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Ray Johnson Posted on Oct 19, 2019
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Need to lower both fridge and freezer temps.comp.coils still not getting hot

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Jorgie Navito

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  • Refrigerators Master 357 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 12, 2020
Jorgie Navito
Refrigerators Master
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Joined: Sep 26, 2009
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Normally if the coild are not getting hot its due to a lack of Freon in system. As the condenser coils get hot due to liquafication as the Freon goes from liquid to gas it creates heat which then makes could hot, so sorry don't understand ur question. the temp control is adjusted by the cold control thermostat


need to lower both fridge and freezer temps.comp.c - control box fridge1-undefined-undefined-0_0.jpg


5 Related Answers

A

Anonymous

  • Posted on Jul 13, 2008

SOURCE: Temp

I've had my Samsung RS267 LASH side by side for almost 2 years now and the coils froze recently. The temperatures displayed - relating to the refirgerator side - bounce around when the coils freeze. My freezer thank goodness is still working properly. The repairman indicated that the heating element for the refrigerator coils was bad. Unfortunately he had to order the whole unit (coils, heating element, etc.) since he couldn't replace just the one part. Samsung takes their time sending the parts - we've been waiting for 10 days now. The Samsung warranty covers the compressor, evaporator, condensor, drier and connecting tube for 5 years parts and labor so we should becovered. You might be covered as well - depending on when you purchased your refrigerator. I did purchase a separate extended warranty from Lowes when I bought the refrigerator and I'm glad I did. My extended warranty included $250 in food spoilage covering our food loss due to the breakdown. Hope this helps......

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Anonymous

  • 750 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 29, 2008

SOURCE: fridge/freezer not cool.

Hello
Welcome to fixya.
I'm Huuum and happy to assist you,

I believe your problem is an old thermostat or compressor !
How old is it?

My advice is do not put good money into bad!
A new fridge will pay for itself in a few years by using a lot less electricity!

Here is an interesting report I just read!

Repair or replace?

When to pull the plug on your old refrigerator

It nearly always makes sense to undertake simple do-it-yourself repairs,
such as replacing a gasket on a refrigerator or a freezer.

Typically, you'll also find a troubleshooting section for more-serious problems
in the owner's manual.

Should you pay for a repair or buy a new model?
The answer depends mostly on the age of your refrigerator,
how much you bought it for,and the cost of the repair.

Follow these guidelines:

When a repair makes sense.

If your refrigerator is under warranty or less than four years old (three years for top-freezers),
paying for a repair makes sense.
Note that refrigerators under warranty might require service from a factory-authorized technician;
readers have found them on a par with independent repairers.

When a repair might be a wise choice.

If your refrigerator is out of warranty and is four to seven years old,
it might make sense to pay for a repair. Customers generally pay $100 to $200 for a repair.
But you might want to buy a new model even at this stage,
given that today's models are quieter and have added features.
Higher energy efficiency is another plus: Energy Star-qualified models made after April 28, 2008,
are 43 percent more efficient than conventional models built before 2001 and 56 percent
more efficient than those built before 1993.

When it pays to replace.

The repair costs more than half the price of a comparable new refrigerator.
Data also shows that it doesn't pay to fix a less-expensive top-freezer refrigerator
six or more years old or a bottom-freezer or side-by-side eight or more years old.

Thanks to better recycling programs, less than 10 percent
of a refrigerator you replace is likely to end up in a landfill.
Thanks for giving me the opportunity to help!

Please remember to leave me a rating before you sign off!
Thank You, HUUUM

carldc3

carl carpenter

  • 82 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 12, 2009

SOURCE: the coils are frozen solid in freezer behind back wall

frozen coils not always means freon problem. low air flow across evaporator coils could cause freeze up. if door is opened and closed an abnormal amount could cause a freeze up or even something pushed up against the air intake in the refridgerator. i would thaw it out completely and restart it, theres a chance it was nothing major. good luck

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jun 21, 2009

SOURCE: GE TFX26KRDA WW 2001 side by side refrig/freezer w warm fridge

Cleaned the condenser coils which were dusty but not severely so. Checked the evaporator coils which were NOT iced. Reset the fridge to coldest setting and freezer to #5 (mid range of temperature) and waited a full 36 hours. Fridge temp is 40 F and freezer is about 0F. Not sure what is different except coldest setting on fridge. Warm weather is here but not warm enough to require AC. Temps in late afternoon in house about 77-80F. Any thoughts are appreciated because I suspect this problem is not completely resolved.

