Back - light problem. Check and replace damaged component/s at its back-light inverter board, or replace this board as card basis. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Surf the site with patience. Pull up older posts. It will be best to replace the inverter board as card basis.
http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
SOURCE: Hi, i have replaced the
If the T-CON board is dead,you will see black screen (no picture) but you will see slight glow due the backlights is still on. Check the fuse and voltage on the T-CON board, dead main board will not be sending the voltage to the T-CON board.
But you are saying taht you cannot get any button on the TV to work, that will point the problem to be in the main board.
You will need service manual to really go in-depth troubleshooting.
You can download here for free: http://elektrotanya.com/?q=showresult&megnev=sony&megnev2=KLV-27HR3&kategoria=&kat2=all
Basic LCD monitor and TV troubleshooting guide:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5093881-lcd_flat_panel_tv_troubleshooting_guide
http://www.fixya.com/support/r6150077-basic_lcd_monitors_troubleshooting
http://www.fixya.com/support/r7406380-tv_training_manuals
Failed TV and Monitors pictures: http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm
Learn about bad caps: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
Parts: www.shopjimmy.com
Parts: http://interliquidparts.com/
Capacitors kit: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/Default.aspx he can make you a set of caps.
Or www.digikey.com, just make sure to use caps with low ESR, 105c, high ripple current and long life rating such as PANASONIC FM or FC series.
Please post back what you find.
Fault at its main digital board. Short circuited component/s at it. Contact any service technician; or the authorized service center. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Surf the site with patience. Pull up older posts.
http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
In most cases, the main board might have to be replaced. If so, a software [firmware] update too might be necessary.
Before going further; try a hard reset first. If it does not help you, replace the main digital board. There are two methods to reset TVs. The first is simple to do; a Hard Reset. The other is somewhat skilled; is a Factory Reset (System Reset). To make it a hard reset, just unplug the TV from AC mains wall socket, and re-plug it back after 15 minutes or so. If you do this by overnight is better. This procedure will make it a hard reset. If you want to make it a system reset [Factory Reset]; you have to enter its service mode option, and select the factory reset option. If you wish to get some details; visit the site linked here.
SOURCE: My TV is Sinotec LED 43 inch HS-2110H-00
The most common problem with backlights in an LED TV set is a failed LED. While these are supposed to last 30,000 - 50,000 hours, they are very sensitive to static electricity damage. This does not show up immediately, but after some time, the LED may flicker, then burn out, or burn out suddenly.
On many LED TV models, the backlight will come on, then turn off if one of the LED strips is bad. Test procedure: unplug the TV set, wait 10 seconds, then plug it back in (or turn off the power strip for 10 seconds if you have the TV plugged into a power strip). Darken the room, then turn on the TV while watching the screen carefully. If you see a horizontal section of the TV that is darker than the rest of the screen before the screen goes completely dark, that is where the bad LED strip is.
If none of the LEDs light up, even briefly, the problem may be a bad LED driver circuit. This is often part of the power supply board, but may be a separate board. The LED driver board is identifiable by being connected to a cable of three or more single wires (not twisted pairs or flat ribbon) going into the metal back pan of the TV, generally to the upper left side (viewed from the back). If the driver is separate from the power supply board, it will have another cable going to the power supply board..
Repairing a bad LED is labor-intensive.
1. Disconnect the TV from everything and remove the back cover. (at this point, you can plug in the set and repeat the LED test, and watch the various holes in the metal back pan to see if the LEDs flash when you turn on the set. Be very careful - there are exposed high voltage connections on the power supply board when the TV is plugged in, even if the set is off.
2. Make sure the TV is unplugged. Remove the shield from the T-Con board (at the top or bottom of the TV, centered horizontally).
3. Unlatch the flat cable connectors between the T-Con board and the edge of the LCD display.
4. Treat a section of clean carpet or large beach towel with anti-static spray, then lay it on a flat surface (make sure there are no foreign objects in this area; you don't want anything punching into the LCD). Lay the TV face down on this mat.
5. Remove the stand if it is still attached.
6. Remove all of the screws from the perimeter of the LCD. At this point, it is very desirable to have a helper. Lift the TV upright, holding it by both the front bezel and the metal back pan. Remove the front bezel (on most models it is held on by plastic tabs with hooks as well as some of the screws that were just removed).
7. Check for another set of screws that hold a rectangular steel frame or set of steel strips to the edge of the screen. Lay the TV flat again and remove these.
8. Very carefully unfold the connector strip(s) with the T-Con cables from the frame and lay them flat on the mat. Avoid any stress on the ribbons between the strips and LCD glass; if you tear or pull loose any of them, the display is ruined. Avoid touching any of the metal circuit tracing on the strips or the bare metal on the ends of the T-Con cables - static electricity discharge may damage the display.
9. Gently lift the back part of the TV (the metal pan with the circuit boards attached) off of the display. Two people are recommended for this task, especially for larger sets. On some models, it may be more workable to remove the LCD and diffuser sheets one part at a time while the TV is held upright. Make sure to keep all of the layers in the proper order, including front-side alignment, and put them on a clean lint-free surface.
10. There may be a white plastic reflector pan covering the LED strips in the back pan. The plastic is typically very thin and delicate. Carefully remove it.
11. Now you should have the LED strips exposed. At this point, you can plug in the TV and turn it on while watching the LED strips. (Caution: there are exposed high voltages on the back of the TV. Do not touch the power supply board while the TV is plugged in!) You will see the good LED strips flash while one or two strips remain dark. The bad LED is on one of the dark strips.
At this point, you have several options: 1. Replace the entire set of LED strips. If one LED has been abused (excess current or static electricity), chances are others in the set are also damaged. 2. Replace just the failed strip(s); 3. Identify and replace the bad LED; or. 4. Replace all of the LEDs in the bad strip(s). The strips are usually held in place by double-sided tape or a tacky adhesive. LED replacement requires tools for soldering surface-mount devices. If there is a circular piece of white plastic tape around the LED, carefully peel it off and save it, and likewise pull off the lens that is glued on over the LED before attempting to remove the LED.
White LEDs are blue LEDs with yellow phosphor painted on top. Blue LEDs are more vulnerable to static damage than other colors due to their strained-crystal construction. Consequently, parts with blue or white LEDs should not be handled unless electrostatic discharge safety measures are practiced.
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