No picture Samsung DLP HL-R5667

SOURCE: SMASUNG DLP 50 HDTV

The ballast that powers the lamp is bad

SOURCE: SAmsung DLP Model # HZN617WX/XAA

I was having flickering, and then blackout, overeat and lamp led's blinking. I figured it was all dusty inside. I pulled the back cover, removed the screws holding the light housing in. (3) brass screws are visible through smaller door opening, top left screw holds light box, screws along bottom holds ballast board in, took top left screw out, pulled light box out, had plug on bottom side, very nice. Then I lifted the board out, it has (2) plugs to it, 1 big two wire plug outside edge of board, I removed this plug to pull out the ballast board, removed visable dust, then replaced board, visually no burned connections or resistors, tighhtened screws to secure board, reversed all disssembly actions in order above, dusting as I went. All good so far put the cover back on so the blue switch behind it is in the down pos. helpful info for testing, power on w/small door removed, (trip switch to down position gently) will allow you to test before final closing !!!!DANGEROUS!!!! but useful for the trouble shooting I could have avoided later see why. Do at your own risk, I was fine but I only touched what i knew wasnt live, screws and plastic cover to lightbulb box. I did final closing and tried it out. NOTHING, Oh my what have I done, I took a 20 min. break and gathered my thoughts. I went back in, I got more light on the area I was in, the other smaller plug w/wires I didn't detail earlier now comes into play, it's a 5 wire mini white clip plug 4-white, 1 blue at end of clip, it was still plugged in on the ballast end but on the opposite end of the wire, unplugged. So small I could'nt find recepticle for it, looked in the area of where it was laying (it ran up to the top of a silver cover w/ holes allover) Almost all the way to the right on top of the holed panel was a plug. I took apart the fan assembly (after that there are three spring loaded screws, holding cooling fins to the panel, very light tension, nothing pops out, but dont lose the springs when you pull the screws out) to remove that panel because the wire group wasn't long and had a clear plastic sleeve over it and I knew it went somwhere, tilted the holed panel toward me and saw the plug (very sneaky), plugged it in (it only goes one way) and reassembled the fan assembly which may not have needed to be disassembled, but made it easier I'm sure. I didn't take the light or ballast out this time, so it was easier. Now the trick from earlier, I plugged it in and gently engaged the small blue switch to the down position. Asked assistant to power on while I held the switch down to check airflow, light coming on, ballast firing, all good ,everything worked and great. Powered down at the main switch, waited about 1 1/2 minutes until fan stopped, reinstalled cover, powered back up, good as new. maybe that plug became somehow dislodged on yours, unknowingly as mine did because of the similar symptoms no picture, no sound and repeated attempts to fire. I was extremely careful it still was not enough. It fixed it though. Scoundrel to savior all in the same day, nice. Take a look to see if that wire was removed some how and try to plug it back in. If not, sorry, I was so happy I wanted to help someone else save some money if possible. I repeat, I do not condone the removal of the cover as pertaining to warranty concerns or safety. I did, but I may have been the lucky or crazy one. It worked for me and I would do it again and better next time.

SOURCE: Samsung DLP HL-S5087W 56" Confused...

Mine did that when the color wheel didn't spin up...just give it a whack where you installed the light & the wheel should spin up. I had to replace my color wheel as the bearing was shot & was buzzing all the time. The light won't come on if the wheel doesn't spin up first.

SOURCE: blinking lights on the power button

replace the lamp.

SOURCE: tv turns off after 5 sec.

I have over 10 years experience in electronic tech support.

I know this isn't what you want to hear, but the problem you've described can't be fixed with troubleshooting. Your TV will have to be repaired. There is a part that has developed a defect and needs to be replaced. If you're still in warranty, the TV will be repaired at no charge to you. The warranty would likely be at least one year from the date of purchase from the manufacturer. If you purchased an extended service plan they will repair the TV at no charge as well.

If the TV is no longer in warranty, it will likely cost a minimum of $150 parts and labor. This is assuming that you only need one circuit board or small part. If the problem is more than one of the circuit boards, the price of repair could go much higher.

I hope I've provided you useful assistance and that this information allows you to make an informed decision as to how to proceed from here. Please be sure to vote on my response. I hope I've earned a good rating from you today.

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