Im assuming that--
you waited long enough for the valve to open
you used the manual lever to check for flow
same thermostat
boiler isn't off on reset
theres power to the boiler
Do you hear the valve energize? If not--
The orange wires are interchangeable so it dosnt matter. the zone valve is normally closed so it wont open unless it gets power from a call for heat. Follow the blue and brown wires down to the control and make sure they aren't cracked. Check for water in control panel. Pull relay and look for small soot mark inside (blown).If wires have been spliced at any point remove wire nuts restrip wire and use NEW wire nuts to reconnect.At control remove wires one at a time clip and strip and reconnect. make sure the wire is wrapped around screw and tighten. If valve still isn't opening check the corresponding TT terminal connections clip and strip and reconnect.Still no water? With wires removed jump the TT terminals. If it powers after at least 15 sec then it may be either you thermostat or the wire going to it.
It could also be on the water side. If the plunger inside the valve body is stuck closed or clogged you can either isolate and drain the zone, remove the brass plug and dig around or buy a zone valve WITH the brass body. isolate and drain the zone, sweat off the old one and sweat on a new one. I know...good times :-{
SOURCE: I've tried to install a
the colors aren't all that important. make sure the letters on the thermostat and the letters on the furnace control board have the same wire connected. that's all you need to do.
SOURCE: I have Bryant HRV and the motor has failed.
Wire nut and tape the blue and red wires they are not used.
SOURCE: cannot get central heating working,for honeywell ST6400 programme
with y plan 3 connections on programmer HW on HW off CH on HW on to cylinder stat then HW call to Orange on Mvalve to power boiler and pump HW off to grey wire on Mvalve to close hot water CH to room stat common then heating call to white on Mvalve
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