threaded rod or bar stock that's been cut to length. Fit a grinder with a wire wheel, and you have a handy tool for removing rust. Then switch to a buffing wheel and you're ready to polish metal to a mirrorlike sheen. But for most of us, grinders are essential for shaping and sharpening hardened tool steel and high-speed steel.

Bench grinders aren't designed for precision work. In fact, they're really freehand tools that rely on a good eye and careful touch. And while you can take some tools, like drill bits or turning tools, right from the grinding wheel to the work, it's common for grinding to be a relatively coarse, preliminary shaping procedure, followed by careful honing on a whetstone.

depends on condition and what comes with it. generally starts at $500 in good shape and up to 850 if excellent with many extras (chucks, rests, knurling attach, faceplates, etc) Also, check for accuracy...

Yes all the tool places say discontinued. Yes, bypass it, but make sure you don't overwork the grinder. https://www.google.com/search?q=2610904741 ..

Out of warranty ... time for a replacement machine.I would choose a different make. Assuming the batery is not the fault.

DIRTY CONTACTS POSSIBLY

Size for size and component value identical on replacement. Fit the correct part.

Considering how potentially dangerous grinding machines and wheels are and how much safety legislation exists about their maintenance, adjustment and use, a great deal of printed matter exists about these things and the wide range and selection of wheel material. You should have no bother finding useful information, fortunately bench grinders are extremely similar to each other... https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfimages/b6/b64b39fb-6d42-4fec-a274-76bbd950e6d8.pdf

Mmmm... that's a little more complicated. If you have a continuity / resistance meter, we can noodle it out, though. First, are the two white wires the ONLY wires coming from the motor? I suspect they are - that's not in conformance with any accepted color code, but it'll work. For the rest of this, I'll assume that the two white wires are the only ones from the motor. You'll need to meter the switch itself, with no wires connected to it. In the OFF position, you shouldn't find continuity between any of the four switch contacts. In the ON position, you should find continuity between two pairs of contacts. The black wire from the power cord should go to ONE of the two switch contacts in a pair that have continuity with the switch turned ON. One (either) of the white wires from the motor should go to the other switch contact IN THAT PAIR. That leaves you with one more pair that has continuity with the switch turned ON. The white wire from the power cord goes to one of those, and the second white wire from the motor goes to the other one. When you have it all wired up, plug it in & turn it on. If it's not right, it should immediately pop your circuit breaker. If it IS right, it should run fine. If it pops your circuit breaker, open it back up and swap one wire from the power cord and one wire from the motor.