Aeris Scuba Diving & Snorkeling - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

The reason to have it on the right is because that is "standard". I dive with a long hose (7') and an octo around my neck on a 22" hose. So long as you explain it to anybody you dive with and talk about your plan for air sharing in advance, it shouldn't be an issue.

"The second stage regulator takes the manageable pressure coming from the 1st stage through the hose and delivers it to your mouthpiece in a way that is comfortable to breathe. Where the 1st stage is only concerned with letting air flow into the hose the 2nd stage has more complex machinery which handles both inhaling and exhaling through the same mouthpiece. Like the first stage the 2nd stage scuba regulator uses a diaphragm or piston to open a valve. Breathing in from the mouthpiece reduces the air pressure inside the chamber, water pressure pushes the diaphragm in, which opens the intake valve. When you stop inhaling the pressure in the chamber balances and the valve closes. The result is an air delivery system which supplies air only when you are inhaling and does not leak air constantly through the mouthpiece. A well balanced and well-maintained scuba regulator does its job so well that breathing feels natural and effortless despite the all mechanics involved. The second stage scuba regulator also has a purge or exhaust valve, which lets your exhaled air out of the chamber, but doesn't let water in. When you exhale into the second stage scuba regulator the pressure inside the chamber becomes greater than the ambient pressure. The exhaust valve is a simple one-way valve which lets this air escape. The second stage scuba regulator also has a purge or exhaust valve, which lets your exhaled air out of the chamber, but doesn't let water in. When you exhale into the second stage scuba regulator the pressure inside the chamber becomes greater than the ambient pressure. The exhaust valve is a simple one-way valve which lets this air escape. A second stage scuba regulator also has an ""emergency"" or ""purge"" button which forces the intake valve to open. When the purge button is pressed air will flow continuously into the chamber and escape either through the mouthpiece or the aforementioned exhaust valve"

It sounds like it is full and can only hold so much information in the watch. Upload the contents to the computer and then delete whatever is on the watch to start again. You can replace the info on your most current dives after you save a copy in your pc. Deleting the contents of the watch should enable you to enter information in all available prompts on the pc ect. Once the watch approaches the limit of how much information can be stored in it ect., it starts to act funny and it blocks access to info at will. Deleting what has been entered to clear space should solve the problem. If clearing the info stored in the watch does not solve the problem then I would suggest taking it to a professional for repair.

Scuba tanks can be filled well past 3200psi. When they do a hydrostatic test it is well beyond any pressure that any dive shop will fill a tank to. The highest I've seen the pressure get in my tank is 4000 and that is when the filler at the dive shop forgot about it.

Hello,

Yes you can get the regulators rebuilt. It is odd that they or it had to be repalced. I would check to see if the warrenty might cover it.

Hope this helps, Matt If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/matt_8dbc24bf722649ac

Purge valves are fairly generic. If you can't easily locate a Aeris dealer, go into any SCUBA shop and ask if they have replacement
purge valves. They do come in several valve and nipple sizes, but you might get lucky. Any dive store worth it's salt will have spares of that sort as a customer service. Failing that, just call the company, talk to customer service and they will likely send you one for free.

Ideally, you should have someone who is certified in regulator servicing to do this for you. Otherwise, you may be endangering your life.

If I understand your question properly, all you need to do is remove one low pressure plug from the first stage regulator, then screw the hose end in from the new octopus.

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Or more to the point: Snorkels don't work under water. They work on the surface by allowing the wearer to have his/her face in the water so that one can look at what is going on and the top of the snorkel is several inches above the surface allowing the user to breath through the tube. If, as often happens, the snorkel gets water in it, there is a trap at the bottom that catches it so you don't **** it into your lungs and on the next exhale you do so forcefully and this expels all the water from the tube and allows you to continue breathing.

You may need to take it to an authorized dealer

http://www.diveaeris.com/dealers.asp

or contact aeris directly for support:
http://www.diveaeris.com/contact.html

Check out pages 52-58 of the user's manual. You can download the manual at:

http://www.diveaeris.com/PDF/12-7197-r02.pdf

it is simply housed in a rubber housing. it is an air integrated computer so the hose will connect to the computer through the bottom. Just peel the rubber housing back away from the face and pop it out the front.

