Why would you lubricate a belt that relies on friction to work properly? Call the manufacturer if you feel that you need to do something to it, or if you have the owners manual, refer to that first.
SOURCE: I have a sears proform 585 treadmill.
if it is a plastic belt do not put any oil near it as that degrades it
SOURCE: Proform 765 treadmill slows down when step on. Do
Hi,
More likely time to replace the belt. Let me provide you with all the information you need. This information is already there on many websites.
BELT LOSES POWER
(Bogs Down or is Sluggish)
This condition is when the treadmill operates normally without a
person on the belt and then slows down when someone steps on the
belt or when the treadmill operates normally for a given period of time
with someone on the belt then abruptly begins to slow down.
There are four typical causes for this problem (listed in order of our
experience:
1) The walking belt and/or deck are worn. (85% of the time)
2) The walking belt and/or motor belt are too tight- if you have
adjusted either recently. (8% of the time)
3) The motor has lost torque and needs brushes or has
demagnetized. (5% of the time)
4) The controller is dropping output. (2% of the time)
Walking Belt is Worn:
The only certain way to test for a worn walking belt is to take a DC
amp draw (if you have a DC treadmill) or an AC draw (for AC). Trying
to look at the belt or a feel test is highly unreliable. Better tests, if
you lack a DC ammeter (they are expensive for a good one), are a
coast test or an incline test. To test the deck, go back to the
Troubleshooting section and download the belt and deck inspections
instructions.
The coast test is to get on the treadmill as the lowest incline setting
and walk on the treadmill at 3 MPH. Pull the safety key and it should
take you 2-3 full steps to stop (this is a general rule…some like a few
Tunturi models stop on a dime even with a healthy belt but most this
tests works well upon). Fewer steps indicate high friction.
The incline test is to put the treadmill at max incline and walk on it at
3 MPH. If the treadmill operates normally at max incline but bogs
down at minimum incline, replace the walking belt. Gravity takes over
for the drive system eliminating the friction problem. On some heavily
worn walking belts, this test will not eliminate the problem.
Walking Belt/Motor Belt too Tight:
If you have adjusted the walking belt or motor belt recently, check for
this problem. When the belts start slipping, some people just crank
down the belts and on treadmills, tighter is not necessarily better. The
tighter the belts, the more the drive system has to work to keep
everything moving. You should be able to lift the walking belt (with
the treadmill unplugged) in the center of the treadmill about 3”
without straining. Tighter belts should be loosen but make sure you
don’t create a dangerous slipping situation by loosening.
The motor belt (with the treadmill unplugged) should be able to be
turned by hand to almost a 90 degree angle from its normal operating
position. Loosen the belt if too tight. Make sure to test for slipping
and if it does with the proper tension, replace the motor belt.
Needs Brushes / Demagnetized Motor:
Typically when we find a motor that has lost torque; it needs a new set
of motor brushes. Typically we can make brushes for almost any
motor if we don’t already stock them. Motor demagnetization is not
that common but it does happen and it is normally easy to diagnose.
If you have confirmed the belt and/or deck is not worn and the belts
aren’t too tight, you can test for a motor torque problem.
DO NOT USE YOUR HAND OR ANY OTHER BODY PART TO IMPEDE THE
MOTOR…YOU WILL LIKELY LOSE YOUR BODY PART IN THE PROCESS
IF THE MOTOR IS GOOD. The step to test for the motor is to use a
foreign object preferably on a long shaft. First determine the direction
of the motor spin (most have directional movement printed on the
motor tag), then apply pressure with an object with downward
pressure on the flywheel in the direction the flywheel is turning (do not
attempt to put force against the rotating direction of the flywheel as
you can easily injure yourself). If you can slow the motor, typically
you need brush replacement.
To test for demagnetization, the motor must be disassembled. Once
you have the motor retaining bolts removed, remove the motor core
by sliding it out of the end of the housing. If the magnets pull the core
against the housing and it is difficult to remove, the magnets are good.
If the magnets do not attract the core, the motor has to be replaced.
Controller:
This
is the most uncommon of the causes. Typically replacing a controller in
this situation will not solve the underlying problem and then you will
end up replacing a belt as well as a control. Normally if a control is
dropping output, it will do it with a person on the belt or not. Tests
of DC output dropping is normal in many controls since they have a
current limiter which will automatically drop output to prevent burning
up the board. This is best diagnosed by eliminating the other possible
problems first. If you are left with the control as the cause, replace
the control.
The site :-
http://www.treadmilldoctor.com/Treadmill-Belt-Bogs-Down
Any further assistance, let me know.
Hope i helped you.
Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!
SOURCE: HOW DO I remove silicone lubricant from the
You need to be careful if you are trying to clean the belt soa s not to damage it. Use something like methylated sprit - or some other clean that does not have oil products in it. A good qulaity computer foam cleanser also works very well.
SOURCE: I have a Lifestyler 8.0 Treadmill. It keeps
Use a good silicone Spray under the belt for every 10 hours of use
SOURCE: Where can I purchase a teflon spray lubricant for treadmill?
Tunturi.com or accellfitnessna.com should have the lubricant you need. Order it online and they should be able to ship it directly to your house. I service tunturi treadmills, although I haven't come across a teflon lubricated machine, it is very important with these machines you stick with the manufacturer specified lubricants.
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