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Bruce Dunbar Posted on Oct 09, 2019
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Upon setting cycle to spin only on model WSLP1500JOWW, error LO appears even tho lid is closed. suggestions?

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Jorgie Navito

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  • Washing Mach... Master 357 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 19, 2020
Jorgie Navito
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Check lid switch wit meter


upon setting cycle to spin only on model WSLP1500J - testdoorswitch2-undefined-undefined-0.jpg

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 957 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 26, 2009

SOURCE: Stuck in Lo Range 4WD. Suggestions?

Try key in run position(without starting it) and try to shift it into 4wd high with the shift lever in neutral.

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Anonymous

  • 1606 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 02, 2009

SOURCE: Won't spin, makes clunking noise, drains fine

If it agitates fine , with normal noise , drains with lid closed , then the problem is probably the transmission .

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Aug 29, 2009

SOURCE: Roper RAL6245AW0 Washer Won't Drain or Spin

We have a Kelvinator Washing Machine that just won't drain , but fills , agitates , & spins just fine. What shall we do?

Anonymous

  • 1937 Answers
  • Posted on May 26, 2010

SOURCE: kenmore model 110 20702 991

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.20702991&pathTaken=partSearch


and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.


The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.

If it will drain but won't spin the problem is likely in the transmission. "Neutral Drain Assembly".

See the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service manual for top load direct drive washers.

WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf


Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.

When ours had a similar problem,(wouldn't spin unless we opened and closed the lid a couple of times) we looked at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) and noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.

Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.


Anonymous

  • 1937 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 13, 2011

SOURCE: I have a Kenmore Elite

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump
removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-11024952300/0582/0153200?pathTaken=&prst=0&shdMod=11024952300

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Four possibilities: (Ranging from easiest to messiest) None of the suggestions are very expensive.


Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.

If the washer still doesn't work, check the motor coupler.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the

transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or
spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.


If the motor coupler is OK, the problem could be the clutch:

Sears has a replacement clutch band kit.

See the following for how to pull the pump, motor and transmission.

You DON'T HAVE TO PULL THE AGITATORS OR TUB.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=65fc1c013d6130868b14c8bb4baf7bfd

Also see the Whirlpool / kenmore service manual for these washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Both the Motor coupler (available from most appliance parts stores) and the clutch band kit are relatively inexpensive.

See the Following Whirlpool parts list for alternatives to the Sears part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


If you've tested the Lid Switch and the Motor Coupler is fine, and the clutch bands and springs are OK the problem could well be the transmission. "Neutral Drain Assembly".

See the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service manual for transmission operations on top load direct drive washers.

WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf


Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.

When ours had a similar problem, we looked at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) and noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.

Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.

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1helpful
2answers

Error code LO

If an "L" appears upon the electronic display area of your Maytag washer, it is indicative of the washing machine's lid failing to lock properly. When an "L" error code appears, it is normally caused by one of two issues, a faulty lid locking switch, which is designed to hold the lid securely closed during the wash cycle, or a faulty lock solenoid sensor, which is designed to display a warning signal that the lid is not locked securely. Replacement of the needed part should correct the issue and the error code should disappear.

If the issue persists, there may be an issue within the machine's electronic display board that should be investigated by a Maytag approved repair technician.

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I have a Maytag Neptune TL washing machine, it runs almost all the way through they cycle but on the last spin cycle it stops and the digital display shows LO. Can you help me?

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We are getting the oL message even when we wash a light load or even run the machine empty. The machine seems to be spinning, but cuts off with the "oL" message sometime between the rinse and...

Hi

Error OL means that the washer has sensed an overload (OL) condition. It can also be a false error code appearing due to faulty lid switch. Sometimes this error code appears when lid is not closed/opened properly. You can check the lid switch for any disconnections, if the connection to lid switch is fine then use a multimeter to check the continuity of the lid switch. If the lid switch is fine then there is a piece of clothing stuck between inner basket and the outer tub. Disconnect the washer from the power outlet and then try moving the drum with your hand and check if it turns freely or is offering any resistance. If it is not moving freely then it is due to rusted drive shaft or motor. Hope this helps... Please post back if you need more assistance.

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Error OL means that the washer has sensed an overload (OL) condition. It can also be a false error code appearing due to faulty lid switch. Sometimes this error code appears when lid is not closed/opened properly. You can check the lid switch for any disconnections, if the connection to lid switch is fine then use a multimeter to check the continuity of the lid switch. If the lid switch is fine then there is a piece of clothing stuck between inner basket and the outer tub. Disconnect the washer from the power outlet and then try moving the drum with your hand and check if it turns freely or is offering any resistance. If it is not moving freely then it is due to rusted drive shaft or motor. Hope this helps... Please post back if you need more assistance.

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Found the manual for a similar model. LE error code indicates a "Lid Open" error. Most likely the little switch that is tripped when you open the lid has failed due to corrosion or some other reason. If you can find an equivalent switch then replacing it should do the trick. Otherwise, you can simply short the connection so the machine thinks that the lid is always closed. WARNING: This effectively overrides the open lid detection system and poses the risk of having the unit run a spin cycle even with the lid open! find a replacement switch if you can. good luck! just shorted mine out temporarily and it works -- until i can find the right switch.
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