"A snorkel must fit comfortably in your mouth, allow you to purge water out of the mouthpiece and hose quickly and help you to swim efficiently. But, the most important characteristics to remember when choosing a snorkel are its length and the diameter of its barrel. Snorkels must not be too long or too short. If a snorkel is too long it will be difficult to breathe because the barrel will fill up with carbon dioxide. Every time you breathe out carbon dioxide through your snorkel your breath must travel up and out of the barrel of your snorkel to allow you to draw oxygen back down the barrel and into your lungs. If your snorkel is too long you will only push a percentage of the carbon dioxide up and out of the barrel during your exhale. You will need to inhale oxygen before all the carbon dioxide has been pushed out; leaving the percentage of carbon dioxide entering your bloodstream higher each time you take a breath. This cycle could lead to suffocation. If a snorkel is too short it will constantly fill with water, requiring you to constantly force the water out of your snorkel which can be very exhausting. The inside diameter of your snorkel must be approximately three quarters of an inch or 1.9 cm. If the snorkel is thinner than .75 inches it will be difficult to breathe because there will not be enough room in the barrel for you to draw enough air into your lungs. This will cause you to breathe harder and rapidly, which could cause hyperventilation. If the barrel is thicker than .75 inches it will be too large and will be uncomfortable to use and attach to your mask. Learning to attach your snorkel to your scuba mask to make sure it is easy to grab and use is an important part of safe scuba diving practices. Snorkels are attached to the left side of your mask with a snorkel keeper. Snorkel keepers are either plastic or rubber and most use a post-hole closure. Each snorkel keeper is different and attaching your snorkel to your mask with a snorkel keeper requires practice. If you will detach your snorkel from your mask after each dive you should practice attaching your snorkel, as it can be a little tricky. Alternately, you can leave your snorkel attached to your mask if you are diving more than once in a day. "

No need to use soap or fancy cleaners for snorkel or dive gear. The important thing is just to get the salt off, and plain old fresh water will do the trick. The best way to clean your gear, is to fill a bucket or a tub with warm water, and then dunk your gear several times to rinse it out thoroughly. In some cases I like to swish it around underwater, and maybe rub the rubber parts to ensure a thorough rinsing. After that, let it drip dry and store it in a cool, dry, *dark* place. Salt and sunlight are the two things that'll kill your gear in no time at all, keep it safe from that and it should provide good use for a long time.

A scuba tank is design to hold a certain volume of air, at a particular at a particular temperature. In the US, the standard tank is an aluminum 80 CF tank. At room temperature and 3,000 psi, the tank holds 72 CF of air (yeah, I know they round up calling it 80 CF tank). When you are filling the tank, the air and tank will become warm/hot. If you check the pressure guage while the tank is warm, it will give you a reading of X. Once the tank cools, it will give you a reading that is less than X. They put the tanks in the water in the hopes of keeping the temperature do, and filling the tanks closer to the design pressure and temperature. Some examples that you can see... In Mexico, many of the tanks will be sitting in the sun while on the boat. The tank may have a reading of 3,200 psi. Once you jump in the water, and the tank cools down, the new reading may be 2,800 psi without ever breathing any of the air. I have been ice diving, the tank was acutally colder than the water. Since the water temperature was warmer than the tank, me pressure reading was slightly higher.

Any preesurised gas container should be visually inspected annually (at least) and pressure tested every 5 years, 3 years or annually according to local law. If you are going to have it tested, screw the valve in loosely as they will need to examine the threads on it in order to pass the tank and valve as a unit. BUT ALL THAT ASIDE, the answer to your original question is: Replace the tank neck O-ring, very lightly lube the threads of the valve with a SCUBA silicon grease, wind the valve in to finger tight (if you have a torque wrench you could find out setting) if no torque wrench, nip the valve tight with a light tap from a rubber mallet on a 12" wrench (I know it is a bit approximate, but the O-ring makes the seal, not the tightness)

There are four main variables affecting this: 1. The (total) internal volume of the tank(s) 2. The pressure to which that tank has been filled 3. The ambient pressure at depth 4. The rate at which the diver uses the air out of that tank for their breathing and buoyancy control (including drysuit inflation). The first three are simply a matter of physics and will be the same for everyone under the same circumstances. The major variation comes from the last one, which is usually a function of the diver's experience/ competence (not the same thing!). One who is less so will go through air quicker than one who is more so. So the best answer for your question is "It depends..."! However, many resorts and guides set a maximum dive time of one hour, so they know when to expect a diver back on the boat (or, when they have to call out the Coastguard!). This might be the source of your friend's assertion. FYI: The current world record for breathing off a single tank of air while sitting at the bottom of a swimming pool is a little bit short of 8 hours. The divers in question were using 12-litre cylinders charged to 200B and breathing verrrry slowly! (approximately 12 x 200 litres / 460 minutes = 5.22 l/min)