Same problem w mine and yes if you take the cover off the inside display you will be able to remove the board mine has a hole burnt in it.unplug harness w red blue and brown wires and jump and jump from brown to red unit will turn on you need a new board
just an update resoldered back of pc board, damaged area was obvious,re-installed pc board unit works perfect. this is a two minute fix once board is removed from inside of unit inside light and temp control houseing.
I had the same problem, you are correct, the solder was a simple fix. I was also able to find the pc board on line as well for $55.00.
Thanks Dodge1up. 1 blackened pin with no solder on it. After putting solder on it and putting it back together. Compressor came on. Such a simple fix...once you know where to look.
Same problem - removed the circuit board, found one burnt connection. A simple dollop of solder and the compressor kicked back on. TeeEssGee 1, Planned Obsolescence 0.
Where was the burnt connection? I seem to have a few spots that look blacker than others?
Awesome, same problem but this fixed it!
I replaced my board (which I've already done before a while back), but the unit doesn't appear to be cooling? It's running again, but there is an occasional "click" & no temperature drop? Suggestions?
Pulled my board after replacing the ptc, I did the jump and everything started up. I am looking at the board and unfortunately no black or missing solder.
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I have a Magic Chef MCWC50DST model purchased about 6 years ago from Home Depot that just died one night. I replaced the starter relay - no joy. I followed the jumper instructions above (control board - wired the brown to red wire) and determined the problem was the control board. After removing the control board the problem was obvious - burned connection. I used my old solder iron to add a new bead to the connection, re-installed the board and it started right up! Thanks for the advice
Same problem. Easy Fix. Thanks for the insight and saving me a bunch of $$$. Cool (pun intended).
Thanks, I took mine out, did not find anything on the board but one joint looked less than stellar so soldered that , and when I took the board out found a piece of the metal casing resting on the board crossing a circuit. Works now, so will never know if removing metal that fell out of the hole where the wires come through of if the solder did the job but its running.
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You guys are amazing. Had the same issue. Took longer to gather up the supplies. Two minutes to heat up the soldering iron and the board was fixed. Amazing. Thanks
You guys are amazing. Had the same issue. Took longer to gather up the supplies. Two minutes to heat up the soldering iron and the board was fixed. Amazing. Thanks
Would it be possible to not replace board and just leave the jump? I would then put fridge on 24 hour timer to go on for 30 min then off 30 min etc.
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I had the exact same problem that Butch Howard had. Based on his post I took the control board out and flipped it over - same solder joint was missing. I replaced it - put the fridge back together and it turned on. 12 hours later - nice and cold and running fine. If you have a problem with this fridge you should start here!
Thanks!
MZ
I replaced starter relay also, but not the problem. Unit works until temperature setting reached, then shuts down. If I bang on unit or restart, unit works until temperature reached. Control board looks and works okay. What else can I try?
Found part of the answer to my problem. Wires on the 3-wire connector near the light bulb were loose. Pushed in one or two wires and unit turned on. Testing now to see if temperature holds.
The connector was not the final problem. When I press on the relay, PN JQX-102F-P, the unit starts or stops. Something is wrong with the part or board. Replacing board, PN WBS-165-1.
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Can you jump the red and brown wire plugged in into the circuit board?
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