Anonymous

  • 1622 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 01, 2010

SOURCE: Freezer and fridge of GE

Hello, Sandra

The answer to these questions lies in the way the freezer/fridge combo works. The freezer is where the cooling coils are located. Then air is moved over the coils and circulated through the fridge side by a small blower or fan. The problem arises when the air is not circulated for some reason.

The reasons the air is not moving is usually two reasons
The fan or blower has failed.
The coil is covered over with ice and blocks the air flow.

The first reason is pretty simple to fix, you simply replace the air circulator and things are good again.
The second reason can be more difficult.
1. The timing device that runs the defrost cycle of the refrigerator is defective.
2. The heater coil that melts the water is shorted or not working

Usually the first thing to check is the heater coil. If there is resistance through the coil then most likely it is still good.
The timing device can be an advanced defrost control board or a mechanical timing device.
If the heater coil checks out to be good then the problem should be the timer.

For most situations, unplugging the refrigerator and allowing it to defrost on it's own will get you going temporarily, till parts can be shipped to you. That will melt the ice and give you a few days or a couple of weeks till it ices up to the point where it will not work again.

So you can see that the problem can usually be traced to one of three things.
The fan or blower
The timer device
The electric heater coil
By methodically checking these parts you can isolate your problem and fix it.

Hope this help out in solving the problem. Take care

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My GE fridge PSi23SGNA BS freezer defrosted.

Condenser fan should be about 1300 rpm, I believe!
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New fridge freezer isgetting very hot on both

This heat is normal. The refrigerator you have in your kitchen will have the condenser coils which get very hot on the bottom or back of the frig. A deep freeze has the condenser coils inside the walls of the freezer. Hot temps are normal when it is running.

Try to leave an inch or so of space around it for air flow and that will help.
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Second level freezing food cant adjust and it has water under it

The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. Make sure this fan is running. You may have to hold the door switch in for it to run. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp.
The problem could be the electronic control if you have one or the mechanical linkages.
Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.


Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.
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My refrigerator is freezing inside the cooling section also there is water dripping inside the cooling section

The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp and Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.


Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.

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GE TFX26KRDA WW 2001 side by side refrig/freezer w warm fridge

Cleaned the condenser coils which were dusty but not severely so. Checked the evaporator coils which were NOT iced. Reset the fridge to coldest setting and freezer to #5 (mid range of temperature) and waited a full 36 hours. Fridge temp is 40 F and freezer is about 0F. Not sure what is different except coldest setting on fridge. Warm weather is here but not warm enough to require AC. Temps in late afternoon in house about 77-80F. Any thoughts are appreciated because I suspect this problem is not completely resolved.
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Freezer not maintaining temp

sounds like the evap thermistor took a ****. in the back of your freezer you have cover that sits over the refrigerator coil. under this coil sits a heater element that is turned on and off to defrost the refrigerator coil based on how long you've had the door open. the evap thermistor reads the temp inside the freezer.. close to the refrigerator coil.. and tells the heater element to turn off after it reaches a set temp where it can be sure that the ice has melted off the refrigeration coil which is about 60 deg. if your thermistor has taken a ****.. your heater element will only shut off based on the "fail safe" time (which is based on how long you've had your fridge door open) leading to a hot freezer.
i suspect your at home more on the weekend.. inside the fridge.. getting cold beers.. and that is why it ends up hotter on the weekend.
Cheers!
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Ice building up on freezer coils

sounds like the fan for the freezer is not working
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Fan is working on fridge, temperature is set correctly but fridge not cooling. the compressor boiling hot.

is the compressor fan working and the freezer fan working also? if you have a meter you can do a amp draw on the comp.,it sounds like the comp. being so hot your coils under the frig. are real dirty or the comp is about to lra out(burn out) let me know more-mike
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Hot point Fridge/ freezer

All the cooling is in the freezer and the control in the fridge side only controls a damper to let in cold air as needed. To do what you want you have to replace the thermostat to a lower temp rated unit
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Freezer works fine but the fridge won't get cold

It sounds like cold air from the freezer isn't making it to the fridge compartment. This can be cause by a several things. The damper that lets air into the fresh food side is stuck in "closed" position, the temp sensor (t-stat) isn't working properly, the evaporator fan (in the freezer comp above the coils) isn't working to blow air up to the fresh food section. In some situations, the defrost cycle for the freezer section isn't working and the coils have frozen into a block of ice and air can't flow over them properly so you get not cold air to the fresh food section but the freezer still stays cold due to the block of ice.
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