Washer will not spin. it will fill then immediatly empty,3 time no spin or wash. belt is on, motor spins freely, the timer does move with cycle but fast kenmore 41743142200

Sure sounds like your timer has bit the dust. I'm not sure if the timer is still available. You have a great washer there. Good luck.

Timer issue is my guess

Broken or slipping drive belt or faulty wash motor.?

I have had similar situation with my top load washer over the years. It has been the timer 3 times and the water pump 1 time.
How I came up with it being the timer. The knob which you set it on the type wash you want. Put it on a different cycle and see if it completes the wash cycle. example if my washer is not working when I put it on heavy wash cycle I might put it on the casual wash cycle. If you change the wash cycle and it goes through the complete cycle it is probably the timer which is part of the knob you change for different wash cycles with.
If it stops when it is time to empty the tub on all cycles it may be the water pump which empties the tub. The one time I had a problem with the water pump it was a small piece of coal had the pump locked up. I never figured how it got out of the tub and to the pump but I put it back together and it worked fine.
It should not go into the spin cycle if the tub is full of water.
Two of the timers I bought cost 40 - 60 dollars. One was 140 dollars I bought a new washer that time because the washer only cost 220 dollars.

Hello Deanna - This particular issue could be caused by a variety of reasons. I would suggest trying the following steps:

1) Verify a circuit breaker isn't tripped

2) Advance the timer control dial slowly 360 degrees-

If the washer starts spinning, then that means the motor and drive belt are fine but that there is something wrong with either the timer control dial or the agitator solenoid. Call in a professional for this.

If the washer doesn't budge, then verify that the drive belt(s) is attached and not broken by removing the back panel. If the belt is broken, replace it. If it is loose, then tighten it by loosening up the bolt holding the motor and moving it on its swingarm (much like a car alternator) until there is a 1/2 to 3/4 inch deflection in the belt.
Some washers use reversing motors. It's possible the motor works on the spin cycle but not on the wash cycle. If so, call a pro.

3) Visually inspect the lid safety switch- Is it loose or cracked? If so, the washer might work intermittently, stopping at different cycles.

4) Check motor and drive belt- Remove the main access panel (usually in the back). Is the motor spinning, but the drive belt isn't? If so, then you have a drive belt problem.

If it will not spin either, but the motor does run, the motor coupler has failed. It is also possible the transmission has a problem, but the motor coupler is more than likely the problem. This model does not use a belt, it uses the coupler instead.

When the cycle doesn't advance, it's probably the timer or a cold-water supply problem:

• It's the timer, if your washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer never advances--or if the washer is in a spin cycle and the timer won't advance. Then you need to replace the timer.



• It may be a cold-water supply problem, if the washing machine fills with water, agitates, drains, and spins, but then doesn't fill with rinse water. See There's no cold water.

as you mentioned timer advances,then check out cold water entering the machine or not. If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin
It pumps, but doesn't spin
It spins only with the lid closed
It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

• If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.



• If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

• The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.



• The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.



• A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)



• The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.



• The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.



• The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.



• The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.

It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.

it will fill but won,t spin, will throw out water as if it washed, then it take water to rinse but won,t spin ,then will throw out water as if it did , but clothes are soaked

My Maytag Performa was making the loud squealing noise. I changed out the water pump/bearing, took care of the problem.
Putting a new belt on just help burn up the bearing (they needed replacing) and probably ruined the new belt. Probably seized the water pump bearing and the belt jumped and broke the motor pully. A washing machine motor is very strong, when that h20 pump bearing seized (or possibly some bearings jamed up) the motor kept on turning that belt and the plastic pully gave in. You'll need to replace that also. If the h20 pumb bearing is turning freely, likely the bearings jammed up but or now loose. That bearing should be tight, no slack or play in it. You can probably wobble the pully on it all around while turning it. The slightest slack is too much.

Could be a worn belt,
Empty the machine and tilt backwards, you may need some help to do this.
Remove the belt and check, some times these appear OK but may have stretched.
Chech the agitator pully, try to rotate, will only move in one direction, see agitator moving as you do, get the person helping you to see this.
Check the motor moves freely on the tensioner, motor will appear to move 2".
Fit a new belt and try.