Dryer heats with power off? All I have to do is plug it in and it stars heating Model de27cw1 Seems to run ok though the normal cyle but continues t heat when shut down and plugged in.

SOURCE: Dryer will not heat

The problem you are experiencing may be your thermal fuse which is located on the heater box where the heating element is enclosed. It is highly recommended to replace the high limit thermostat at the same time. These two parts are normally sold as a kit. The part number is 2651 and costs roughly $26.00 plus postage and handling if you order it on line. Repairclinic.com carries the part and can ship it directly to you. If you need step-by-step instructions on how to replace these components let me know.

Now...normally when the thermal cut out trips, it's for a reason. Make sure your exhaust ducting is clean and clear of debris, or the dryer will not operate for long. The dryer needs proper ventilation or it will overheat and trip the thermal cut-out again. You should clean the ducting about 4 times per year (once per season).

Hope this helps you.

SOURCE: Dryer won t heat 100 74732400 model

dryer element. Common problem easy repair.

SOURCE: kenmore dryer model:11060832990

sounds like start switch on motor bad.

SOURCE: Kenmore electric dryer, model 96589210 - How do I

Have you confirmed the heating element is bad? There's more to the dryer heating circuits that can cause a no heat problem besides the heating element.

If your dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will be located under the dryer drum on the right hand side.

To access the heating circuits, you will need to UNPLUG the dryer and remove the lower toe panel under the door by inserting a putty knife in the seam on the top of the tow panel, about 2 inches in from each side. This releases the retaining clips that hold the panel in place. You should be able to view the heating circuits on the right hand side under the drum.

The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare.

NOTE: Your model number is "110.96589210". Use this for your search criteria. Sears has some excellent exploded view diagrams to assist you in locating and properly identifying the parts I have described.

If you need further assistance, please post back with your complete model number (located on a nameplate around the door opening) and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

SOURCE: No heat in a Profile

The thermistor at the back of the dryer is the inlet thermistor and it has a normal resistance of around 2270 ohm at room temperature, not zero. A zero resistance means the inlet thermistor is shorted and the control board sees it as an overheating condition and does not activate the heater relay. Replace the inlet thermistor with part number WE04X10111.

The thermistor on the blower housing is the outlet thermistor and it has a normal resistance of around 10000 ohm at room temperature. The heating is good at 17 ohms and inlet safety thermostat and the high-limit thermostat on the heater housing and the outlet safety thermostat on the blower housing must all have continuity.

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