U-Line BI-95 Icemaker. Water is to the valve, Arm is flipped down, Setting is at the coldest, When Unit is Switched on - it gurgles a little and then runs for hours but stays @ 55 degrees and won't cool to make ice. No apparent leaks anywhere, Any ideas on what is happening or a solution?

SOURCE: U-Line BI-98 How to Remove Ice Maker Unit??

i need a manual for an everstar undercounter icemaker hd1m35 by franklin ind.
will not make ice all mode lights lit up

SOURCE: U Line CLR60 Ice Maker gets stuck in harvest mode & melts ice

have you got the equipment to change this solenoid valve? you will need a vacuum pump to evacuate the system once you have changed the valve, and the equipment to charge the system with refrigerant (gas).

SOURCE: Give-me plis a wiring digram manual of the Ice

Your going to call U-line and ask for it. 800-779-2547. Now what are you trying to do? I can give you the wires on the thermostat. Terminal 1 is red(icemaker) Terminal 2 is yellow(common) Terminal 3 is blue/black(compressor and cond fan motor) When yellow and blue or black are closed this will run the compressor and fan.Thermostat is satisfied then the red and yellow are closed and it advances the icemaker. Ejector blade at the 12 oclock calls for freeze cycle. at 2 calls for heater to come on(inside icamaker) at 10 oclock it trios the water switch and calls for water.Then back at 12 oclock calls for freeze cycle. Temps should be 10-15 degrees in the bucket. Warmer the setting the more ice it makes.

SOURCE: U line BI 95 icemaker is making but not ejecting made Ice

First thing to do is find the temp in the bucket. Should be between 10-15 degrees. If its colder then try turning the thermostat to a warmer setting. If its warmer than this then the unit is not getting cold enough. Look at the cendenser to make sure that its clean. If thats good you might have to check the thermostat. (if its 10-15 deg) Check the wiring. red goes on terminal1 yellow on 2 and blue /black on 3. The control might not be switching to harvest position. Wait until you hear the compressor and fan shut down then look at the icemaker. If not advancing then replace the thermostat.

SOURCE: fridge-side not cold enough

A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

• The defrost timer
  
  
• The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)
  
  
• The defrost heater