How do you get to the back of the evaportor to attach the coil from the new thermastat.. There is permnently mounted foam insulation.. Can you remove the insulation. Or, Can you somehow take the new thermastat a part to attach the new thermastat to the old coil.

you don't as to do that will loose all the gas and you will be in a bigger cost zone than having a technician fix it

Not good... no way.

That is an old time symptom of an inadequate refrigerant charge. The foam insulation rapidly loses any effectiveness when saturated.

Fact is... refrigerant lines leaving the compressor ought to be too warm to be attracting condensation...

Frost is highly problematic (as is water dripping anywhere inside the house).

Hope that helps!

If you have enough room behind the stud wall install 1" rigid foam tape seams and then use the thickest possible roxsul insulation to fill the studs. Or axe the foam and install 6mil plastic on warm side of the wall after insulating tape all seams when done.

The defrost water is not draining maybe. Check the drain is what I would do. Allow the box to completely thaw out and clear that defrost drain of objects then crank her back up and see .

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

REMOVE REAR SEAT AND PACKAGE SHELF TO GAIN ACCESS TO THE UPPER SHOCK ATTACHING NUTS.REMOVE UPPER ATTACHING NUTS. RAISE VECHICLE REMOVE REAR WHEEL AND SUPPORT THE LOWER CONTROL ARM WITH A JACK REMOVE LOWER SHOCK ABSORBER MOUNTING BOLT. REMOVE SHOCK ABSORBER ASSEMBLY FROM THE VECHICLE. COMPRESS THE COIL SPRING WITH THE PROPER SPRING COMPRESSOR TOOL. REMOVE CENTER RETAINING NUT HOLDING THE UPPER MOUNTING INSULATOR. SLOWLY DECOMPRESS THE COIL SPRING.REMOVE THE MOUNTING INSULATOR AND THE COIL SPRING. REMOVE THE COIL SPRING. TO INSTALL COMPRESSED COIL SPRING ONTO THE STRUT ASSEMBLY. BE SURE TO THE END OF THE SPRING IS IN THE NOTCH ON THE LOWER SEAT.INSTALL UPPER MOUNTING INSULATOR. YOU WILL NEW LOCKNUT FOR THE CENTER RETAINING NUT OF THE COIL SPRING. CENTER RETAINING NUT AND TORQUE THE NUT TO 13 TO 17 FT LBS. SLOWLY REMOVE THE SPRING COMPRESSOR TOOL. INSTALL SHOCK ABSORBER ASSEMBLY IN THE VECHICLE AND INSTALL THE MOUNTING FASTERNERS AND TORQUE LOWER MOUNTING BOLTS TO 72 - 87 FT LBS. INSTALL WHEEL.LOWER VECHICLE. WARNING COIL SPRING UNDER EXTREME LOADS WHEN COMPRESSED.BESURE TO PROPERLY ALIGN THE SPRING WITH THE COMPRESSING TOOL TO PREVENT PERSONAL INJURY FROM THE SPRING RELEASING UNEXPECTEDLY.

Hi, please not that there is an insulator between the carb and motor that my have its own attachments. You will may find this out if you undo the bolts of the carb. There is also the possibility that the tread for the mounting bolts are stripped. If this is the case the bolts will need replacing. If the engine head mount for the carb is stripped you need to install a heli-coil. To do this, you must first drill out the old thread with the size bit of the new coil (carefull not to drill too far). Then, thread the new hole with the appropriate tap size and finally, drive the coil into the freshly tapped hole with some locking adhesive. This will allow you to thread the carb to the head securely again. Good luck.

Your defrost circuit has failed. Typical problem is the heating element fails. It is mounted to your coil. Use a meter to check if the heating element is open, if they are, replacing the heating element should solve your problem.

older fridges used fiber glass insulation(didn't carry sound)...new fridges use hard foam(much better insulation but carries sound a lot more)when you push handles you dampen the sound... not to worry it's normal just keep all coils clean

Installation

1. CAUTION: The bearing and seal assembly is press-fit onto the upper mount. The mount washers must be installed in the correct orientation.
   NOTE: Be sure to check the spring insulator for damage before assembly. If the outer metal splash shield is bent or damaged, it must be carefully bent back, so it does not touch the locator on the bearing and seal assembly.
   
   NOTE: New gas struts are shipped with the rod in a locked down position. To extend the new strut, remove the external tie down and/or rotate the upper end of the rod, counterclockwise.
   
   Install the coil spring insulator, coil spring, and upper mounting parts to the new strut assembly. Make sure the spring is correctly seated in both spring seats.
   

Item Part Number Description 1 — Dust Boot (Part of 18045) 2 N803826-S100 Front Shock Absorber Mounting Bracket Nut
(3 Req'd) 3 N803952-S100 Washer 4 N808625-S100 Front Shock Absorber Nut 5 18183 Front Shock Absorber Mounting Bracket 6 3B455 Front Suspension Bearing and Seal 7 5310 Front Coil Spring 8 5414 Front Spring Insulator 9 18045 Front Shock Absorber A — Tighten to 35-40 Nm
(25-30 Lb-Ft) B — Tighten to 55-63 Nm
(40-46 Lb-Ft)

1. CAUTION: Do not over tighten the lock nut; damage to the lock nut or piston rod could result.
   Install new rod lock nut and tighten it to 55-63 Nm (40-46 lb-ft).
   

1. Remove the spring compressing tool.
   

1. Position the strut assembly into the vehicle. Install the three mount-to-strut tower nuts. Tighten the nuts to 35-40 Nm (25-30 lb-ft).
   

1. Partially raise the hoist.
   

1. Position the strut assembly to the steering knuckle. Install the pinch bolt and tighten it to 115-132 Nm (85-97 lb-ft).
   

1. Position the stabilizer link to the strut assembly and install the retaining nut. Tighten the nut to 90-100 Nm (66-74 lb-ft).
   

1. Install the front wheel and tire assembly.
   

1. Lower the vehicle.
   

OMG ROFL!!!

Well... here's an idea.

Drill a 1/2 inch hole where you punctured the wall of the freezer, make sure you don't hit the coils. Then goto lowes/home depot and get that expansion foam that is used to insulate windows and holes in houses. Grab a razor blade and scalp off the excess after it's dried. Now cover the foam on the inside of the freezer with 2 part epoxy or "shoe goo" or e6000 (these are the toughest glues I have ever used) which is available at a hobby shop. Make sure you do a test with the foam and the glue on cardboard first to make sure the glue won't eat at the foam.

Are you sure you punctured the coil? If you did you can goto an auto part place and ask for a compression fitting (most commonly used to repair brake lines on cars) for what ever tube size the coil is, use a fine ruler is the best. Then you can repair the coil by using a pipe cutter to cut the coil and put it back together with the compression fitting. Now call the appliance service guys and have them come out and recharge the system.

Fixed, total cost... about $50 bucks

Other solution, replace entire fridge, total cost $$$$$