I realize the above question is almost 4 years old, but I am sure others are still having this problem. My Danby was behaving the same way: drying cycle light would flash like it was having a myocardial infarction, and the cycle would stop. I could only get the light to stop flashing by turning the unit off. What you didn\'t say above is what happens then: everything most likely returns to normal-- or at least, so it seems. I have now had this happen to me two times in a row with my Danby 1899WP. Each time the machine has started up just fine, drains water out, loads in fresh water, and begins the wash cycle, only to freeze up with that damn flashing red light on the dry cycle and the dishes not clean. I have owned it for about two months, and so far this is my only complaint. I am running it again right now, for the third time, and we shall see what that light does now.... Will report back afterward!
So much for that idea. As near as I can tell this rapidly flashing light indicates that there is something wrong with the control panel. Looks like I am going to have to take her apart and see what the problem is. Shoot.
Update: I tried running the machine with a packet of dishwasher treatment powder inside, and it began to look like the problem had been solved: was able to run a few loads of dishes with no problem. But then the flashing light happened again. I noticed that the flashing light is co-occurring with the soap dispenser box not opening, so the next time I tried to run a load I opened this box manually (i.e., i loaded everything up as though I was going to run a load, started the cycle, then as the washing began I paused the machine, opened this box, re-closed the main door, and pressed the pause button again). It appears the machine is once again operating correctly. I am now suspicious that the red light is connected to a failure of the detergent dispenser to operate correctly. This could be a mechanical problem (a sticky dispenser) or an electrical one (short somewhere). Time will tell...
Further update: I bought some "Lemi Shine" dishwasher cleaner/ detergent enhancer, and ran a load with this inside the machine. I also bought the salt crystals and added them to the secret compartment in the bottom in the back left of the inside of the washer compartment. I filled the rinse aid compartment with rinse aid. I ran the machine a few times by pouring some hot, hot water into the washing compartment prior to running a load, and let the machine pump this water out completely before doing any dishes. I do not know which of these things made a difference, but the spastic red light has ceased to bother me and the machine is back to working the way it was before all this started. My approach was not exactly scientific-- for that I apologize. But something I did seems to have worked. To the rest of the world, I say, "Drive on! Best of luck!!!"
While we are on the subject of this machine, I would also like to encourage people to consider disabling the buzzer that signals the cycle is complete. It is painfully annoying, and doesn\'t tell me anything I can\'t tell by looking at the thing myself. I unplugged the machine (VERY IMPORTANT!), unscrewed the front panel, took out the silicon board that has the buzzer on it (a black cylinder, pretty obvious), and with a pair of pliers I ripped that little bugger right off. I then replaced the board into the door, re-screwed the screws, and plugged the machine back in. It now works just as well as before but no longer insists that I come check on it when it is done washing the dishes. SO much less painful this way!
I know this is an old post but, THANK YOU for the ideas. I've only used my machine 3 times. After sitting unused for several months, I am having the same problem you did.
I had this same problem after using ours for 2.5 years. I recommend unscrewing (with your hand) and thoroughly cleaning all of the filters at the bottom of the dishwasher. The beeping in this dishwasher in general seems to occur mainly when there is a problem with water flow (like also occurs when I forget to turn the water on from the sink!). In the case of the problem mentioned by all above, the beeping seems to occur in response to poor flow out of the dishwasher, caused by a clogged filter (especially the fine filter that sits within the filter chamber below). Take everything out, scrub it down and it should fix the issue.
The problem is with a design flaw. Underneath the dishwasher is a plastic bottom. It allows water to catch in the inside of this even though it has tiny drain holes(middle sags). If it fills up even with the washer draining, it will cause the overfill to not register it has drained. Tilting it backwards should allow enough water to drain from the holes that you can use it again. I mounted mine with a space under the dishwasher and I have to push up on the plastic area that's drooping and turn on the machine. It drains and then will work as designed. My biggest issue is there must be mildew growing inside the area, as we have had a little weird smell. I could drill a small hole but believe this may leak all the time during use.
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SOURCE: what is the funnel thing
The "funnel thing" is exactly what it looks like- a funnel. It's for adding the salt to the water softener located on the "floor" of the dishwasher:)
SOURCE: Water not flowing into Danby 18"
Okay, this might seem crazy, but it worked. I spent the last 2 days trying to contact Danby customer service to no avail, so I came back here to look for solutions. Found two:
(1) Someone said to open the little rubber cover under the front right of the machine...I couldn't find such a cover.
(2) Someone said to pull off the front plastic panel...mine doesn't seem to be removeable.
So! I turned my Danby DDW1805 upside-down (!) to see if I could locate the aforementioned rubber cover, and a bunch of water drained out of the machine. This is what both solutions above said I wanted to happen, so I flipped it back right-side up and hooked it back onto my faucet.
Golden. Works perfectly again.
SOURCE: Danby Dishwasher stuck in drain cycle after wrong soap use
There might be water in the overflow sensor. I unloaded the dishwasher and lifted the front so the dishwasher rested on its back. There's a narrow gray tube that runs down from the bottom right of the door. The tube runs into a white piece of plastic with some wires coming out of it. There is a rubber plug that covers a nipple on the plastic. Pull the rubber plug off. Mine was quite tight. Tip the dishwasher back onto its casters to drain the water from the overflow. Check to see if the dishwasher functions normally, then put the rubber plug back on.
SOURCE: i have a ddw1899wp danby i have a green power
It is possible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errors or feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main program controller must initiate the INLET/PUMP MOTOR/DRAIN to work when it is commanded .If this does not happen then the voltage at these points must be checked or the fault relates to no voltage/drive from the controller. This means the controller is a suspect. Check how to remove the control panel: http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/dishwashers/a/3/1287/how-to-replace-a-hotpoint-dishwasher-fascia-p.html If the water flows then the flow should be good, if not the inlet valve is bad or there is dirt in the filter. Also check the flow at the inlet of the water line. What is most important for the motor to start functioning is that the door switch must be ON when the door is shut or this will be an error for starting the motor. The water pressure must be good and the spraying must be seen to be good. If there is low pumping or pressure then the spray arms will not turn around to inject with pressure. If so the pump must be checked for clogging.
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